TE/TC 2016 TE300 JETTING

Order the NECJ and 168 main jet.

Just fitted N8RH on 1st clip ( not 5th derrrrrrr ), so much better !! then got a 165 MJ, not a lot of difference to 170 but an improvement again, now bike only has a tiny sputter when on road when throttle is first cracked & held there, as soon as throttle is past that tiny first opening it runs really smooth & noticeable power increase now, it's the best it's ever run !! i'm on the right track now & i think the N8RH on 1st clip & 165 are my best bet for the next 2 weeks riding.

Yep tiny bit of light visible through 1 reed, looks worse in pic than it actually is
Have ordered 168
Got 2 weeks left at home before flying back to work & 2 week wait on NECJ so will order that while at work.
Didn't realise spark plugs cant be cleaned so fitted a brand new one today too

Thanks for replies & sharing knowledge & ideas everyone, much appreciated !!!

Whenever jetting keep a few extra plugs handy. Also depending on what spark arrestor you have make sure it's clean and not restricting flow. I have the PMB tHat attaches to factory exhaust. When my bike was a little fat it clogged up a bit and the bike ran awful. Finally figured it out and it was RIPPIN in no time. Although the bikes come rich from the factory always check everything else before messing with jetting in my opinion of course. If the bike gets worst and worst I wouldn't point to jetting.

Just picked up a used 16 TE300, bike was plugged up just off idle to about 1/8 throttle, then she cleaned up some and was at least rideable. Took needle out and found clip in position 4, moved to 2 and it really cleaned up. Still a bit of a bog but I haven't checked air screws or anything else yet.
Question, the need is painted red on top, which one is this? Im waiting on manual and parts that shipped with bike so I dont have any reference yet.
I need to set up for 1000 to 3000 msl and 95+ temps here.

Side note; the bike is super clean and was only owned for two weeks by an amatuer racer who wanted to do some scrambles with it. Traded bike back in for 450 because it was "more manageable". Suspension was resprung which is good for me. Nothing else done except I noticed the power valve was screwed in almost all the way, pulled it and found green spring hiding inside. When I got the bike home and before I messed with needle, I got some room to open it up and it had a brutal hit right about 1/8 throttle, right where the bogging cleaned up, the hit was really big and instant. It was not manageable at all with throttle. I think I got lucky here, the salesman that sold me the bike also sold the original guy his bikes. I think the bike scared the scrambler and he never got to race it.

Probably a JD needle.....

Screw the adjuster on p/v out close to flush that'll help the hit

Wont that make the hit come on sooner? The hit is now is much better than before needle adjustment.

Smoother just take it out little by little...

Yes i agree on 38pj instead of 35.
JD has main at 162, 170 is too rich.
Red needle 4th.
Summer time at 0-3000ft

Red needle and 4th clip, I must have the JD, dam I wish I had instructions on it.

I have the instructions, what do you need?

I alw

i always was understoôd spring that is light (red) it opens quicker and hard hit, and bigger (green) or tighter (in) then it holds back valve from opening soon or hard. So preload winds spring tighter and out loosens spring. Loosen is like change to light spring in a small sense right? So out on preload opens sooner, right?
Does tight mean harder hit once open or lighter (whether color or winding it or loosening it)??

Thanks, i need to see what they have installed, this will help. if they put a 38 in the pilot maybe all i need to do is drop the 35 back in.

Depends on bike year and temp and elev. but, jd says 38pj

2016 up to 3000 ft and 95+ temps

Yes! Same as mine

i have a 162 main, 38 pilot. needle in third now. needle is red where your chart shows it should be blue...

Step 4 for 0-3000 is red4

Then adjust airscrew. Warm up bike after riding it, then adjust idle down low, turn airscrew in til you hear first change, then turn out 1 full turn. If it doesnt help remember you can go in at most half turn from all in and up to 3 turn max out before rejet concern. These 4t are diif than say a YZ450 on wide airscrew adjustment range (my opinion)

brought air screw out 2 1/2 from 1, pv set 1 turn in from flush, red needle still at 3. runs way better, still a very little stumble when cracking throttle. Ill drop the clip to 4 to lean it a bit more. Im on the right track, thank you!

try it on your bike, red is smoother just more power available earlier, the other springs hold back the power, the doly screw adjust slightly when the PV starts to open the coloured springs adjust when its fully open, adjust away, so many people claim flush on doly, every time i do that on both my bikes from 2011 onwards it is slower to pick up, its easy to feel