TE/TC 2016 TE300 JETTING

+ 1

I actually think I'm starting to understand this!

struggling with my 2016's jetting.

Running 50:1

the dealership i bought it from set up the carb with a
- 170 main
- 38 Pilot
and a NECK needle on the third clip.

at 385 meters (1250 ft) elevation.

it seemed rich with spooge coming out of the silencer and power cut off when twisting past half throttle.

I swapped the needle for a N8RH and set it on 3rd clip. This smoothed out the power cutting off past half throttle. problem is i have never jetted a two stroke in my life and feel as though the 300 has more to offer but i just don't know how to get it dialed in. very frustrating.

If its past half throttle you're looking at the needle and overlapping into the main jet...I would run the 168 Main Jet and your NECK needle again and see how it feels...if its still feels rich ( slight splutter ) than raise the clip ( drop the needle ) and try again

My 2016 TE 300 is running 168 Main, 38 Pilot, Air screw 1 3/4 out , NECK 3rd clip. I run 40:1 motul and get only a little spooge out the tail pipe. Looking at my plug I'm still a tad rich . Im a 0-300 mtrs elevation , temp around 20'C
Have you also checked what power valve spring you have in? The green spring does make the bike feel like its being held back slightly.

Well I have gone from:
Pilot: 35
Main: 178
Needle: N8RG 3rd clip
Air screw 1.75 out

To this:

Pilot 35
Main 168
Needle NECJ 3rd clip
Air screw 2 turns


And wow! the bike is so much smoother/crisper, now holds revs lovely on road work, it was like a yoyo before!

The revs are just hanging up a bit what would help with this?

Revs hanging up means something is tad lean....I would put in a 38 pilot as I found the 35 was too lean and I had a lean bog when chopping the throttle.
Unfortunately jetting is trial and error , you need to try and see at what throttle position the revs are hanging ....Your jetting now should be pretty close though .

Thanks for the reply. Tried putting the neck back in have it on second clip from the top with 168 main. Runs substantially better past quarter throttle all the way to full but now I have off idle bog when twisting the throttle quickly... figured it was rich but was running the 35 pilot. Temps get pretty hot in Penticton where I'm at. 30 degrees is common in the summer. The air adjust screw seems to have no effect on either the 35 or 38 pilot! I'm pulling my hair out at this point! Either runs great at 0 to a quarter throttle with crap full throttle or the other way around. Can't seem to get best of both worlds.

Not sure how to edit my previous post but seems like it was actually a lean bog running a 35 pilot jet. going out tomorrow to see if i can dial it on the 38 pilot.

385 meters and up
20+ degrees.

Just put in same needle and clip position but 170 main as opposed to 168 which is smallest that came with bike. What characteristics should I feel if need to go to 168? Ride between 600 and 1600 ft. In high 80s at most.

Not ridden it since change.

Will try a 38 but bike much better

38 pilot will cure the bog..i thought it was a rich condition but its lean

lean is a stutter, rich is bog then a power rush as the unburnt fuel over laps into next circuit most noticeable in the low end
lean on main rev out fast then stops peak rev are found quickly
rich on main slower to rev out can stutter if way rich
perfect is rev out nearly as quick as lean but over rev a little and takes i little more time to max out, and sounds deeper less tinny at max rev's
needles are harder to work out always try same needle clip leaner then richer and ride same section of trail, only buy going both ways can you feel which is correct way to go
handing idle if pilot is correct size its the needle diameter, go next step up
half clip needles are great to fine tune.

Right bike is running sweet with a 168 main and 38 pilot. I haven't really noticed any difference between the 38 and 35 pilot when running but find the 38 pilot has made it a little harder to start when cold?

Lust ordered the 168 main as opposed to 170. What characteristics should I look for to know that it is correct/better than the 170? (Asked back in post 108 but no reply)
Any advice would be appreciated as to what to look for in comparing the main.

I did ride the bike last Sunday with Red Spring in and the Suzuki needle as referenced above with 38 pilot and 70 Main (first ride since re-jetting). Ran the red spring about 2 turns in. Funniest thing I noticed was a marked difference in the switch position , previously could not tell much diff. Bike felt like a dog until I put it on the hot map. Could have been that the bike was not properly warmed up when I had it on the soft map but it felt sluggish and did not have any top end until I changed the map switch later in the day. At first I thought I had made a bad mistake changing up my jetting, but by the end of the day could tell that the bike was smoother throughout. Was 1,600 Ft above Sea level and around 80 degrees by the way.
Felt like the bike was pulling strong down low straight through the power band without the "hit".

I am copying my post above.....

"Just put in same needle and clip position but 170 main as opposed to 168 which is smallest that came with bike. What characteristics should I feel if need to go to 168? Ride between 600 and 1600 ft. In high 80s at most.

Not ridden it since change."

Which is soft map? 1 or 2?

Not this again!

Quoting Tetley from the "Decoding the map switch" thread........

"The hard map is switched by joining the map wires together, and the soft map by disconnecting them. If the OEM map switch is wired in, position 1 joins the circuit for a hard map, and position 2 breaks the circuit for a soft map. I have tested and verified this with a test meter."

I told my self I was not going to get into this But after 6 pages of talk I just said I do not understand
I took my 2016 TE 300 jetted it like it said in the book and bingo. It works great in fact it works great everywhere From below sea level to over 5,000 feet no problem from cold around 35 to high just over 100
From super slow like King of the Moto to high speed Desert like the Nationals Hare and Hounds. I have raced it in 4 western states from desert to trees. Next time I clean the carb I will write down what is inside it but I can tell you for me it works. See no reason to change a thing
Must be the 100 plus octane race gas mixed 50 to one with Lucas

Your just not over thinking it

That wr you bought from me has been everywhere and runs perfect have the same carb and setting on my 2010 WR with CR electronics also and it runs great everywhere to

Road the bike with the new jetting Sunday. I was at 1,600 Ft and around 85 at the highest temp.
Flowing Double track and single track with roots and rocks.

I have the suz NECJ needle 3rd clip
168 Main
38 pilot
Air Screw about 1.5 or 1.75
Was running red spring

Two observations
1. Power rolled through the power band without a discernible hit just pulled striaght through.
2. Gas consumption seemed to improve. I road 27 miles and was very surprised at the fuel height left in the bike. More than usual with same mileage.

Very happy with the setup. However I think that I am going to go back to yellow spring, I looped the bike once on an uphill after hitting a rock and lofting the front. I grabbed a bit too much throttle. Had a low side/front end wash as well which has nothing to do with jetting but my ribs are sore!

Will call it good on jetting at this point, the original jetting from factory was not that bad, but this setup has taken it to the next level. Glad I found the tread and decided to experiment! Figured I could always go back to stock easy enough.