TE/TC 2017 TX300 Spring Rate Chart +

Put all your gear on that you normally ride with, including camel back half full or full (if you ride with one), tools if you carry them, and then weigh yourself and reference the manual for which spring rate is required.

Anyone else seen this? I got a heavier WP spring that matches the spec in the manual in length, 247mm, but the one that came on the bike was an old style 260mm spring. The article number on the shock matches the manual but the adjustment ring is basically buried on the threads. Also the manual specs for rear spring rates seem light. 48N/mm is sub 30mm static sag for someone 209lbs. Something doesn't add up.

Now that you say this, I wished I measured the two, but I got the heavier spring as well and really had to crank down to get the right sag. Didn't even think it may be shorter in length. Wish I had an answer.

The shock settings are taken and extrapolated from the manual and also do conveniently match WP engineering chart (info directly from WP engineering).
Fill in for the AER forks WP 4860 MXMA, 9.4 bar for 65-75 kg riders and 9.8 for 85-95 kg riders, so as logically expected WP calls out .2 bar increases per rider weight range
The WP engineering spec only lists the standard and one setting to each side of standard.
Oh and to answer this question. KTM XC250/300 and TX300 have the exact same shock and fork spec inside and out.

FILLED IN THE BLANKS

I guess the factory spring lengths have been changed to 260mm for the TXs, which is why my bike came factory with a 260mm spring. All the 247mm spring part numbers have been superseded by 260mm spring length part numbers at the dealer level. Not sure if the same spring rate to weight chart applies any longer.

both springs I have measure to 260mm both are WP OEM springs, 1 came off the bike the other was dealer ordered and is now on the bike. Incidentally I installed the the 48 rear spring with 7mm of preload my static is at 35mm my race sag is at 108, I will add a little more preload I want to see 105. that bike handled so much better today. I started off with 10 bar went to 9.7 and made a noticeable difference as well , Im very pleased with these forks. I was testing so I was doing on purpose stupid stuff and unnecessary lines to get a feel for the bike.

Oh and I did not realize the X-Trig needs the lower shock assy removed from the shaft to install it, so I will have my suspensssssion tech install it soon

FYI, I have over 10 hours on the new 5.0/50 rear spring. During my last ride, the steering was feeling like the head angle was way too slack. And I was having trouble setting the air pressure on the forks. Somehow I got 156 psi in there. It was odd because the pump would read by as much as 5 psi different depending on how I positioned it. And last week I was also having trouble with deflection up front.

I got tired of having to rely on people to help with checking sag, so I bought a Slacker Digital sag scale. I checked the rear sag straight off on Saturday because I could feel the bike was riding low in the rear. I was at 125mm rear sag. So I I set it to 105 and got exactly 35mm static! Yay! Then at the trail head I checked the pressure in the forks. That's when I discovered the 156 psi. I was able to hold the pump steady, and hold the plunger and bleed-off the extra psi to 148. I also added 2 more clicks of front rebound.

So I weigh 215 without gear, gear + water is about 20 lbs.
I'm at 148 psi with 8 clicks comp, and 8 clicks reb on the front.
5.0 rear spring with perfect sag numbers, 1.75 to 1.5 turns on HSC and 15 clicks of LSC and rebound is at 13 clicks.
The bike feels more level when riding it, the the front and rear are pretty balanced in terms of stiffness and conforming to the terrain.
I ride slow, probably a lot slower than a lot of you guys, so the 148 psi up front is good for me.
But, here's the thing, our terrain is made of a lot of hard pack red clay dirt, and at this time of the year it's covered with 2 inches of red powder fine dust. With intermixed embedded and loose rocks of all sizes from pebbles to babies heads.
With these settings, all deflection front/rear is pretty much gone. The bike stays glued to the ground on dust covered turns, and rocks, roots, pot holes don't seem to send it off course too bad while railing turns. I can run straight down rock gardens without puckering my butt hole like I was at first.

I was a little off-put by the forks at first, but spending the last 6 or so rides riding alone and experimenting with psi/setting has made me realize that these are probably the best forks I've had on any of my bikes. I really like the fact that the clickers on both the forks and shock are so sensitive -- and they actually make a noticeable difference.

great input Ken. Its good to hear from all over and at all rider levels. I found that the AER 48s are really good and do really respond a lot to incremental changes, they are interestingly amazing for me up til now. I will check my pressure again before next ride. I liked the 9.7 bar, but I just added the fatty front with a mousse so the front is heavier on unsprung weight so it will most likely like some sort of adjustment, I just gotta figure what!!!

9.7 bar is still my magic number, I did put 1 more turn into shock preload, it is as close to perfect as need for now. I pounded out some section yesterday and thing worked great. It really loved when I rode in Euro Enduro position (think Wattsy) over the front let the rear follow, very little rear brake, lots of front to pivot around the front. this bike is most excellent.

my new number fits right into the chart @ 10bar but with very open comp clickers. the thing stays up in its travel as it should but reacts well when it needs it, much more stable up front and much better balance.

Just put on my new 52 nm last nite. The sag numbers for my 215lb carcass are right on. Cam.

Interesting how much better the bike steers with the proper spring on the back. Cam.