All 2st 250 or 300... YZ or WR?

That is defiantly from getting to hot, I run evans coolant,It will help prevent this.......Ya I was at Parker,but not racing. I was in a boot with a broken heel from someone hitting me head on, on 79.

you don't necessarily need the jd kit,His needles are way to rich.. 45pj 172mj CEL 3clip and you will be real close

I'm off to the classifieds

I could start my wr 300 sitting down without much effort in 3 kicks with the Lectron.

I've had three YZ250s. An 03 04 and a 07. The first two were not usable on technical trail. The 07 had a Rekluse on it. Completely different bike motor wise - very useful on technical trail. Easy easy, very easy to start. Like clockwork. My WR300 with TMX (and JD) is hard to start when cold. However, the WR300 handles better, turns better, has better brakes, fits me better (I'm 6'2"), has more chug, an excellent kickstand (IMO ), looks better, is heavier (only noticeable when not moving), starts poorly compared to the YZ, but comes outfitted with good off road stuff like the 18 rear/woods valved suspension/torque emphasis motor/stator/kickstand/axle pulls/tool less airbox/etc. It's up to you but I'd prolly add a RM250 or Honda CR250 to the list if you like a good handling bike like the Husky.

two to three kicks max on my 09 300 ever. Doesn't matter how long its been sitting. Always fires that quick when cold, First kick when warm. I kick in gear and neutral, don't matter. I think in 4 yrs with this bike maybe twice it took more than 4 -5 kicks. One of those times I had a stuck float leaking gas like a civ. Seriously.
I never just "kick" the thing though. I am extremely anal about getting it TDC though then giving one hearty kick. Have a keihin 38 cab if it matters

Re. The CR250...
I've always been told the engine of the late model cr is too peaky and aggressive for trail and bush riding? So I sort of ruled them out...

if you registering it no choice but the WR eh? no rec reg in NSW yet is there? should be able to pick up a cheap run out wr250/300 if theres any left. yz be good with fww, lectron, susp work, bigger tank, gearing altered & maybe pipe/silencer for bottom end. 19" wheel here nor there imho. wr with lectron sweet also-& less to spend aftermarket on it!

Idle speed doesn't change when adjusting a/s. It only idles smoother or rougher.

Any thoughts on a RM250 2T for a woods bike? Found a deal on one locally...

See this post:

It would need the typical woods-conversion stuff, but there is no reason that any of the 2T 250 bikes can't be made into a good woods bike. Pipe, flywheel weight, revalve, handguards, skidplate, let 'er rip.

The last few years of the RM the motor was basically a YZ clone. The chassis is great for the tight stuff. I wish they still made them.

I guess a KDX 220 should prolly be in the conversation too? Tough to find them and when I see them they want a bundle. Although the suspension seems to be sub par by today's standards.

KDX suspension is old school but can be made to work well in the woods. Their biggest challenge is outdated ergonomics. I had one and it was a great bike, awesome motor and good gearbox, but you can't get up on the tank like you can on a modern bike and it makes it hard to ride fast (or it did for me).

Any Japanese 250 2T will make a good woods bike with some work, IMO. I bought my WR300 because it was way cheaper than buying a new YZ/RM/CR/KX, and because it came with a license plate (a big deal for me). A screaming deal on a brand new bike that was almost exactly what I needed out of the box (plated enduro/trail bike) was impossible to pass up.

If you don't need lights and a plate, and you're going to buy used, just get whatever bikes you can get for cheapest. I would definitely include the Husky 125/250/300 models in my search, but I wouldn't stop there either.

For an 05-07 Honda CR250 read this long thread at TT

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/941288-new-07-cr250/

For the 02-04 just set the squish band and toss the TMX carburetor in the trash. They are very good handling bikes. Good suspesnion and brakes too. I was too cheap and didn't swap my carb. Rode a friends 07 with carb, milled base, porting, suspension mods, and it was great and very accurate for technical riding.

More related to Honda CR250 setup:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1072710-buying-a-cr250/

Some require less work than others. For example the 2004 KX250. Total tractor motor. Huge torque. Needs suspension mods for sure. Weak brakes. Small ergos for shrek types like me.

I've had a long time desire to basically have one of each KX, CR, YZ and RM 250 2t woods bikes. I am always on the lookout for a bike that needs a total rebuild that I can pick up cheap enough to be worth it. Add these 3 to my WR300 and already owned KX 250 and I'd be set.

I have an 07 WR250 converted to 300 and with the PWK it was 3 kicks cold or warm. When you get tired 3 kicks are no fun, for me anyway. I bought a Lectron mounted it and then it was 1 kick cold and 2 kicks warm. Every time. Then something as simple as moving the kicker back one spline and I find it to be a 1 kicker now. Much easier to start. Go figure, I've read about that on here and thought no way. Trust me, made a big difference, for me anyway.
I do have the PWK that I took off. If you wanted to get it shipped there and try it you could, only thing is I want it back.
Oh yea since I bought the CR125 it's always one easy kick and Braaaappp. Yea I've drank the cool aid LOL.