310R popping & hard start

I'll be heading over to see them soon with my son's 2013 TE250R.
It is hard to get to idle cold and has a flat spot once warm

Let us know what they find out- I'm kinda curious.

Me too.

Today, Went for short ride for warm-up. Then did the WD40 air leak test, then with tested with starting fluid. Sprayed them around intake manifold & throttle body. No change in the idle speed. Idle is still the same lumpy 8 stroking idle. No popping here at lower (2700') elevation.

Have not yet had bike at higher elevation & popping to try the loose fuel cap test. It is easy to blow or suck air both ways thru the cap vent hose, so I don't think there is fuel starvation due to vacuum / plugged vent.

Perhaps next try will be MAP sensor, or water temp sensor.

water temp sensor first (CTS). I've never heard of a MAP sensor going bad... but who knows? have you checked your cold start knob? maybe get a video going of your idle & the popping sound.

gas cap: I agree, it's good- if you tested the vent hose while on the cap.

Cold start knob is the book recommended 34 clicks out, & pushed in to run.

sounds good. have you tired 36 clicks- any improvement?

I have not tried diff't knob settings, assuming that it is only a throttle stop. Does it affect idle mixture instead? (turn in for leaner, out for richer?)

I have no idea how it works in either cold start or idle adjust mode. someone explained it to me once, but I didn't get it. I am reasonably certain is not a throttle stop adjustment. BTW, the WSM is wrong on the direction (CW/CCW) if memory serves me correctly.

OTOH, we're talking about turning a knob 2 clicks... which is way easier than reading/writing about it.

"Just do it"

Hi
My bike hardly runs at stock idle setting, it tried to hop of the stand.. I just continued out until it was good cold and hot.
45 clicks now... I may have some other problems, setting valve clearance and updating ECU right now... Just wanted to let you know

The choke/idle screw will affect idle and helps at high elevations to keep the bike idling and not stalling. Open it counter clockwise 4 clicks for high elevations and the bike should idle faster and help a bit to keep from stalling with a closed throttle and descending at elevation. Doing this to me means these bikes run slightly rich on powered up maps at 0-15% throttle. Correlates to hot starting issues too. Why the PCV took care of this issue for me and allows me to crack the throttle a tad during hot starts at elevation as it leaned out fueling below 15% throttle by 9-20%. Map 3 is good at sea level and up to 6500 feet but not perfect. Cost to get the bike spot on if you are handy is $2-300 for the pcv and a download of 2 maps. Any simple bar switch can manage map switching on it and easy to edit maps trailside with usb connectivity to any Windows device.

sounds like injector clogging.

In Vic. Qld is a bit far . I have replaced my engine temp sensor. Heading out for a ride tomorrow

Well the temp sensor has made an improvement. Doesn't pop anywhere near as much anymore.

Idling issues (hunting randomly) and hard estart still occur only when the bike is quite hot (single trail 1st/2nd gear). Oddly enough it kicks first go when hot but hunts up and down idling. The fan does come on and if i let the bike cool down (switched off) for a few minutes the idling returns to normal. One of the times it stalled when hot and starting it back up the fuel light came on (tank was close to full) but then switched off a minute or so later.

Anyone had issues with heat and the injector?

Wrap your fuel line in heat shield then re install the spiral plastic wrap over it.

Also, line the whole bottom of tank and area behind radiators with heat shield.

Also, pull starter off and wrap engine side of it about 3/4 way around starter.

Run XF coolant as well.

All these work wonders and every once and while, take your injector out to clean it.

Went out on first ride since last post. Gained elevation - 2600 to above 7000. Bike starts to pop on decel & has hard start issue. Tried loosening gas cap & tighten to let it vent any pressure difference. No change. Turned idle knob out 4 clicks. If anything, popping increases. Does not start easily. Try in 3 clicks from original position. Idle gets slower, but smoother, popping decel remains. With slower idle, bike dies on slow downhill trails. Rekluse disengages. Can't bump start. Will not e-start easily. Kick start. Fun. I am back at the standard 34 clicks out.

So, next on the remedy list are fuel tank / engine heat insulation and new water temp sensor. Then I may need to learn up on injection system mapping and try that. New stuff for me.

this is good, solid info (minor point: get out & ride a bit more). The CTS should be next.

I feel a little remiss but I guess I should be stating that I *assumed* that your bike has had the necessary mods to make it run normal after delivery (TXC air filter cage, velocity stack cut, ECU reprogrammed). Actually, I remember you saying that your bike is fast enough that you didn't want to give it full throttle- which probably indicates this stuff has been done (because it takes the bike from an estimated 22hp to an estimated 39hp). Can you confirm that these standard mods have been done? oops- read your first post; looks like it's all been done.

e-start: I hafta crack my throttle slightly in the summer or with a warm engine, and it takes 4 revolutions. When it's cold and with the cold-start out: practically jumps alive after 1/2 a rev. Either way it idles fine with no hunting.

so the CTS should be next; but Robert brought up a good point by mentioning a clogged injector. I'm no FI expert, but it seems to me that low rpm/idle and starting are affected more than high rpm or altitudes... but it's a semi-easy check (take out the injector and look for a good spray pattern). And since you mention that the popping is fairly new behavior, a bad injector makes a bit of sense.

keeps us updated.

Pardon my FI inexperience: Do I remove the injector and hit the starter to check the spray pattern? If clogged, replace it or clean with solvent?

starter: yeah, I think that's how I'd do it. in a container maybe... and a fire extinguisher nearby.

inspect the injector first though.

carb cleaner has been used successfully for cleaning an injector. If it is clogged, there are many videos of people soaking 'em in carb cleaner; then filling 'em up with carb cleaner, pressurizing 'em (sometimes by using the carb cleaner can), and then using a 9v battery to open/close/open/close the injector. I've have never done it.

Hi,

Just reporting back. After replacing a number of sensors a new injector fixed my issues. Popping is gone and the bike starts heaps better from hot. It's really strange as the bike was fine cold. Anyway hope the info helps others

-Daniel