449/511 Breather hose mod

You guys understand yet , just like the picture doggys

Don't make me have a few beers and explain it all over again lol

I had to have a few beers to understand it!

Uploading test videos shortly.

Did some testing , treated her like she was abducted by aliens.... Hope these vids help in the engineering process . Will she hold 2000cc ?? I had fun finding out


View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcGi8AiF49I&feature=youtube_gdata_player



View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dbm-jltX4vk&feature=youtube_gdata_player



View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tS0k-UeoSSk&feature=youtube_gdata_player


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRlrdJ37src&feature=youtube_gdata_player

I have like 5 more vids . This is what uploaded tonight.

2000cc in the engine !


View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jpKcfEIWCyw&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Here is the oil fill plug designed for the oil recovery system.
http://www.ziptyracing.com/husqvarna-oil-fill-plug-for-oil-return-mod-2011-2013-tc-te-txc-smr-449-511/

You will have to drill and tap threads into it, use RapidTap for better threads. Pick up a threaded brass hose barb at Home Depot and use Loctite instead of teflon tape.

I'm not sure if we sell an oil drain plug, I will have to check thread sizes. If not, Clay does, although you will have to remove the magnet I believe or he may have stock without magnets?

Wow, I've never seen 2000cc's of oil in!

Oh and Mobil1 0w-40 Euro Formula has the exact same shear strength as Motorex 10w-40, one viscosity weight higher than Castrol 10w-40 Racing 4t and will actually make the engine run cooler. I have ran it at 106°F across Lucerne Valley with zero issues.

If I make a system I will have mine moded. Will drill threw the Allen hole leaving enouph wrench thread for the Allen to bit then tig or heliarc a bunk on it. Are the threads on the cap same as drain ? Looks like a square drive.... No oil out the breather after system warmed up. At one point when the engine was cooler I got a good flow out the breather with 1600cc in but could not replicate it again later on even with 2000cc.

I have some good video for this coment will up load it tonight, off to santafe springs now !

I don't care for the oil return being so close to my shifter , it seems like a really vulnerable area. You mentioned your system seemed to vunel it between the fill cap and breather if I understood you correctly and that is your reason for wanting to do a valve cover ? During my tests I concerned that the breather plays a key roll in the way oil circulates threw the motor. I think that any oil build up in the breather will lead to the breather system cycling oil. Straight sloped tubing should be used so oil run off in the breather line stays free flowing and the oil return line should aswell be sloped for good drainage and minimal bends... Also I think 2000cc is a bit much so I think 1600 is a safer capacity. I'm going to get that fill cap and scratch the drain plug barb. I like the right side mounting hole that's perfect for mounting the tank.

Yes, and it is unnecessary. Remember that the oil storage on the right is connected to the oil storage in the center rear which is also connected to the drain plug. So when increasing crankcase capacity, it makes no difference to come off the drain plug, the fill plug or a custom plug.

No, the reason to have the breather in the valve cover is so that you can raise oil levels to the point that they submerge the torque limiter with oil. This will keep it cool and reduce failure due to excessive heat. When submerged, the torque limiter passes oil, because it is the opening of the stock breather point. By changing the breather point to the valve cover, this over heating can be eliminated.

What I saw happening in your videos was you plugging the breather hole. Naturally this will increase the internal pressures of the crankcase and force oil out. Other than that, the breather does not control oil flow in the Kymco engine.

Remember that the Kymco engine is a Dry Sump. This means that no matter how much oil is stored in it's crankcase, the oil in the crankshaft area will remain the same. In fact, one of the two Eaton oil pumps is devoted to removing oil from the crankshaft area and returning it to the pressurized flow. You may continue to add the extra oil as long as it has somewhere to go during expansion. Now obviously you do not wish it to expand too far up the timing chain cavity, but that area is available for expansion, IF you have the valve cover breather modification.

I spoke to Ty yesterday about the crankcase breather bottles which we will be producing. Lead time will be about four weeks away due to other projects lined up ahead of schedule. These breathers will be aluminum, billet, extremely light weight, red anodized and laser etched.

If you think you may be interested in one of these breathers, please PM me so that we can get an accurate estimation on the production run. I will make every attempt possible to coordinate the sale of these items through existing Cafe Husky sponsors.

Thanks Tinken , I think I will just make a breather bottle that takes the blow by fluid out and run the return to the fill cap and fill it up with 1600cc.... You are very helpful

Depends on it's internal design and cost. Were does it bolt ?

It bolts onto the exhaust side like my current breather bottle. Ty mentioned making oil fill plugs which already have the hose adapter installed and swivel. Not sure on eta for that.

1879cc is the most I have ever seen in a oil cooled Dakar bike with the Kymco engine. What did the engine run like with 2000cc's of oil?

Might be interested, depends on cost, and how fiddly it is to install. Oh and how red/shiney it is.....