449/511 communication with ECU

Not much that you can feel on the bike.
My 449 has a 511 ECU fitted.

The dealer fitted it while still under warranty trying (unsuccessfully) to fix my flameout/stalling/running on issues.
These were all fixed by me later when out of warranty.
I wasn't aware of the ecu change until I was looking at the part numbers one day.

Version 2.9 is online, some maps for 449/511 are available here https://app.box.com/shared/pusg6v7nyd or on www.tuneecu.com later.

Purchased all the gear online today, downloaded the App. Can't wait to have a play when everything arrives. Big thanks to you guys for doing all the hard yards.

-Craig

Thanks, loaded map set 3 last night, will see how it goes today.

Thank you again for your efforts.

Much respect.

Tried someone to conect 2011 TE449 ECU usin maya software? Is it possible to load Map 3 using it?

Could someone please inform me which one is map3 for SMR511?

S61BD1B0_A00Map
S61BD0C0_A00Map
S61BD0B0_A00Map

Thanks.

Think its S61BD1B0_A00Map.hex ?

Have not been able to connect via bluetooth to either of my adapters.
I've now ordered a corded adapter to micro USB.
Hoping this will be the answer.
Can't wait to see live data.

All my pieces have arrived today, but it will be mid next week before I get a chance to test it out.

Ok guys, so what pins do I connect from the female ODB2 connector to the 6 Pin Econoseal connector?

Thanks in advance!

I found this for you, back in post #91:

BTW, I found for my CCM GP450 that I had to link 6 and 4 on the diagnostics connector to upload maps. Without that link the ECU relay drops power whenthe ECU prepares itself for the reprogramming. I suggest you just use 6 for positive; if you do try to upload a map and you lose connectivity, then try linking 4 and 6.

So I've been playing with my TE449 now that I have all the bits to connect to TuneECU - bike state is as follows:

• 2011 UK Model, with Factory Akra pipe
• Running Map-Set3 - uploaded using TuneECU, was previously runnning the standard Race-Map2 setup
• Jumper in, running powered up
• Secondary butterfly removed, but cam still in place - has been like this for a few years now.
• TPS voltage measured at 0.72v

I'm finding a little bit of a shortage of tractability low down in the revs, it's still quite easy to stall at very low throttle openings.
I've tried a couple of interesting things through TuneECU.
With the engine cold, taking the TPS voltage, I had a reading of 0.72v at closed throttle. I thought I would disable the 2nd butterfly in the software, which I did, it was the only change I made, and then the bike ran really roughly and the closed TPS voltage was suddenly 0.64v. I took the throttle cam cover off to take a look at what was actually happening and when the 2nd butterfly was enabled, the little cam was holding the throttle a touch open, off the end stop. So basically my "true" closed TPS voltage is 0.64v, which I think is a bit low.
In the manual and all the blurb online the recommendation is for a TPS voltage of around 0.7v, is that when the manual butterfly is genuinely properly closed, or when the ECU is holding the throttle a touch open at a fast idle from a cold start? I'm thinking that if I warmed things right up, maybe the cam would move back and not hold the butterfly open so could set the TPS voltage up to 0.7v when hot, or I could disable the 2nd butterfly in the software to move it right out of the way, then set the voltage to 0.7v cold, but on a definitely closed throttle, then re-enable the butterfly in the software. I would then expect a cold start idle TPS voltage to be something over 0.7v, maybe approaching 0.8v, which I think might have the effect of richening things up a touch at idle, and maybe helping the low throttle behavior.
Once I have got the idle running where I want it, I am thinking that I could put the secondary butterfly back in to smoothen up the response - I like the snap that I get without it, but I wonder if having that second butterfly might be more useful for when I want to gently chug around more technical terrain, that is something I do more often than need to loft the front.
Thoughts from the great online massive?

Hi Padowan,

I know this post is a little old now, but I have not been on here for a while. Good info in your post. Looks like you have been testing and learning things along the way. To answer your question- With Map 3 loaded, TPS set at 0.7v, cam pin removed, 2nd TB removed, my bike is like an old 80's style XR600. It just tractors over the slow stuff, and the engine braking is absolutely awesome. When I got rid of the hanging idle, I felt like I was going over the handle bars each time I lifted off. But now that I'm used to it, I find it awesome on steep downhill stuff. To possibly help with "off idle" stalling, especially on really slow rocky crawling sort of stuff, I took Dangermouses advice and lifted the idle (hot) setting up near 2000 rpm. I was doubtful at first but tried it and it really helped heaps

Padowan,
A great bit of detective work there
Indeed, with the second butterfly cam still in play, you will get different primary TPS readings.
I believe this is one of the reasons these bikes have so much trouble a the bottom end of the throttle range.
There's too much going on with constant idle position corrections and changes to different fuel cells in the map.
Good on you for trying different things and looking further.

Putting the butterfly back in would be a mistake in my opinion, it's a REALLY silly item that offers nothing to the running of the engine.
As Crankz mentioned, raising the idle speed helps a lot (1900 factory) 2000 or even 2100 helps a lot.
- The effective flywheel effect changes on these engines when you pull in the clutch, as it is on the end of the crank.

It will be hard, as you have discovered, to get a proper base TPS value because of the idle cam.
I would disable the motor (Very clever by the way ) and set up your idle speed and TPS voltage from there.

For the record, my own bike will lug very low in the rpm.
- Akro Racing Map
- TPS 0.75v
- Akro slip-on
- no 2nd butterfly
- no idle cam

Keenan, how did you get it working in the end? I have pins 4 and 6 linked and get no joy (PC and tablet, key on or off). On the PC it repeatedly tries to connect but cant complete and using tablet it keeps asking to connect via bluetooth even tho i have the cable connected??? TIA

The PC verdion will not work on our models. TuneECU gave up with MS Windows before adding them in in. That leaves the Andoid version only to conect to the Husky/CCM/BMW ECUs.
Your Android tablet must support OTG on the USB port, and you need a USB/OTG connector.
If you have that and a suitable OBD-USB cable, then start TuneECU and connect the cable, but do nit connect it to the bike. TuneECU should se the cable and try to connect to it. Your Andoid IS should ask open a message box to ask you if it shoukd allow this. If that does not happen then there is a problem with the cable, OTG connector or the port it is plugged into.
If the cable is recognised by TuneECU, now is the time to connect it the bike, turn Ign on and in TuneECU make sure you are on map oage then tap "ECU" then "Connect". It should be teying to use the cable first. If it ask about bkuetooth then the cable connection has been lost. I had some cheap and expensive OTG connectors that were either useless or unreliable. In the end one of the cheaoest from EBay was the most reliable.
If all the above works and TuneECU is trying to connect you should see a small rectangle in the lower right corner flashing irregularly in red. It can take over 5 minutes for TuneECU to establish a connection, so let it run.
I foubd that the cable and TuneECU need to be connected furst, before connecting to the bike. Also, each you upgrade TuneECU the cache needs to be cleared and you have to go through the long wait until it conects. Once that has been done TuneECU will cache the information.

As mentioned above, the PC version does not support the 449-511 models.
Disable Bluetooth on your Android device and connect via the cable.
Be aware that some OBDII devices will not be recognised by the system (I tried 2 x units unsuccessfully before buying the Lonelec OBD as linked from the TuneEcu page)

Hi all,

finally I decided to buy the Equipment from lonelec and the Android TuneECU app.
I planned to investigate the recently appeared "fail" message and maybe upgrade to Map3.

Connecting was plug and Play.
Following questions came up:
1. Comparison of my readout stock-map and the Standard-map from tuneecu.com:
Tables are the same. But the hex-files differ. Any explanation for that?
2. Comparison of the Standard-map and the Akrapovic-map, both from tuneecu.com:
F(1) and I(1) map are the same as expected.
In L(1) there is a difference in the headline, Standard has smallest pressure 180 hPa whereas Akra has smallest 240 hPa; but the data values below are the same.
Any explanation for that?
3. Has anybody experience with error codes of the ECU?

Thanks!
Best regards,
Florian