449/511 ignition ground

Regarding the ground wire, can somebody post a picture of where the existing hole in the frame is that this can be relocated to? I rather not create a new hole.

Or, can one simply wrap a hose around the wire in it's existing location to help protect it from the heat?

I don't race my bike, just trail rides, fire roads and dual sport rides. Thanks.

Mike,
I think the one they are talking about is in the gusset where the small frame member over the valve cover meets the main down tube frame member. It is hard to see without removing the left radiator. My wire would not reach that hole, so I ended up drilling and tapping another hole in the same gusset piece. The gusset member is flat and easy to drill. Keep in mind the hole is not very big. If I get a chance, I'll try to take a picture.

Thanks Makis. Maybe I will try it after all.

Arrow on the left is where the mysterious hole is located. There is a hole there on some models, and not others. The center arrow is where I remoted to. The green arrow is the engine support moved for capacitor mod.

Awesome thanks guys.

2011 TE 449 stock exhaust, 1,900 miles. WOW! Did the grounding trick as mentioned above. Completed a 114 mile District 37 ride today and what a difference. Every time I cracked the throttle the bike would accelerate. My last ride, 2 weeks ago, when I would hit the throttle nothing would happen about 25% - 50% of the time until I twisted it again. Todays ride was through much sand and rocks, whenever I needed the front end up it was instant. I never would of thought that it could make that much of a difference.

Also, add grounding from the battery to the frame and to the throttle body.

I went from the battery to the rear seat post nub (subframe) to the long screw at the throttle body (rt side of bike)to the triple clamps where the number plate bolts up to. Did not do the handlebars.

Hi Tinken,


Working on my sisters KTM 525 this weekend, found an interesting problem. Looked like the Ground connections from the battery to the subframe for the KTM had what looked to be galvanic corrosion on the subframe between the ground connections. Caused resistance in the ground path when starting the bike allowing unwanted current to flow via the Voltage Regulator ground! Just a note for everyone to keep an eye on grounds, clean often. Water can collect around or under these connections with the dissimilar metals and cause corrosion.

Any suggestions on ways to keep moisture out and maintain a ground connection?

Side note: This weekend I found the seat rubbing the main wires leaving the ECU. (Probably due to all my seat time) Over time this could lead to trouble. I moved some wires under the ECU to a location that would allow the ECU to rest lower in the saddle. When doing this I found the ECU cables also rubbing on the shock pivot! Maybe this is why the 2012 have a simpler wiring harness ?

TE grounds.
When my new cable arrive this week, I will work on documenting the ground system I install with photos. Suggestions are always welcome.

So I attempted to do this today but found the wire on my bike isn't long enough to reach any pre-existing holes on frame. It's only about 4 1/2 " long
so if I do try to do this I'll probably have to drill a new hole, which I a little reluctant to do but we'll see.

Jerbear,
I had the same concerns. Currently I used some 400+ Deg solder and touched up the connector. Cleaned the connections and inspected the wire.

My 2 Cents..
I can see how this location of the wire could create an issue. Heat over time could causing the wire to become brittle and break. manufacture solder the connector with what type of solder? What are the Heat specification of the wire? Safe bet as others have indicated is to move it! Soon I will extend this connection with proper solder, shrink tubing and some Mill Spec wire to the new Common Battery ground location

[quote="Desertyucca, post: 258103, member: 7012"



Any suggestions on ways to keep moisture out and maintain a ground connection?

.[/quote]

ACF50, this magic fluid will fix a ton of stuff, electrical and mechanical. Spray it anywhere (cept brake discs).
We use it in aviation all the time for corrosion and electric issues. Wont short anything out. Keeps hoses and black engine cases looking like new.
I suggest the 32 oz size as it is non aerosol and comes with a nice pump sprayer. Also is not HAZMAT

http://www.learchem.com/products/acf-50.html
Buy it here
http://www.skygeek.com/acf-50.html

.
Sweet!

Could the tiny negative wire attached to the engine give problems to fire up the motorbike when the engine is hot? What type of problems give this wire in the normal factory position?

Its the ground side of your spark coil.

So I have to move to another part this tiny negative wire? Now it is attached to the side of the engine.

I moved mine to the frame above the engine. It breaks inside the insulation from vibration, basically work harnening the wire.

This is a necessary fix! I checked mine when I had my bike apart, and it was fine. I didn't re-locate it from sheer laziness even though Tinken specifically suggested it. About 5 miles down a trail the other day, my bike sputtered and quit in about 200 yards. It wouldn't re start and smelled of fuel in the exhaust. Upon checking this ground wire, it was only connected by a strand or two of wire right at the ring terminal. I stripped back some new wire and was able to tighten the bare wire on the side of the head and finished the ride.
I'm so glad I remembered this thread, but it was a totally unnecessary delay and my fault.

ACF50, this magic fluid will fix a ton of stuff, electrical and mechanical. Spray it anywhere (cept brake discs).
We use it in aviation all the time for corrosion and electric issues. Wont short anything out. Keeps hoses and black engine cases looking like new.
I suggest the 32 oz size as it is non aerosol and comes with a nice pump sprayer. Also is not HAZMAT

http://www.learchem.com/products/acf-50.html
Buy it here
http://www.skygeek.com/acf-50.html[/quote]



Relocated my ground wiring and now the bike runs MUCH better! It is a must to do in my book. Only thing left to fix now is a sputtering/hesitation problem after running on steady low rpm throttle for a while and then I snap it. Then it just starts sputtering and run bad. I have to back throttle up and then give it again and all is well. Anyone got a suggestion to what it is? Bike is equipped with the Akra aftermarket pipe that is enclosed in purchase in Europe, JD Tuner and Race Map II, TCX Airbox. Runs really good all thru the rpm register now except for the sputtering after even throttle and when I pin it.

Also bought the ACF50 and have used it now. Works really really good, so I can recommend it too. The big 32oz bottle is a great choice, since you can use whatever to apply it with or just use the enclosed pump sprayer. (Y)

I flipped my capacitor in about 2 mins flat.
Slid cap off metal tab.
Loosened two 8mm bolts.
Slid cap back onto metal tab upside down and tighten bolts.
Done