449/511 rear suspension warning

2000Ks on my 2012 449 and no problems, wash and grease rear shock etc after every ride and axles every 2nd/3rd ride depending on were I ride.
I USE MARINE GREASE WITH GRAFFIT IN IT. IT'S BLUE WITH LITTLE GREY PARTICLES IN IT.
and whether this has made a difference i dont know but no issues.{ i've had all the suspension set up for my weight.}
oil change as well every 300km max even less if the bike has worked hard.

Just checked my lower bearing and it is shot, @ 800 miles. Does the new "Husky" Bearing come with the bushing? The parts catalog does not show it separate.

FYI, bearing does not include bushing.

Even with extreme grease mine needed reagreasing recently. With the best grease on earth, and it still got worked dry...I think maybe the bearings are just low quality....or under too much abuse.

It is definitely an area that needs regular attention. Is say anyone with a 449 / 511 needs to check and lube this on a monthly basis. If you have not checked yours it is probably bad.

2012 TE 511 with 2100 km . Removed lower shock mount and bearing dry and rusty. Caught just in time as centre bushing just requires a polish on the lathe. Thanks to the posters for the warning ! If the seals had those springs to clamp around the bushing, I am sure less water would be allowed in, and wash the grease away. Love how easy the rear shock is to remove . Unbolt and pull up and out .Anyone know the bearing number for the lower shock mount ?

8000H6121 I just got one from Halls. Does not include the sleeve/bushing. About $30

Lower shock bearing, non-gen is HK2016-B, I don't have the seal numbers at hand sorry....

Any good bearing shop, 1/2 the price of original

Thanks guys ! Appreciate the info .

http://www.amazon.com/INA-Ina-HK2016B-Needle-Bearing/dp/B00DBNWG82?tag=amaz98-20

12 months and 1800km on my 449 and decided it was time to sort out the stalling/starting issues, get the suspension properly sorted (clicker adjustment not cutting it for me) and gererally give the bike a bit of maintenance love.

Front wheel off, fork out, nice easy job. Problem, nut on top of triple clamp undid by hand. Off with top triple clamp and the bearing nut undid by hand! Surprised me as I had not felt any headstem knock. Water in top bearing and not much grease. Bearing cleaned up fine, will grease and re install. Bottom light on grease but all good.

Shock came out nice and easy. Dropped forks and shocks at local suspension shop for valve work. Once there I realised the condition of the lower shock bearing. Completely shot, rusted and dry.

Decided that all swing arm bearings and linkages needed more than just a cursory squirt of grease from the gun. So far, All looking good, luckily! Does anyone know how to get the linkage from the frame to the horizontal linkage?


I have the bolt out, and was expecting it would just pull out. I guess it has some bushes in it that need to come out first? Feels rough moving the linkage by hand so I'm pretty keen to remove/inspect.

Any help would be appreciated.

So I got the bottom linkage out. Apparently brute force and a mallet is all that's required. Looks like the bushes inside the linkage are about half a mm to long. Anyhow, if the linkage came out that way, must be able to go back in.
Took a while but after using my regular theory of force (if it doesn't fit get a bigger hammer) managed to get said linkage back into frame. Lining up a hole for the bolt is proving difficult though.

Now have the suspension back from local shop (krooztune) with 0.48 fork springs (original measured at .46) original shock spring, valves front and rear and 30mm lower both ends + new lower shock bearing.

Checked all suspension and swing arm bearings, all good, gave them some extra grease for good measure. Cleaned and greased headstem bearings.

Can't wait to ride it now and see how different the ride is..... Unfortunately, that won't be for another 2 weeks

Has anyone tried this bearing, INA-HK2016B? The stock Koyo bearing looks like a packed style needle bearing and the INA one is caged.

Also, what's the easiest way to remove the outer rubber seals without damaging them or is it impossible? They seem stuck.

Note, after I put a heavier race tech spring on my shock, I have to remove the rear wheel to fit the shock up into the frame vertically. It's just a tad too wide to fit it back through the side of the frame in the normal fashion.

Bugger!

It's not too much of a chore to pull the wheel, but I thought I should let everyone know.

Local suspension tuner near me sells Eibach springs, wonder how they compare for diameter?
They are good quality springs.

They are good Springs.
I use them in front and rear. Did use them already on my 660 Raptor.

So can remove the shock out the original way past the pump tank OK still?

Saw this thread a while back and finally had a look at my lower shock bearing at 1600 miles, still good. Slathered some heavy grease in there, good to go. I live in a dry area and don't wash my bike.