449 comments

On my old TT350 and my sons WR 250 we found that putting washer spacers on the clutch bolts gave a tad more free play, easier neutral finding and less roll on drag. Might be worth considering. Also is there a prospect of throwing the clutch out a tad further. I recollect in some old bikes a ball bearing was added to the push rod to get that effect. I know this is hydraulic clutch and that approach is redundant; but there should be some way to get a longer throw-different master cylinder perhaps

What oil do you run??
Should be a light grade oil.
5w40 full synthetic motorcycle oil is ideal.

Check to see that your shifter is
A. Not loose on the slines
B. Not set too high and contacting the cases on upshift.

I'm running 0-40, shifter is set firm, not too high and in fact can't be lowered at all because it would hit frame on down shift if lowered.

Last night took apart slave cal and found the print was a little damaged. Hopefully this is a hot lead!

Yep running 5-40 Penrite fully syn.
Have attended to the gear lever
Thanks a lot guys, appreciate your support.

I experienced all your stated problems on My 2012 SMR511. ZipTy's race mapIII helped, but not until Power Commander V with ZipTy's maps was problem completely solved. Also spewed oil out air box, again completely solved with ZipTy recirculation kit. (not shilling for ZipTy, but they were extremely helpful and resolved my issues) Which now brings us to shifting issues. Ridden hard, she's a little bitch and fights strong against upshifting, particularly 2-3, 3-4 & 5-6. Gentleman riding, few issues. Clutch also very snatchy, on/off operation. This bike is so much fun - If I only can get this sorted out....

BTW, no clutch drag problem. And I run Mobil 1 full synth eurospec 0-40, and change about every 300 miles, or after trackday or 2.