50mm Zokes issues advice pls

Yep, its good to be able to change the seals and have a semi-intelligent conversation on fork action also ... I've had mine all over the place testing different changes ... its really cool making a change, and then testing it over a few rides ...

My forks were a little harsh and deflected at first also ... they just needed air bleed out and the oil volume dropped \ preload changed and they felt lots better and I could ride lots faster and still be safe ....

I never did any of this fork work either till I got on this site ... now I'm in mine every 2 weeks at least it seems ... My oil looks bad every time plus the tubes look like they have mud in them as they are so dirty ... and they are always low on oil and I never see too many leaks ... so I'm not sure what is happening here...

After reading many posts, my conclusion is there are many ways to get to a ride feeling U like ... Lots of variable that can be slide around and crossed over ... I'm trying to get more shims and maybe valves to have a true track and trail set up for the different riding I do here ... maybe 2 sets of forks but I missed a set of TC forks a few weeks back so I'll do different valves with different stacks maybe ...

I had a chat with my dealer here in Oz, and he mentioned a conversation that he had with a very well known suspension tuner in Sydney.
He said they take out the inner spring on the seals, unwind it, and cut 3mm off it. Chuck it back together and they have not had a leaking seal since

oh thats an interesting thought.. i will try that on the old seal.. and see how easy it is..

We went out to the mx track yesterday.. very sloppy, muddy but good fun. my new seals are working perfectly, they are leaving smooth clean fork tubes.. brilliant..

realyy happy with the work i did..

thanks Andy

I am a bit late here but have a look at the videos for both dual cartridge and open cartridge forks on Rocky Mountain ATVMC. They are brilliant, you can see which way things came apart and go back together etc. Have a look it is worth your time.

Hi Andy. That was an excellent read and great input from some real knowledgeable riders. You must be pleased you decided to do the work yourself. I've got an 09 SMR and have done 800 running in miles - yeh don't get away from work too often! - and want to adjust the preload and swap the oil out now run in somewhat. Nothing more as no leaks or binding etc. I'm guessing the SMR has the dual chamber 50mm's? Just good to get some advice before dismantling. Thanks

thought id follow up.. forks have been working flawlessly , no seepage, .. fantastic..

my settings (forks revalved) so may not be relevant for yours

Standard springs front & back
5w oil Putoline
fork Rebound clickers 6 out
fork comp clickers 20 out
shock clickers comp 14 out
shock clickers comp high 15 low 15
air gap.. 95mm

static sag 25mm
rider sag 100mm

For trail riding only
fork comp clickers fully out (24) (softer)
for woods enduro whooped straights 20 out (as above setting) (in the middle)
for MX trax
fork comp clickers 18 out (little stiffer) keeps it slightly up in the stroke more does not effect any bottoming

bleed forks as much as possible makes a big difference... as does getting your rider sag to 100mm higher than 100mm made the front feel noticeable harsher on the front end..
Front handle bars with spacer under bars not clamp.. im 6ft and 85kg with out gear..

Bike is fantastic through wood / field enduros..

ta

Nice one, thanks for the info. Sounds like you've got a good base there for either riding.

I've dug out the manual and am going to stick with the rear shock setting I've got. Messed about with it a lot last year, riding, adjusting, riding. Spoilt for adjustments with the Sachs shock. On the front I've got the compression wound in to 12 clicks out but will increase the pre-load just one click and see how it feels. Shame there's no 'on fork' items but good it can be done all the same.

Oil is 740cm3 of 7.5wt so that'll get changed too. Roll on the summer

What did the re-valving consist of? New valves or some drilling on the stock ones? Do you have any left over parts U might wanna sale?

One of the riders here on this site suggested a MID valve change for my 100% stock (except for oil) forks and changing the compression stack to a straight stack ( nothing more than lining all the shims up on the stack in sequential size manner top to bottom) ... This worked pretty good for the trails along with 265 CCs of 5wt oil in the outer chamber... It also helped on the bottoming the bike has having in MX tracks ... Sort of a compromise between track & trail ...

Recently one of the 22MMs shims was removed from the top of the stack , leaving just 2 22MMs shims up there now ... the 3 22MMs shims were different thickness and I removed the thickest one ... Felt a little more plush for the trails and I wanna remove another 22MM off the top in the future for trails and see how that goes ...

My CMP clickers are 2-3 CLKS from full open and the rebound CLKRs are just a few CLKS closed from the default for the trails .... I've also found out with all the stack changes I have made, it is possible to NOT introduce air into the inner chambers so bleeding process is not aways needed .... maybe one day I'll just leave the forks on the bike and remove just the compression valve from the top and see how that goes ...

But, this week end it is back to the track and the MX stuff so bottoming out on jumps comes back into the picture ...

Turns out all the shops have the wrong part numbers for the 2006 TE450 forks seals and dust seals. My forks are 50mm (the TE450/510) were revalved to the 50mm this year. Confirmed it by measuring my fork tubes and I have a Husky pamphlet that states the same. F.Y.I., when ordering parts for this year, they are listed as 45mm.

Husky pamphlet
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g120/footbeamer/sc002e8462.jpg

Little thread revival.... a few guys from the Supermoto club are having leaky Zoke issues on their huskies, any chance you could shed some light on which Tuner it was? Frank, Terry etc.?

sorry- been out of the loop fer a spell..

great job anj. well documented and methodical. good on ya!

Didnt want to start a new thread.. Needed to find out which forks are interchangeable with my 08 sm 450.. My forks are fine but the right fork cap bolt the 19mm one is stripped. Looked everywhere online cant find anything, guessing its expensive so I might as well get a used set of MX forks. Thanks guys!

Call Hall's Cycle, Gpmotorcycle, MotoForza and see if they can help you.

No luck.. Waiting on a call from Marzoochi North america... This is epic! where can I find a front end that will accept forks like crf,kx,rmz etc..

The shortening/tightening of the inner seal spring was the fix for me. Not to go into detail but I had ongoing issues with mine leaking - I even had two brand new forks put on by the dealer which still leaked. The inner spring was shortened and so was the wiper seal spring, but only slightly (to avoid stiction!!)

Mate after 20 set of seals and three different suspension tuners look at them in under two years I gave up and fitted a set of showa twin chambers to my 09 310. I was happy with the action of the zocks but they could not hold oil.

Nice bike Paul, the showa's are from a Honda CRf? ???
Looks like you have stock axel and stock lower tripple? what did you have to change?

FWIW- I have been lucky with my open 50 Marzocci's- I never had a leak till I dented an outer tube near the seal/wiper. I fixed the dented upper and put on new Marzocci seals/wipers from Motosportz- No problem since (well over a year). I did nothing special on the install. Mine's a 09TE450 and I probably have over 10,000 miles of 95% offroad mix and 5% pavement.

Yeah I would love details on the swap to the showas... Nice scooter!!

Here is the thread on the fork conversion.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/showa-47mm-forks-on-09-te-310.18523/
I've since had a custom top tree made from BRP to suit.