I have not owned a 610 but I have seen their air box lids. In stock form they are far more open then the corked up 630 lid. We cut open our air box lids as much as possible behind the protection of the side panel. We now have the main opening that looks like the 610's. I didn't think twice about it.
This is a good thread. I've got my 630 totally stripped down right now and engine out, so it's the perfect time for me to modify the box a bit. I'm in the camp that doesn't want to markedly increase the chance of water ingress, so I think I'm gonna do Bob's standoff idea in combination with holes/screen in the part that's hidden behind the side panel. I'm also with mjskier in that I don't do deep river crossings any longer- like him I've heard/read about too many folks drowning their bikes and just don't want that pain in the butt. I don't mind water- that's fun- but man those river rocks covered in algae or whatever get as slippery as cat sh*t on a linoleum floor.
Just remember that the air filter can still get wet without a deep water crossing. I've ridden in some pretty significant down pours and know for a fact that water can still find its way into a stock 630 air box and onto the air filter.
How old is your EHS filter screen? They degrade over time and lose some of their water resistance. I try to keep mine on the annual replacement list. $15 a year is cheap insurance. If you still want to ditch the filter no need for a new air box lid. Just cut a piece of plastic to replace the screen and seal the opening with. I actually keep a small piece of thin milk jug plastic and duct tape in my tool kit. If I ever come across a really deep water crossing that worried me I can stop and have the EHS covered in 5 minutes. A stock airbox lid with snorkel removed is more prone to water getting in than mine which is snorkel intact and EHS pre filter. Also when I had the snorkel off and after I removed the right side exhaust can, I would get mud flying into the box also. _
Not a bad idea on the piece of plastic front! I always carry some race tape with me to affect factory grade repairs in the field, so carrying a suitable size piece to tape over the EHS is easy enough....can't believe that thought never occurred to me....I think i need to get more sleep : The EHS is old now, went on the bike in late 2010 as I understand it (didn't own it then), so give or take 4 years old...Might hunt down a replacement if they're only $15 or so.
Here is my solution to the restricted / high airflow speed of the standard filter housing. At the time of installing this mod, I had already carried out the Power-Up mods, and tweaked the EFI using I-beat. I believe I noticed a small increase in performance after doing the airbox mod. I was especially concerned the original airbox setup would drive dirt through the filter because of the very high speed airflow hitting the filter. This mod has greatly slowed the airflow hitting the filter and results in an even spread of dust accross the whole filter. The new cover is made by vacuum forming from one of those Poly "alphabet" thermo plastics. It simply fits over the original cover, which has the 8 x 30mm holes drilled into it (later modded to 10 holes and original snorkel hole blocked) with the original snorkel removed, as the new cover incorporates the snorkel. I beleive it could be improved a little by stricter instructions to the plastic moulder, to ensure the greatest cross sectional area of the snorkel, with less clearance allowed for the attachment screws. As can be seen, it protrudes slightly from the side if the bike, but during a number of bush rides, single track to fast fire trails, or on the road, I have never once felt it against my leg. I'm very pleased with the end result. Power on regardless.
Yes you're definitely overdue to replace your filter screen. I'm ordering a replacement for mine soon. I could order an extra and then post it to you to help minimize your total cost. If interested message me. _
Thanks Will. "Did you have to adjust the fueling after fitting the new cover?" I didn't , but to be honest, I didn't chase ultimate performance. I may still be a little lean at high throttle openings, as now and again I still get a pop or two on de-cel from high rpm. But, the crazy popping and stalling has gone, and the bike rips, with markedly better acceleration, right through the rev range.
I notice you have barretts .I adjusted Stujam bike last week with barretts,baffle in, to 108 110 118 .He said it now wants to lift the front wheel in the first four gears and felt more like a Kim 690.Prior to adjusting it was running hot/lean.
Ye bike is going great now with o2 eliminator, ibeat done by Will, twin barrets with spark arrestor in and no airbox snorkel . Will do a 600-700k run next week so should be sweet . Just need to plug airbox "drip hole" on bottom with bit of pipping . Going to be cautious on creek crossings and walk anything that looks deep .
I have had my Husky since Oct.18,2010 and I STRICTLY RIDE STREET on this bike, I have other machines for dirt, and I've been wanting to do this mod FOREVER but never had the right tools..... Until now!!! FINALLY I WAS ABLE TO PULL THIS OFF TODAY: PS- The box in picture is the Aluminum Mesh I got @ Jo-Ann's Fabrics or Michael's
IF YOU DO THIS DO NOT USE THAT STEEL MESH!!! It's waayyy to thin so it dents and gets messed up easily!!! I NEED TO FIND BETTER/STRONGER/THICKER MESH!!! I will repost when done!!
I'm working on a similar mod- going to try and use this: http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchan...ObXIprd0nE875SbfMRnl6FSSt76H1TDqsJBoCldHw_wcB I cut huge triangles into my box though (much like the other airbox mod thread guy did)
Dude, that's like deck table expanded metal, that's huge and thick, it might keep mice out but that's about it
Yeah- well i had that in mind and went to Lowes for something with a smaller gauge, this was the 3/8s stuff - https://goo.gl/photos/B7nFHA7dcb6ePa4PA Not sure it's exactly the right thing still but none of the hardware stores near me had anything "mesh" like asside from window screen which is too thin.
Autozone has an aluminum mesh to use with bondo to patch holes in bodywork, that's what I used. Or just get on Ebay... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bikemaster-...ack-/321581304281?hash=item4adfbd49d9&vxp=mtr
Interesting, i'll check that out. The stuff I used seems to be holding up well- i stuck it on with some black ABS pipe cement. Curious about maybe a little bit of sound blocking material actually- I have that "swirly" plastic box removed from behind the filter- it seemed like the most restrictive part- but it was also played a big role in quieting the intake- might see about some additional foam/filter material.
I did this on my left kick 610 made no difference what so ever to performance but sounds and looks better. Mines a road bike only on supermoto wheels so will never get wet
Yes, Dynobob is right Today after cleaning the airfilter I made these pictures: In theory there is plenty of space for the air to flow: Still there is space enough when we put the air filter: But when we put the lid then the air filter get pressed... and almost the air entrance get closed because there are not panels in this area to hold the air filter away from the air entrance: So I'm also going to make Dinobob's mod Another good idea is Lewo's mod in this post: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/getting-more-out-of-your-630-air-filter.35884/
