I would not recommend any type of air box modifications without incorporating some form of fuel management system that allows increasing the fuel metering over what the stock power-up system can deliver including the ECU delivered with the arrow slip-ons. Bang for buck and simplicity definitely goes to the JD tuner and is what I have selected to use on my bike.
Ok, thanks for the reply. In short, letting more air IN (with my allready installed Arrows, new ECU etc ) will make the engine run too lean on fuelmixture? I have ordered the iBeat2.1 and if I understand it correctly, one can adjust the fuel delivery in "three different levels" with the iBeat2.1. So the question is: Is it worth the effort of cutting holes in the airbox and start tampering with the EFI settings?
IMO I would order the JD tuner and not even mess with the iBeat. Seriously,, get the JD tuner instead. The amount of adjustability with the iBeat is minimal and the JD tuner provides much more adjustment in a greater variety of throttle ranges.
and JD has adjustability on the fly also. No need to drive home and hook your bike up to the computer. _
No worries, the iBeat was mainly to get rid of, and check, the error code. So far the air box is intakt with snorkel and all, I am just in the process of deciding next step.. If it includes purchase of a JD tuner, so be it...
I have both the JD Tuner and the IBeat. No harm in that, if the money isn't an issue. If I had to do it all over again, I probably would have just gotten the JD Tuner.
Moneys always a issue - especially if the wife finds out... I will have a go with the iBeat first - and then see. Thanks anyway
Just a quick update. I washed my bike today for the first time since installing the pre-filter. I followed the wash job with an air filter swap. There was some moisture in the airbox in a nice square-shaped pattern. I did not use high pressure water, just a garden hose with a shower head on it, I also avoided spraying the pre-filter directly. It wasn't enough water that I'm terribly concerned about it, nor will I replace my airbox cover with a stock one (at least not yet). But, I thought I'd let everyone know.
If you didn't spray the pre-filter directly then doesn't make sense that you had a square shaped pattern of moisture. If the water just drizzled or seeped in then wouldn't have been square shaped. Square suggests a direct spray. Or did you ride the bike after washing? Or ride recently in the rain? This was a thought I've had previously. I know my pre-filter holds static water but if water is sitting on the filter or blown onto it from riding I wonder if the intake might suck some in. Even I've considered that possibility my thinking was it is still preferrable for me to use the pre-filter and otherwise stock filter box cover. Previously with snorkel removed and extra holes drilled under side cover I had a bigger chance for water and mud to enter from the rear tire throwing it up. I will be washing my bike today for the first time since installing my pre-filter. Had already planned on covering it with blue painters tape same as I previously did with my snorkel and extra hole openings. _
Yes. In rainy weather, there´s a moist square pattern on the filter foam. No more than that, even in very wet conditions. If the filter lets in air, it´s bound to let moist air in too. I was once told that moist air leads to a power increase. It´s certainly not a problem.
I may have spaced off and sprayed it directly. But I use really low pressure water. Think gentle shower, not a stream of water. The amount of water in the airbox and filter was nothing to be concerned about, IMO.
where did you buy the parts? I can't seem to fint any place online to buy a power up kit and that other stuff. my husqvarna dealer sucks and im kinda noob. any links please?
Universal Kit Single Plate 4.5X4.5 EHS RACING Universal Application - Kit Configuration Page JD Jetting Store :: Fuel Injection... Products - Bike Finder - FMF Racing with this three mods your in business hope this help
Washed my bike last week and had a air filter change planned after washing so I didn't cover my EHS with blue painters tape like previously. I sprayed the pre filter pretty good with direct spray from the hose. Not extreme high pressure like a car wash but strong enough with a trigger grip spray attachment. No water whatsoever found in the airbox after. I'm convinced now and will stop covering the EHS with painters tape and will now start cleaning the pre filter and frame when I wash my bike. _
I have a second airbox cover that is unmodified. I recently put it back on to see if I could feel any loss in power. I couldn't tell the difference, so I left the stock one in place.
Completely unmodified so still has snorkle? My bike had snorkle removed and cover drilled by the dealer. After losing the right hand muffler as protection my snorkle opening in cover would allow excessive dirt inside the airbox and sometimes clog with mud from the rear wheel. Since also a potential entry for water I decided to go completely sealed stock cover with the EHS. Didn't notice any difference in performance from drilled and de-snorkled cover versus stock sealed cover with pre filter but airbox sure stays a lot cleaner now. _
My idiot son can wheely a pushbike, so it´s not a matter of horse power (or brains). The EHS airbox cover is watertight. Together with the rwin Arrows (and their EFI), the JD tuner (optimal setting) and the p/u plug, the 630 has A LOT more power than the 610 ever had.
You will need to change the fuel metering when going from an opened air box cover to a sealed cover. Without doing this you should not expect a change or maybe you may determine that your settings for the opened airbox are incorrect.
