What settings were you using with the stock un-cut lid? More of a curiosity question. I would imagine the fuel economy of your bike has improved with the un-cut lid and leaner fuel metering.
This is all with the Leo Ti system: JD's default Green (low range), 3/4 Yellow (mid range), 4 Red (top end), 3 Green/Blue (idle), 3/4 Yellow/Blue (green-yellow transition), 4 Red/Blue (accelerator), 4/5 I don't remember anything significant about using the default settings. Setting them to all 3's per JD will set the bike back to how it was if the JD box wasn't installed. EHS Pre-Filter Installed Green (low range), 4 Yellow (mid range), 5/6 Red (top end), 6 Green/Blue (idle), 3/4 Yellow/Blue (green-yellow transition), 2 Red/Blue (accelerator), 8 With the above settings, I was only getting 34 MPG. That was pretty ridiculous, so I tuned it down some. Current Green (low range), 3 Yellow (mid range), 5 Red (top end), 2 Green/Blue (idle), 3 Yellow/Blue (green-yellow transition), 3 Red/Blue (accelerator), 3 I have tried the above settings both with and without the open airbox. MPG didn't seem to change all that much, neither did perceived power. MPG is around 38 like that. If I get close to 40, I'm happy. The only noticeable difference to me is that the front wheel doesn't come up as easily in 2nd gear as it did with the fuel turned way up and the airbox open. I suck at wheelies, so that really doesn't mean much. The bike ran nice and smooth no matter what my settings were. For me, this tuning thing is all guess & check. I'm a newbie at it. So I'll be the first to admit that I don't have a clue what I'm doing.
Still, you did it and reported......good work!! I do agree with you, seems a little here and a little there is just that. In the end, until you run it awhile it's hard to tell what's perfect. I've been tweaking for a few months....more when I'm bored and want something to do. I still have a little hesitation/stumble at constant 50-60mph......not too bad but I can feel it. The tweaking continues. It's all love in the end for a cool bike.
I am surprised you find a leaner than P/U setting (2 setting for WOT setting) OK with the Leo Vince exhaust. After installing the Leo that is the first thing that I felt was lean over the stock exhaust system / PU mode and one of the few adjustments I made right after obtaining the JD sensor. I did not feel the midrange setting suffered as much from running lean. Most of my testing was done side by side against a bench mark 630 with just a stock exhaust and P/U. The test 630 would actually pull away from my 630 with the Leo installed at WOT until I was able to install the JD sensor and richen up the WOT setting.
So your gauge was running side-by-side with another 630? I don't have that luxury. I don't get any popping out of the exhaust and the bike runs and pulls smooth. That's really all I've got to go by. When you say WOT setting, are you talking about Red or Red/Blue on the JD box?
WOT= wide open throttle or red on the JD box. Similar to the main jet on a old school carb. It can be difficult to go by seat of the pants feeling when adjusting the fuel metering.. unless you have considerably experience doing it. I was surprised when Dustin on his TE630 with stock exhaust and P/U could pull from me in a drag race after I installed the Leo system. We ran against each other at least 12 times and even switched bikes to ensure it wasn't rider induced. My bike did change with the JD box and giving it some more fuel at WOT however. Dustin has now installed a FMF slip on and the air box mod pictured in the first post of this thread. Now when comparing, even though I don't have the airbox mod done yet, are bikes are very close in acceleration. His consumes more fuel due to the richer fuel metering settings on the JD box. I attribute the similarity in performance to the Leo full system putting out more power than the FMF slip on.
I just reset my TPS and set the JD box back to their defaults and took the bike for a spin. Honestly, I can't tell the difference. The bike still runs great.
So guys, 12 months on what is the consensous. Is the EHS pre filter a worthwhile mod. My JD tuner has just arrived and i am waiting on my FMF exhaust to turn up. Should i be doing the air box mod as well or does it not make much difference. I am looking for better low end acceleration out of corners.
I went back to the stock airbox cover. I wasn't happy with the amount of water getting through the EHS.
feel like passing on your filter to me..... (actually i would be interested if you want to get rid of it as i would like to try one)
I want to hang onto it. Still have the modified airbox cover sitting in the garage in case I'm in the mood again. I may get a new membrane and see if it does better.
These opinions makes me take the decision not to modified my airbox My bike have twin arrow exhausts plus the new racing ECU by Husqvarna. So far I’m happy with bike performance Anyway I was curious about what was inside the airbox. This is what I've found. Is is standard? Thank you
Yes, you're good to go. Seems the US-spec bikes had a labyrinth type of baffle to either slow intake air, redirect it, or quiet it - or maybe all of the above. I think everybody took that out and threw it away. I don't see that piece here in your pics. One mod worth doing is to drill a hole in the flange for the valve cover breather hose, through the hose, and zip-tie it so it can't fall out. If it does then dirt comes in behind the airfilter element. Be sure to apply some anti-seize compound or grease to the cover screws and only cinch them finger-tight. Use a light touch with a driver type socket, not a ratchet handle. The nut-serts can spin in the housing and make a real mess of it all. I also like to apply a line of heavy grease to the inside edge of the element where it contacts the housing. This makes a better seal and keeps tiny stones and water out. Watch for a fine dusting on the backfire screen - pretty common to see some super fine dust getting through. The only other issue with the stock snorkel is that a LOT of dirt will collect right where it enters the box so the element gets a dirty spot there. Once it gets covered with dirt then the air obviously has to pass through over the rest of the element. I think some may have even applied a type of filter skin or something over that spot to force more air over the entire foam element. Oh, and make sure your element isn't getting aged and crumbling. A new element is easy to source and suggested either to replace or to have a spare. Twin-Air is easy and cheap to buy on ebay - like $35 USD. BTW, it looks like someone installed the battery backwards, or I turned mine around so the positive post couldn't contact the frame should the rubber strap keeper come off or break or something. It's worth a look at all that configuration. Pics on request. I was just looking because mine hadn't been ridden in months, and even though I kept a trickle charger on it the battery was toast. Had a trip last weekend and had to go out and buy a new battery. <dayumm!!!> PS - I see your passenger pegs are gone. Those little strap brackets are hard to source - what we used to fasten the subframe reinforcement brackets. Which is another item worth looking into if you're going to carry any cargo at all - anything. The sub is aluminum and WILL break.
BTW, here's the Twin-Air foam element on Amazon for $32.10 shipped: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OMVV9Q?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=nav_timeline_asin Or shop the part number: 155506 Yeah, it's the wrong photo but the right element. I was looking through my order history and saw it, got mine for $28 back in 2014. $5 cheaper than Dennis-Kirk, no tax, free ship. Whoot!
Hi, CJBrown. Sorry for the delay but, as I just say in the “sub-frame reinforcement” thread, Mods was taking so much time to approve new messages that I was really disappointed. So it was three weeks since the last time I connected to “CafeHusky”. Thanks a lot for all the information and all the advices . I’m also concerned about how close the positive post is from the frame. Could you please show the way you have resolved it? I guess a mere cap that covers the positive post would be enough, but I’m not sure. BTW, what do you mean by “backfire screen”? Sorry I don’t know what does it means.
