I agree with you. But... It’s not about paranoia. The point of this thread (I think) is just to find out the easiest and quickest way to adjust the chain… and be sure we are making it correctly… as the manual is a bit confused at this point. That’s why I took the time to take those measurements. From now on, adjust it is “piece of cake”.
guys....am watching it but honestly don't have time as much as I like for this. do not put out "bait", touch the stove, or poke the hornets nest. Thanks
Fair enough, but i refuse to be the one watching my step for a scumbag like flynn. The shoe should well and truly be on the other foot in this situation and he should have been gone by now. I appreciate your efforts to keeping this forum going for us, but im also absolutely furious over this.
Sometimes you just feel like poking the bandaid on nutjobs. But, I will refrain from doing so. Starting now.....
You're going to call me crazy man, and may be you're right , but today I made the test again, this time with the shock absorber with its original lengh. You could turn confused if now I tell you that the 12mm measurement that the manual recomend us is OK (may be better 11mm). But only under these conditions: 1- You have to take the measurement being sure that the chain is in the tightest point. 2. You have to take the measurement with the bike in vertical position, for example, with the handlebar laying on a wall. Hope this help
An update: IMHO, the easyest and quickest way to check the chain tight... 1.- With the bike standing on the floor, and the handlebar laying in a wall: In the point shown in the figure, fit a bush 24-25 mm diameter (or alternatively a shim in the same size) and make sure the lower branch of the chain is slightly taut. 2.- With the bike over a stand (so the rear wheel is not touching the floor): In the point shown in the figure, fit a bush 30-31 mm diameter (or alternatively a shim in the same size) and make sure the lower branch of the chain is slightly taut.
