'71 400 Cross resto

geez, nuthin gets past you guys! i'll post up some pics.

so i've loaded the gearbox assembly into the RHS case, i'm ready to load the crank assembly and then put it together, the problem is that when i had the cylinder studs machined out to get the barrel off the machine shop also split the cases, i received back a cardboard box full of shrapnel, so i didn't get to pull it apart or take pics beforehand.

I am sure you will sort it out. I took pictures of the disassembly of my engine.
I transferred them to my computer for reference.

Then, my computer up loaded windows 10. It was fine but one morning I got some weird ass screen and could never get it to open up. I finally was able to access the restore partition but lost everything but the basic operating system..

So.... While the manual is helpful there is a certain amount of hands on experience necessary, you know, a certain feel that can't be learned from the book.

yeah, the manual is pretty vague, i think it's right, everything seems to work properly and nothing binds up so i'm going with what i've done being OK.

Typical computer, runs fine until you actually need it, then it's not wanting to play.

Which manual are you using? Is it the Husqvarna or Haynes etc?

The shift fork, detent and spring look correct from your picture. The gears will only fit together properly one way. Thrust washers... On the auxiliary shaft (to the right in the picture), you should have four washers, one on each side of first and fourth gears that keep the bushings properly positioned in the gears as the bushings are slip fit. There should also be a thrust washer at the outer end of the main shaft that provides a thrust surface between the gear and the clutch drum bushing. Thought I should mention it since you didn't get to split the cases.
Best reference for the washers/ locations is the parts manual. If you don't have a copy of the parts manual, let me know.
Steve

I have both, but really, the exploded parts diagrams have been the most help

nice one Steve, i have the manuals you sent me, cheers! the gears themselves were assembled from the exploded parts diagrams and matching the thrust washers to the witness marks against which they sat.
Your confirmation of the shift fork assembly helps, i had a couple of go's at that but i thought it was right, thanks!

Merry Christmas everyone, and a huge THANK YOU to everyone who has chimed in with advice, tips, offers of help and e-mails and downloads, i wouldn't have gotten this far without your input on the forum.
Stay safe!
Paul.
p.s here's the pics of what's under the covers.

Ducati

Nice bikes!

The motor is finished, i had a mate check my work as i wasn't keen on having to pull it out if i stuffed it but it was all good, he helped with the ignition and the kick starter mechanism as well so all i have to do is drop it in the frame and assemble the rest of the bike!
Woo Hoo!!!

Hmmm, i have struck a problem!

I bought a new rear brake rod, luckily, because it's an inch longer than the one it replaced. But, with my new brake linings, which are correct and the wheel spins freely, the rear link that bolts onto the cam seems to be too far back, i can get the rod on but it's a battle and the stopper sits against the swingarm and will scratch it if i try and assemble it.
I've seen some bikes with the link almost vertical at 6 o'clock, mine is more like at 8 o'clock, and while i've seen some in a similar spot i'm not sure it's right. can someone measure the overall length of theirs and tell me if there's a weld across where the fork for the roller is attached to the flat part of the link?
cheers
Paul

This may be out here Looney but is your wheel fully forward in the swing arm. If so try sliding it back to mid adjustment point and check how the brake rod clears the swing arm.

I had a similar issue on the 450 and discovered that when I slid the wheel back in the swing arm it changed the angle of the brake lever and the brake rod no longer contacted the swing arm.

Here is a picture of my 450 which is similar to your 400.

Before I slid the wheel back my brake rod was rubbing the swing arm.

Here is a photo with the wheel fully forward.

Hi Mark,
That helps, i thought being forward would be better but obviously not!
Unfortunately, the PO had modified the brake rod, making it shorter (with a different thread) and shortened up the lever with the roller too. Fuck knows why, maybe to get more leverage with worn out shoes, dunno. Bloody Farmers, they will butcher stuff with a grinder and welder rather than buy a new pair of brake shoes AAARRRGGHH !!!

Thanks!
Paul.

Looney, I have a rod and a lever if you need them. I figure they are a dime a dozen here but not sure of the supply in OZ.

Hey Mark, thank you. I've got a new rod already, the lever i might take you up on, i've already painted and zinc plated my stuff so if John Lefevre has a refurbished one i can just bolt on i'll go that way to make it easy on myself.
Unless yours is ready to go? if so Pm me please!

So my owners manual states that my gearbox needs 900ml of SAE20 ?

Is that what you guys are using or has anyone found a better/ more up to date oil that will work better?

cheers
Paul