'71 400 Cross resto

the owners manuals all say that right up to the departure from sweden in 1988. we have talked at length about what we run. if you do a quick search, theres lots of opinions.

yeah, i did that, and i found "surprize" talking about ATF and briggs&stratten oil but i was hoping there was an accepted alternative that's used by many with no issues and i haven't found anything that indicates that yet.
I can get a SAE30 no problem and i'm figuring a semi synthetic or a high zinc content would be best, hoping to see what is most popular

safe would be anything jaso-ma rated, meaning wet clutch compatible. any motorcycle engine oil in 20, 30, or 40w will work fine. atf works ok as well but many are 10w or less..type f is thicker, closer to 20w. its tough for anyone to recommend something if they arent in australia, as different parts of the world have different oils.
i get the least amount of shavings running rotella t6 full synthetic 5w-40 diesel oil. high zinc content and also jaso-ma rated..

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/what-oil.79877/

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/what-transmission-oil.70118/

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/transmission-oil-1976-wr-360.45304/

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/transmission-oil-weight-again.41294/

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/crankcase-oil.41228/

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/gearbox-oil-1983-wr500.35294/

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/oil-change-and-now-clutch-slips.33511/

there are many more but older threads

righto, thanks, i have no idea what you put in the search parameters to get those, my results were sparse. Anyway, it seems guys run everything from hydraulic fluid, ATF, mono grade mineral oil or multigrade mineral or synthetic. As long as i use something without friction modifiers and is suitable for a wet clutch i'm sweet. Some use Shell "Rotella" which it seems is called VSX4 here and i have that in my shed, i'l;l go with that i think.
Thanks for the help mate.

I use type "F" automatic transmission fluid. Good clutch action and no lubrication issues even during hard usage. ATFs other than type F have friction modifiers that may affect clutch performance. As I recall, back in the day, we used to try to get 20W non detergent since it had less tendency to foam compared to detergent oils. Probably doesn't apply to modern oils, as they all have anti foaming additives. ATFs are low foaming (frothing) fluids. Haven't tried modern gearbox fluids, but seems that most of them are higher viscosity than was specified for our machines.

Do like the idea of a multi viscosity oil, which ATF isn't. Do you run the 5w-40 in all your Huskys?

yes. i used to amsoil 10w30 mc oil for a few years but the rotella t6 seems to shift better. i run it in my streetbike like many others as well..

i like to use the advanced search, under "more"...and then search title only under the left kickers section. i just searched "oil"

I've been busy over my xmas holidays, i need to set up the carb and install the chain, i've since plumbed the tank and breather hoses in clear so i'm almost ready to start it.
Can't wait!

Wow, I knew that bike would be stunning finished, you haven't disappointed!

cheers mate, i appreciate the kind words, i've ordered a rear brake lever for the drum plate and i've set up the carb, i'll get a chain and install it this weekend hopefully.

That's beautiful...nice job! If I were you loony at this stage of your restoration I'd be going nuts with the anticipation to start her up and go for a spin down the street! I can just hear the sound of a crisp 400 Husky motor, few things in life top that.

Agreed, very nice workmanship. Nothing like the distinctive look and torquey exhaust bark of these old Huskys.
1971 was the correct year for the Aberg Replica decal, so very appropriate.

A detail that I am sure is on your list... attaching that front brake cable to the fork leg, preferably before your first ride.

Eager to hear you've gotten it running.

cheers!
yep, i need to attach the cable somehow, i've seen electrical tape (bit ghetto for my liking, but it works) and a steel zip tie but the only ones i have use a tension type slide that the loop runs through, i think to be correct they need a loop that the tail bends back over and that's it? I'm also a bit worried about scarring up the fresh paint....

Thanks mate, i am, i really am looking forward to annoying my neighbours with it, the timing was set retarded from the std setting in the manual and because it was so easy to start i put it back in the same place, once i've run it if it seems flat i'll advance it up to std specs and i'm guessing it will be much sharper/crisper than how it's set as of now.
Cheers
Paul.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/metal-cable...m2a4db3fecf:m:mHq4Xw8-fVG8WlPbKGc-rIw&vxp=mtr
These were used to secure the wiring and clutch cable to the frame, along with the brake cable to the fork. Doesn't list the length, not sure they'll reach around the fork. I just ordered a set.

yeah nice, they're what i want, will you let me know how they go when yours arrive please mate?

I have a set of those ties for when I do my 71 400 Cross resto. They are 150 mm long, so not long enough to go around the fork leg.

Just go to the local Honda dealer. Those were standard cable wraps on the CBX.
95014-61200 Band A2, wire. $1.99