77 WR250 back from the dead

Eric is correct. All the "inner" parts are clamped together with the swingarm nut. Check your pivot bolt for wear by running your finger along it. If there is a step in it replace it with another one. Don't forget the shim washers that go between the frame and the swingarm !

hahaha, i always see the shims on the outside of the frame. and then the frame is worn...

Ok I understand the clamping side load theory but I still think there will be relative movement between the bushings and bolt. I'll see when it goes together.
Here's my pivot bolt. It does have some wear but I think it's reusable.
My large washers were pretty worn so I had replacements made out of 304 stainless.
After the ID and OD were cut on the lathe they wire EDM'd to the .040" thickness so they are flat within .001"
I'll make sure they go back in the correct stack up.

To change to subject a little does my shift lever look like it was hit or is it supposed to be less than 90 degrees to the mount?

the toe is super bent..pretty sure the later years will fit and give you a folding toe

I would use that bolt too. Shims look great & shifter looks normal to me...just kidding, I'd straighten it before riding.

Yea I thought it didn't look quite right. I'll prolly just heat/straighten now and put a folding one on for safety later.

Sounds like a reasonable plan.

safety i guess, but will stop bending and greatly reduce stress/damage to shift shaft, seal, and the case.

Well safety in the first place but all the other things you said are true too.
Maybe I'll just pick up a folding one now then.
What later years fit on a 77?

Are there any aftermarkets that would be better?
These look good
http://www.hdmoto.com/shift_levers_s/54.htm

Tons of aftermarket options work, lots of metric bike manufacturers, not that many options for shaft size. I've got a motorcycle salvage place nearby (they also sell new Emgo stuff, and a few other aftermarket, NOS and discounted things, nothing directly marketed for Husky though). For something like a shift pedal, with the original in hand I can usually eyeball what fits. To be sure, look for a bike on the lot that matches the model on the package and fit your original onto it. Or go the other direction, wander around the lot looking for bikes with the stock shift pedal already removed and see which ones your pedal fits onto. Make sure to pay attention to how the pedal is secured to the shaft.

Aftermarket stuff at the salvage yard is frequently cheap and of questionable quality, so if you don't feel good about what you see walk away with new knowledge of cross-brand compatibility. Of course, sometimes the quality of something you buy online isn't as good once you've got it in hand as it looked on the site, so I guess you've got a catch-22 there. I may or may not have an OE part or two from a non-Swedish manufacturer on my Husky, you never know (just don't tell the purists).

just swap on an 80s shifter, the early 80s ones would even look correct

Here's update pics during the resto of the triple clamps.

Anyone have info on this speed/ODO combo unit?

VDO Enduro Speedometer with reset-able trip meter. OEM for Husqvarna until replaced by the Nippon Denso we see on our single shock WRs

Thanks, was it an option and is it resettable to 0?
I can only turn it and move the numbers up/down.

Started the reassembly this weekend.
I'm going to clean up and redo the forks this winter but want to get everything together now.
Question on height of the tube over the top triple clamp. In the manual the picture looks to be about 20mm but there's no measurement given.

depends on where your riding, fast desert stuff, have the tops just out of the triples, if your tight woodsy riding, slip them up ~20mm or so, makes a big difference in how they slot into a corner.

So tailor it to the type of riding by changing the rake angle, makes sense.
Is there a factory general setting to begin with?

I wouldn't worry about it until you have the front end all assembled including wheel with tyre and the front fender. Then, pop the top of the tubes and lift the front wheel up until it stops. See how much gap you have between the fender and tyre. Minimum would probably be 3/8". That will be your maximum that you can go with your fork tubes in that direction. Make a note of it so that when you start to play with it later you will know exactly how far you can drop the forks before you wipe out the front fender ! Alot will depend on what length of fork tubes and length of damper rod.