77 WR250 back from the dead

750????? wow were the shafts bent?

Well Ohlins is out of stock so I need to see if anyone else has them.
Is there a key to their numbering system?
I see they have 607 and 617 which are both 340mm.
Then there are the 700 series that have the integrated reservoir.

I doubt either had been serviced before. They did replace basically every wear piece and did also replace springs to match the shocks to my fat back end. If you look at the shock service advertised on the old husky club site, all things considered, it's in-line with what's advertised there.

if you replaced both springs then thats a little more reasonable.

It arrived today and doesn't look like it was ever used.

Getting things in the build going again I installed the coil and regulator from the new Powerdynamo kit. I have the original Motoplat kill switch but the cover is torn. Are there replacements of these available? I'm going to fix it with some black silicone caulk.
I also got the refurbished carb on. Looks way better than before with all new parts.

I cheaply and temporarily refurbished my cruddy yellowed plastics by using a fine wire wheel in a drill and spray painting them white. Makes a huge difference in the look. Until I get replacements this is a good fix.

Another question, my airbox to carb boot is the offset 125 style and has cracks. According to the workshop parts list it should be the straight style so I ordered the "correct" straight boot. One weird thing is the pictures in the owners manual show the offset one.
I haven't neded to fit the airbox to the bike yet but got the part today and fit the box up and whaddya know it's offset from the carb.
Which is correct and could the airbox have been swapped?
There's a complete 76 airbox on ebay and it looks slightly different.
Maybe they had stuff leftover at the factory and just used it up.

Rich on your swing arm bearings, where did you get the case hardened steel sleeves? When I ordered the kit from HVA, the steel sleeves were too long for my '77CR (as well as a 78WR I'm working on). Parts fiche shows different sleeves starting in 1979 that appear to be the longer ones.

I reused one and the other I bought from John LeFevre at vintage husky.
I'd send the long ones back for credit.

I'm done working on the airbox and I think it came out great.
I drilled out the rivets, cleaned up the rubber, cleaned/repainted both halves.
The only thing that's a bit dumb looking is that I masked the cross country and 250 to save the original.
I used 5/32 (4mm) aluminum blind rivets and added a stainless reinforcement strip under the heads as well as stainless washers under the expanded end. It's much better than factory.
I had a heck of a time getting the old rubber mounts out and one even sheared off. Galvanic corossion occured from the steel studs in aluminum. So to fix that problem I drilled out the 8mm holes and added stainless Helicoils. Also I found a cheap high quality supply for new rubber mounts, J.W. Winco. They specialize in metric hardware and all types of items. I was able to get new mounts the exact correct size of 30x15mm rubber with 8mx1.25 threads plus the metal is stainless. Part number 351-30-15-M8-SS-55 .
They cost $4.86 each with free shipping plus a $9.00 service fee for orders under $50.
So it was $7.86 each but they are high quality.

Nice job !

I'm onto the tank and wheels next. The tank is in pretty good shape with only two dents that aren't that bad. I did the heat/freeze method and they got a little better than in the pics. It had a lot of surface rust spotting but it pretty much is gone. The pics are from before. I used 300/600 grit wet sand and a polish for the outside and apple cider vinegar for the inside. That really works but I didn't treat it after so I got rust bloom and will have to hit it again. I'm torn between sending it to be professionally finished or doing it myself. If I DIY is there a template available for the masked chrome area? Also should I live with the dents or try to remove them?

"I'm torn between sending it to be professionally finished or doing it myself."
depends if its a rider or a pool room bike. if its a rider, just smash it together yourself...learn lots and it wont be heartbreaking after that muddy sandy ride that treats your tank to a rub back with#1 grit

pool room - go professional. (someone to blame after it gets the #1 grit treatment! )

#1 grit extra crunchy.
Yea maybe I'll do it myself because it will be getting banged up a bit.
Back to my other question, are templates available for the masking/white line or do I try making my own?

I rekon visteur had one or sketched dimension's once

I'm going through the same dilemma, pro paint or DIY. If you go DIY, spend the $20 for a can of SPRAYMAX clear 2K. Its pro-quality catalyzed clear in a spray can. Rock hard crystal clear, Ive used it before with awesome results, provided you realize that tedious prep work is 95% of the job. But you absolutely cannot breathe it, need very good ventilation and a respirator.

Great job on the airbox, I just did the same thing. FYI, you can get that cloth infused rubber on Amazon in small patches if someone ever wanted to put new rubber on. Use a rotary wheel cloth cutter, like a pizza wheel to cut it.

There were Husky Club newsletters in the Tech area that gave measurements to layout and position the panel area you need to mask. I am glad I downloaded all of them and burned onto a CD as reference material.

I just checked and they are still not available.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/husky-club-newsletters-volumes-1-through-38.4048/

I copied the original Husky Club newsletter layout for my 78 tank many years ago. It works perfectly. Not sure about how the re-sizing goes once it's copied a few times.

I looked and those newsletters go to a page that says server not found.
I have a little of the white stripe left and I think I can use that as a guide.