'77CR250 racer resto

slong as the chain is good, shouldn't be an issue where the wheel runs ....as long as its not toooo far out of whack with the front one (weird turn in apparently)

The distance you need to shift will dictate whether or not you need longer spoke, likely if Buchanan's cut the spoke end flush with the end of the nipple. If you need to shift more than a mm or 2 you will need longer spoke. The Husqvarna pattern is difficult to replace one spoke at a time with. As I recall it is a cross 3 or cross 4. One of the ML shop manuals shows how to relace the rear and front wheels

Lots of progress this weekend, looking like a bike finally, Ill get some pics. Question on front axle. Its been so long since I took this bike apart, I cant remember if the front axle sticks out a bit from each side of the fork, or it I have the wrong axle. When wheel is centered, each end of axle sticks about about 3/8 (the distance from the fork to the underside of the hex bolt on the axle). I can do a KTM wheel with my eyes closed, but man did I butcher the paint on the ends of the forks putting that front wheel on...

On the 35mm forks the axle should not protrude from the end of the sleeve nut clamped in the fork leg. I would have to check because I think both axle caps are closed end and the axle itself is short.

Jim I did not mean that the axle was showing through the axle cap - yes both "caps" are closed. What I meant was the axle appears longer than it needs to be. In other words, if you fully screwed on the axle caps to the axle, the length of that axle assembly is longer than the width of the forks. About 3/8" of the axle caps are showing on each outboard side of the forks. I know you have to slide the assembly to center it, but don't remember that much "slideable" area showing.

You seem to have an axle for the 40mm forks. Those are longer. I found out myself with a donor wheel that came off a 40mm bike and tried to use the axle on the 35mm forks I am putting on the 78 390WR I am building

Son of a b*tch. I'll measure it up this evening to confirm. Please let me know if anyone knows length of a 35mm axle, end cap to end cap.

Ok, lets analyze this. I compared the axle to two others I have and the overall length, as well as the length of the "slide-able" portion of the end caps are the same. Those three axles supposedly came off 70's bikes. There is a chance that all three had 40MM axles, but that seems very unlikely.

Here is a pic with the wheel centered and axle screwed down but it bottom on the spacer leaving what seems to be too much of the axle cap:


Here is a pic with the same axle in the forks without any wheel - looks like overall width is fine, only a little overhang of the end caps, which I assume is designed that way to allow centering of the wheel a bit:



So I'm thinking mis-matched spacers and/or brake plate? Here's the spacer that came with the bike/wheel, 20MM long, and it looks like what is in the parts diagram for a '77CR. If its not the spacer, then did Husky use different length axle caps?



EDIT: While that spacer looks like the one in the parts diagram, I cross-referenced the part no. 1516536-01 to a NOS spacer listed on ebay and it is different:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-1...ash=item2c9d2ce644:g:JFgAAOSw9N1VkXQZ&vxp=mtr

Cripes!

Yeah this is stressing me out. So many combinations. hoping someone can respond with measurements for axle caps and spacers. Starting to wonder if the hub is correct.

You've gotta love the old Husqvarnas where things sometimes didn't change for years. The parts list for my 1970 400 calls for the same spacer 15-16-536-01 and cap/ nut 15-16-084-01 as your 77 250CR. The spacer is 12mm long and the cap is 63.8mm long. The early 400s and 450s, 1970 - 1974 use the same spacer in case it helps you find one [AT(the early 250s used a different part #, possibly due to a smaller brake drum). Here are some pictures for reference.

By the way, I also have a front wheel from a 1972 450 (calls for same part # as noted above) and that spacer is also 12mm long. The one on Ebay doesn't look like mine.

Thanks SteveJ this helps. My end caps were all 63.8MM so that confirms that the end caps were all the same so that is not the issue. Gotta be that spacer, or I have the wrong hub, or incorrect wheel bearing sleeve or combo of those three. I saw your spacer on a pre-74 axle on ebay and took a chance for $13.

One more request - can someone measure their wheel bearing stack on a 1970's CR rim? I'm talking the measurement from the outside of one bearing to the outside of the other bearing. Use a stick if you don't a Vernier.

Looks like the axle end caps do stick out, according to a poster in an alternate thread, so I may have been chasing a problem that was not a problem. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/wheel-spacer-on-77cr250.86209/#post-607224

How about kill switch routing? PO seems to have had it routed incorrectly, coming straight off handlebars and down into the tank on the left side. I'm thinking it should go down handlebar, over top triple (ie between numberplate and top triple), cross the steering stem then under the tank on the right side? Tried looking at pics and I see no kill wire on the left side of the tank in any of them.

Finally sorted the rear brake pedal. The entire assembly had been butchered by PO - worn or poorly fabricated bushings, wrong size brake arm, missing bracket. This was the final piece - PO did not understand how the brass bushing worked and must have fabricated a press fit brass bushing. Not only did it not rotate, but it was the same width as the bore it fit into, so the bolt could not be tightened down without restricting movement of the pedal. I had to drill the old bushing out, it would not budge. I went with the more modern brass bushing with O-rings on each side. Very smooth and stable now.

Is that bushing an over the counter item?

Bill502, that bushing is available at HVA factory, maybe at other vintage parts sites as well, but it is an OEM part.

So my kickstart lever hits the shifter lever at the bottom of the stroke - seems like a disaster waiting to happen. Was this the original design, or am I missing some form of stopper? Kicker appears correct for the engine and matches the picture in the parts fiche.

Double checked again and there is no way that my kicker will clear the shifter. I cant imagine that husky designed it this way, so wondering if I have a mismatched clutch cover/shifter shaft/kicker shaft. Anyone with a 76 or 77 that can check their kickers, that would be great.