83 CR500, here begineth the lesson

I'm sure the the 2mm before TDC is to take out the effect of the plug being offset.

Sunrise over the mancave reveals a new brake torque arm to be experimented with. The wife may think now summers coming she might get the conservertory back. I think not....

New NOS chain guide. Can you not see it? On the seat there.. gratuitous intermarque thread hijack!!!
Been pissing some ramblers off today, nice weather for giving them a chance to comment on the condition of the tread on my front tyre as it passes at head height...

What the hell is that?

It's a new old stock chain guide..?

No I was talking about the bike. A "Naked" Ktm that is a first.
Looks like a fun bike to ride.

The 2mm is a direct non-offset dimension . Any angular placement will require trig calaculation to correct the actual placement of the 2mm BTDC. So when I setup the replacement flywheel on my Cota 349 I used the sparkplug port that was true perpendicular to the head plane. Because of the high dome in the head I had to extend the indicator needle to reach the piston at least 4mm BTDC. I had choices of readings to use 1.5mm was standard and 2,5mm was recommended to soften the burstiness of the powerband, I deeply scribed reference marks on the flywheel labeled for the setting and a mark on the cranckcase to serve as a pointer. That eliminates the need for using the indicator for further timing adjustments

Nice work. I used to use a timing disc in degrees for 2 strokes so I might get hold of one and measure what I've got now at 2mm BTDC. Not sure that wil help working out what 1.8mm or 2.2mm will be in degrees (again, maths deficient) and the head is all lapped and torqued now. I don't think husky quoted timing in degrees for my motor ? Lets hope the 2mm is ok.

As regards your 6 bolt clutch..
i have been through the exercise of looking at later model clutches for my 510 84. I think youll find (hope im wrong..)
the later clutches have one less tooth on the kick gear at the back off the clutch which engages the idler (which is a tooth bigger) and thus the idler gear location is different on the cases . this allows faster kickover (great!) but unless you can change the crank cases (LC type) or left half crank case you are in trouble or relocate the hole for the idler gear shaft....
the 510 84 has a 5 bolt clutch, but also changes to a 6 bolt type (LC motor). the smaller kick gear required a change from a needle roller bearing set up to smaller dia. brass bush in the centre of the clutch. Hence it rang a bell on your post to surprize... good luck!!!

I think the parts are the same whether 2 or 4 stroke.

All the gears fit and work. I did rebush the kickstart but the gears were already sorted. This is the new case, a late 4T case. I don't like it but look at the clearance on that clutch! I have a thread on the main page to find out what its made from and I'll try to machine the clutch cover to try to 'date' it a bit. Hope to vapour blast both but may paint. Maybe it will grow on me.

The lower case looks like an HVA-Factory product. In which case that would probably be LM4, weldable. The top one, if it's a late case, then probably an alloy of some grade (I have no idea what). I doubt if it is Mag.

oh thats good..!! Did you change the clutch/gear shaft as well? Again im refering to 4stroke - and the earlier shafts held the clutch basket on with a circlip and the later ones were a threaded type. I think the clutches are a little sub par (or require regular attention) on the open bikes so a worthy upgrade!!

Actually I can see the circlip on second look.. im guessing only the 4 stroke got the revised kick ratios then..maybe it is possible to graft a 2 stroke clutch onto the 4 stroke.

mag is always darker than al. and if you are machining or drilling is a differnt texture, which is hard to put into words, because al. has so many variants too. but its always comes of in small chunks (like al weld) never get curls. not that helps you with your complete case!

A mate of mine has that late clutch case on his 84 4 stroke and i think he had to use a 610 kick start as well, some problem with the earlier one, not 100 %sure though.

Yes it's a circlip. I had to make up a new spacer washer to eliminate a load of play.



I machined the 1/2 crank case to get the bush I made in and it was very different from machining ally. Lots of speed and no coolant, it is different.



I do though have to take 0.35mm off the kickstart stub in the case so may get some idea? Hoping someone here will just know.

by the look of at that ktm there's an inner hooligan in you just waiting to cut loose on the husky... probably will need all the clutch you can give it...

hmmm hooligan and very scarry brakes

I think hopping from a Beringer 6 pot on a 320mm rotor straight to a Husky TLS will be a most enlightening experience. My new kevlar jeans arrived yesterday.

Got tomorrow off work to get rolling. Just looked at the rear tyre and found the tyre guy has used his initiative in tyre choice and fitted a 150 instead of 140 like I asked. Won't fit with the chain. AAAAAAAAAAAAArrrrrrrggggghhhhhhhh Fek.

Tyre being changed, clutch case painted and cover off for vapor blast. I'll put this engine in the frame one day soon.....

More gloss, oh yeah !!!

Looks better but Im still not sold. I trepanned a circle round the H to try do make it look older and found a fault in the casting, its nowhere near through though. I'll get the extra lug on today and get it fitted up proper.