1. Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

'86 WR400 rebuild

Discussion in 'Vintage Restoration Projects' started by Eurofreak, Jan 8, 2017.

  1. hva-factory CH Sponsor

    Location:
    uk
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    Husqvarna 510TE , 300WR Etc...
    Eurofreak likes this.
  2. Joe Chod Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    upstate NY
    Personally, I like the DC Plastic. Many reasons. first, where are you going to get a full set of Enduro plastic for just over $200? Second, yeah yeah, the finish is not glossy and the form may need some trimming of shaving to fit spot on but unless a show bike you are gonna get it scratched up and not "glossy" in a short time. And lastly, They make stuff no one else does or in as we see here....will make. Try calling Acerbris and see if they will make a panel for you from yours without an insane molding charge. Pretty good if you ask me....just my 2 cents
    rwgregory, Eric The Leg and Eurofreak like this.
  3. Eurofreak Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Western NY
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1986 TE 510, 1982 CR250, 2008 WR250
    Other Motorcycles:
    70's Triumph , Bultaco , Maico, etc
    True dat. Happy there's a reasonable place to get plastic
  4. Eric The Leg Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Currently Tacoma, WA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1986 WR400, 1985 WRX400, 1979 WR250
    Other Motorcycles:
    83 Kawasaki KZ 440
    As the one who first mentioned them, you know where I stand. Pragmatic, affordable, usable. Their plastics put bikes back on courses. I do think they should make the right side panel on the 85-86 as a 2-piece so it retains the filter cover functionality, but who knows, maybe nobody has asked them to do that.
  5. jimspac Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Connecticut
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    82 250WR, 82 430WR, 84 250WR, 85 400
    Other Motorcycles:
    86 400WR, 82 Montesa Cota 349
    There are a few good rattlecan paints for plastics that work very well on DC Plastics as long as you wetsand(400 or finer) for smoothness and to promote adhesion. I have gotten great result restoring some sunwhipped Acerbis fenders and panels for my 84 250 rebuild using Rustoleum paint for plastic. On both OEM and DC I use Bulldog adhesion promoter before applying paint If you have spray guns, you can use automotive paint with a flex agent. That will give you the choice of any automotive color made
    Eurofreak likes this.
  6. Eurofreak Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Western NY
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1986 TE 510, 1982 CR250, 2008 WR250
    Other Motorcycles:
    70's Triumph , Bultaco , Maico, etc
    I'll try that. My plastic is good but could be spiffier. All different shades of white
  7. Eurofreak Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Western NY
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1986 TE 510, 1982 CR250, 2008 WR250
    Other Motorcycles:
    70's Triumph , Bultaco , Maico, etc
    Also looking for a front axle bracket- hold the axle to the fork.
  8. hva-factory CH Sponsor

    Location:
    uk
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    Husqvarna 510TE , 300WR Etc...
  9. Alistair Frisby Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1986 WR400 LC
    Other Motorcycles:
    Triumph 750 Trident
    Helpful - many thanks.
  10. Alistair Frisby Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1986 WR400 LC
    Other Motorcycles:
    Triumph 750 Trident
    Hi, For the castellated fork nut (the one that goes down inside the steering head)…is there a special Husq tool for that? Thanks, AF
  11. Alistair Frisby Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1986 WR400 LC
    Other Motorcycles:
    Triumph 750 Trident
    Many thanks. Appreciate knowing other Husky folk near by. Cheers
  12. Alistair Frisby Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1986 WR400 LC
    Other Motorcycles:
    Triumph 750 Trident
    Hi, For the castellated fork nut (the one that goes down inside the steering head)…is there a special Husq tool for that? Thanks
    Eurofreak likes this.
  13. Eurofreak Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Western NY
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1986 TE 510, 1982 CR250, 2008 WR250
    Other Motorcycles:
    70's Triumph , Bultaco , Maico, etc
    Sorry Alistair, I don't know. Try posting the question in the vintage forum.
  14. Eric The Leg Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Currently Tacoma, WA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1986 WR400, 1985 WRX400, 1979 WR250
    Other Motorcycles:
    83 Kawasaki KZ 440
    I've tended to go after those with a screwdriver and light hammer or mallet. Pound gently on each of the surfaces until it comes loose. If it's really stuck on there, you could probably make a spanner out of an old mower blade or chunk of similar gage steel. If I remember right, it's not visible so the main concern is not making any burrs to come loose and knock out your steering bearings.
    2premo likes this.
  15. 2premo Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Northern NV
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    98 WR360, 1987 WR430, 1988 XC430
    Other Motorcycles:
    Sherco 300, 2002 KTM 380EXC
    there is also or was a socket available, but a screwdriver and gentle tapping :thumbsup:
  16. suprize Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Bendigo, Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR 400, bike in a box Moto Villa 350
    Other Motorcycles:
    ktm 300
    I use a solid punch and a nylon hammer
  17. Eurofreak Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Western NY
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1986 TE 510, 1982 CR250, 2008 WR250
    Other Motorcycles:
    70's Triumph , Bultaco , Maico, etc
    Installed my new clutch pack and springs. Warm enough yesterday to take it out quick. I can roost now! However, the power is a little disappointing. No wheelie inducing hit like the 82 250. My 300 hits a bit harder. Wonder if I still have some slippage?
  18. ruwfo Administrator

    Location:
    NJ
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1980 390CR, 1982 430CR, 1984 400WR
    Other Motorcycles:
    1985 250XC, 2016 FJ-09
    However, the power is a little disappointing... I remember my 86 400 was a torque monster, slow steady power
    but it would climb anything in the woods, no winding it up, like a tractor...
  19. Eric The Leg Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Currently Tacoma, WA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1986 WR400, 1985 WRX400, 1979 WR250
    Other Motorcycles:
    83 Kawasaki KZ 440
    I'm a pretty big guy and on my 400 I can run my front wheel up by simply straightening my arms and rolling the throttle up through about 3rd gear.
    While I don't generally ride wheelies, once you hit about a 15 degree angle, should just be a matter of keeping the throttle rolled.
    Looking back at your photos, your silencer/spark arrestor don't look like what I'm used to seeing on an '86. the exhaust hole at the back looks like it could be a little small. Any chance you've got some exhaust restriction there?
  20. Eurofreak Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Western NY
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1986 TE 510, 1982 CR250, 2008 WR250
    Other Motorcycles:
    70's Triumph , Bultaco , Maico, etc
    Rufwo that what it feels like. I've had two KTM 300's and a KTM 360. Guess I expected a little more big bore. I will also be checking the jetting as the weather warms.
    Eric, it looks stock to me but hard to say. I pulled it apart and repacked it after cleaning it. Not real quiet.
    As a comparison the 82 CR would hit the main jet and up comes the wheel. I reduced the main jet two sizes to stock and it still comes up quickly.
    Riding the 400 around the field a couple of times I hit the throttle and it accelerated pretty hard but the front end stayed planted. It roosts now but the wheel doesn't come up.
    What is the stock jetting? Maybe it has been changed-I just cleaned everything and put it back together.