Yesterday I decided to go the “two cold weld components way”. I made a small amount with “Nural 21” and then I put it where I show in the pics. I made it a bit longer than necessary so that it get stronger and get stuck better. I don’t know how much it will last. Time will tell. Another solution, of course, is Rotax's idea and also the “inverted hook” that RDTCU propose. I’m looking forward to see how you make it. You're right. In fact, I'm aware that I will have to hold it by hand when it goes from vertical to horizontal position. Let's see how it works...
Good work overall, but I suspect that hand held retraction of the stand is going to get old quite fast. I tend to have a pretty obsessive attention to details out of whack, so surprised I've not noticed this issue with my stand. I'm taking it out for a ride today and will have a closer look. I know it's not hitting my swing arm, but hadn't thought to look at if it's hitting the peg bracket. Oh - your chain looks to be on the tight side, but it may just be the pic.
Looks good. I checked mine over the weekend- hoping it would explain some clatter I've heard over time. On my TE the sidestand doesn't touch the bracket nor the swing arm...guess I'm lucky or the bracket just sits out slightly further.
Hi I'm not sure if I've understand. If by "is going to get old" you mean "I'm going to be lazy at" may be you're right. In fact, in my ride yesterday it was kind of a pain in the neck having to take control of the stand by hand. Lucky you about what you comment on reply 24. The fact that my stand is the one from TE450 could explain that I have to make some mods... Regarding to the chain, although is gold colour, yes, I have to admit that it needs to be cleaned and greased
Thank you It's better solution that mine. But I wanted to have "that piece" when the stand is horizontal but not at vertical position. Why? Because I guess that as it will let the stand more vertical,it also will make the bike to stay straight, and I don't want that because I'd have to cut and weld again the side stand..
Yes, that is what I was suggesting- that taking control of the stand by hand would become a pain quickly. Now there may be some misunderstanding about the chain. I wasn't commenting on it being dirty- it looks to me as though it may be too tight. Again I could be wrong- it could just be the picture. Forgive me if I am stating what you already know, but you want it a little loose so that when the swing arm moves through its path of travel the chain doesn't go super tight and stress your counter shaft/seal (in other words when the swing arm is flat/horizontal to the ground then your rear axle and counter shaft are furthest apart, so conversely they're closer when the swing arm is at rest...so you don't want your chain tight then.)
That chain does look a little tight. Check out the cover on the relays under the seat, it should have a label that shows you the easy way to check tension. I normally just sit on the bike and slide back to the tail until the swingarm is flat and kick the chain with my heel to see if there is still slack
Thank you both for the advice and the interest. Now I understand what you meant. Normally I’m pretty careful concerning to chain adjustment and although I have to admit that in the pic it’s seems that is quite tight, it’s not. As you can see in this pic, I have marked the point where I have to check the “12mm distance” with a marker, and when I press up the chain I have 12mm (not in the pic, of course, because I’m not pressing up the chain). I think this is the way to adjust the chain. If I’m not right, please let me know
I have to admit that my "solution" is not good. Two days later the "two cold weld components" step by step has fallen apart. So I don't recommend my "own solution" to anybody
Hi Based on Rotax's idea finally I've made what I show you in the pics. The goal was not to let the side stand to go all it's way up but let it to go all its way down (I hope you understand me ) So this new solution I will call it "1/2 Rotax's idea" . Better explained on pics that on words... The plate is approximately 8mm wide and 2,5mm thickness. The screw is a "self - screwing 3'9X19mm" (although finally I had to cut it because there was not a human way to screw it all) Before screwing the screw I made a drill with a 3mm drill, as you can see in the pic. I also added special metal glue to the plate, to improve the grip.
I'll generously grease the area to reduce friction. Besides I made an special "V" shape to the plate in this area to reduce friction I hope it bears all the "inercia". Again, the time will tell...
Hi Rotax Is still working your solution? Mine, step by step the stand has been gradually rising due to wear ...
The definitive solution to the problem is, however, obtained by bending the aluminum stand in this manner.
You guys are engineering the hell out of this thing. Though I've not done it all I plan to do is to add a teflon or hard plastic slider piece (cut in the shape of the foot pad) and self tap that into the underside of the foot (and counter sink the screw, of course.)
The point is that we have to avoid two things: 1.- The stand to touch with the passanger support 2.- The stand to touch with the swimarm Once the stand touch with the passanger support, even if you avoid to scracth it by insert some kind of plastic or teflon protection, the stand will move innerwards (to the swingarm direction) and when you jump wiht the bike, the stand will touch with the swingarm...
Rotax, can you tell us what was wrong with your first "solution"? I can see it is still in the stand...
the important thing is to make a 2 mm stainless steel thickness that supports the side stand in "all-open" and "all-closed" you have made a thickness to support it when the side stand is 'all open'. Also to support the bike well, it is necessary to "straighten" the side stand using a hydraulic crick. look at these photos. they are made in a few minutes
