All 2st About the Mikuni/Keihin swap:

In the right direction

I think ya'll got me in the right direction. With temps around 73 degrees this morning I jumped on switching to the red needle, 3rd pos and it ran great just around the shop and gravel road! I think the slight bog may be gone too!? I'll be riding this weekend and temps will be in the 80's so I'll get a better idea. I may have room for an even leaner main jet. Jetting right now: 175 main, 42 pilot, red needle 3rd pos, AS 2 turns out. Cool! Nothing like a finely tuned WR125!

I just did the PWK38 AS swap from Kelly on my 08 CR125 and am super please with the results. So far runs way better then I ever got it with the TMX. I have a slight bog sometimes on quick throttle snap but turning in the air screw in seems to help, still playing with the jetting.

I'm looking to get a powernow, is the correct part number for these PN38PWKa/s or PN38PWKa/g

Thanks
-martin

I have been having slighy difficulty starting up my 2009 WR 250. My riding group has mentioned to get a size smaller pilot on the stock Mikuni. Do you think the Keihin carb and JD jet kit package is the way to solve my jetting problems or should the smaller pilot fix this problem?

hello! You will get a stronger engine from low revs together with a carb that is easier to jet if you buy the Keihin. If you buy it with the JD jettingkit you will be even more pleased and get a bike that starts on first or second kick everytime. Just read about all us who have taken this route! Kelly at Motosportz will help you i´m sure! Very good and fast service even to Sweden!

Johnny.

HuskyNJ,

Don't make the mistakes that I have and throw good money after bad trying to make the TMX work well consistantly. Just plop down your hard earned nickles on the JD PWK from Kelly and avoid wasting your precious riding time jetting that finicky *&()(%$#$(^&^&.

Walt

DITTO.

This is hands down the best mod you can do to a Husky two stroke, and would be even at twice the money. The performance improvement and jetting consistency can't be matched by the TMX.

If you arent ready to upgrade the carby a leaner pilot for $5 ? is still the best bang for your buck mod you can do

Well, I just ordered the carburetor swap from Kelly with the JD kit for my 2009 Husqvarna WR 250! I am a complete jetting newbie so I am looking to find some kind of specs before it arrives this weekend. I mainly ride in the New Jersey Pine barons in south Jersey but also go to the central and eastern Pennsylvania rock runs (ECEA hare scramble series). Now when I receive the carb this week, what should be the first setting to try before heading out to the woods? My riding skill is A/AA level if that matters.

I'm going to say the JD blue - #3 / 48 pilot / 178 main / Air screw at 1-3/4 open for a good starting point.

I found these two links for my riding locations.. http://www.netstate.com/states/geography/mapcom/pa_mapscom.htm and http://www.netstate.com/states/geography/mapcom/nj_mapscom.htmThe type of riding would be race pace at the hare scrambles and 80% of my riding is in southern New Jersey. Does this help anybody out?

After looking over some of my records, I'm going to revise my suggestion since you are a A/AA rider:

JD blue #4 / 48 pilot / 180 main / 1-3/4 air screw.

Thanks for the suggestion MOTORHEAD. I will try that setting for the first ride out with this new carb.. after I'll find all of those specific parts settings in the package with the Keihin and start from there. Hopefully I only really need to mess around with the air screw on the outside from your suggestion and not have to make any internal changes after putting it all together (The air screw can be adjusted and accessed from the outside correct? And my other newbie question is, how do I know exactly what 1-3/4 is for the air screw is? Is it labeled or 1-3/4 turns?) Out of curiousity and for my own personal knowledge, what would the #4 slide change from the #3 exactly do for how the overall carb runs?

In in NJ too riding the same areas and I'm 175 blue 4th 42 pilot.

I think the 175 main is still a little rich.

Air screw is the number of turns open from fully closed.

The #3 / #4 are the clip position on the needle. #1 is on top, #5 is the bottom.

I'm not going to guarantee that these numbers are going to make you happy. But they should be pretty close.

I'm assuming that your A/AA status has you up on the main a lot and you'll want a strong transition coming off the bottom through the mid range. And that you use good throttle control skills.

If you lean out the pilot and needle clip too much, you will give up a bunch of low end torque, just because the exhaust will run hotter and speed up the exhaust gas flow. That will throw the pulse wave timing off with the pipe and you loose low end and the incredible roll on power this motor can make.

If you are totally on the gas or off, then you may not like this.

This thread is getting LONG!

I've got a few rides in with the CEK needle (Thanks Wally! Whom I still owe for it :bonk. Anyway, the first ride was in the forest.... (1000-2500', 60's and relatively humid) 45/175/CEK #2. I really had no complaints, but the forest is 80% off idle riding with the occasional blast down the fire road. Although at the end of the day it was blubbering like a baby on the bottom and I thought my plug was fouling.

Next ride was in the desert (2200-4500', 70's and slightly humid). 42/172/CEK #2. This ride was all over the place. Lots of low speed technical riding followed by a 2 mile blast though the wide open. It was here that I realized just how boggy it was on the bottom. It was like the motor could not handle all the fuel being delivered until about 1/4-3/8 throttle and then it would take off like a bat outa hell. I think I liked the Yami-spec N3EJ needle better in the WR. Remember that I also have the PC pipe and silencer, which seems VERY dependent on close jetting

To summarize:
172-42-CEK #2 - boggy until about 3/8 throttle and then runs like a raped ape

175-45-CEK #2 - Didn't notice the bog so much, but was riding mostly off-idle speed trails. Bike did blubber badly on low end during ride back to truck. Felt like plug was fouling out.

Is the CEL needle leaner as a whole or just part of the taper?
I want something leaner all-around vs. the CEK.

Go with the CEL , just got back from China Hat worked great. It is just leaner from idle to 1/4 throttle

Just for the record, I'm running:

48 pilot / 175 main / N3VE #4 / 1-3/4 Air screw / #7 slide

Mainly race at less than 1000'.

Bottom end is super strong, the roll on is awesome and it pulls out to a scary fast top end. Starts better and runs the smoothest of all the combinations I tried.

BTW; These are racing specs.

Edit: I've changed some of my jetting and moved this post to the 2-stroke jetting database. Check it out there if you're after some ideas for a WR360 with a PWK 38mm.

Thanks for clarifying that up for me a bit! My riding style is either on the gas wide open or off the gas (usually mid-high rpm style rider). For the tighter woods, it is usually the same (using the throttle to find traction and then back hard on the gas) but do use more throttle control in the initial burst through these sections which is the same idea behind all the usual sections when I am also mainly riding with the on / off gas style.