All 2st About the Mikuni/Keihin swap:

10-4

It's about three turns out at the moment

Thanks

I would suggest laying the bike over on it's side momentarily and make sure you have fuel flowing into the bowl. Fuel should run out on the ground. Sometimes needles stick closed, especially on a new carb.
GP

Oh yea, like Kelly said, turn the air screw in 1.5 or less.
GP

I think he meant the idle screw, air screw is 2 out but I'll try your advice
Thanks

Yes, it takes a LOT of idle screw to get the thing to start right. But, that isn't totally uncommon for a PWK, either.



BTW- This is the specs from the MXA artical on their WR300 build up;

"Carburetor: Wyatt Seals sent us one of Glenn Kearny’s 38mm Keihin PWK carbs (with a 162 main and 48 pilot) to replace the stock Mikuni TMX carb."

Finally managed to bump start it. Idle screw all the way in. Way Way rich 175 main 45 pilot had to take the air screw completley out to get it to idle.

The 162 Main and 48 pj on GK's bike is interesting. Wonder what fuel and oil he's running.

I have VP110 and Motul @50:1 in mine

Here in Sweden we have about 20 degrees celsius now and i have a 40 pilot and that,s perfect. I have 175 main and EEL needle in 2nd slot. My bike is very good with this. Sealevel btw.

johnny

Johnny,
What fuel and oil mix are you running?

Hello! I have 98 octane fuel and 3% oilmix and almost no spooge. My bike starts at first or maybe second kick without choke and idles perfect directly at around 20 degrees celsius that we have here now. Airscrew 1,5 turns out.

Johnny

and what needle (and needle position). that seems like pretty odd jetting to me, but perhaps a triple-taper needle would allow such a small mainjet.

Or it could have been a plant, knowing it would be looked at... wonder if they cranked it

I question the main jet size MXA specs, also. Misprint? Maybe a 172?

But, like moto said it could be a triple taper or something like that. An "E" taper needle would have a very small tip also, especially one with a short "L 1" length.

I had a 165 main, 45 pilot, and CEL needle in the middle on my WR250 and it absolutely ripped everywhere at sea level in my one ride there. It was about 45 degrees that day. Plug looked great and I almost looped it many times not being used to that extra pizzazz you have at sea level. Was especially strong on the low end to middle.

Walt

Motorhead - I put the carb and everything on my 09 WR 250. It started up no problem and then took it down my road to see how it felt. Once I tried to run through the gears, it would bog real bad when I tried to gun it. The idle was perfect when I originally started the bike, but then as I rode it even though it would start bogging then shut the bike off a few minutes later and it wouldn't restart. It currently has half a tank of gas in there. The bike now feels way more crisp off the bottom end so I was real surprised when the bike started bogging when I tried giving it more gas. Any ideas?

Current Settings: JD blue #4 / 48 pilot / 180 main / 1-3/4 air screw

I am at sea level elevation in southern New Jersey.

Are you sure you have the top screwed on correctly? It's easy to cross thread and it will feel like it's tight, but will leak air.

A bog is a lean condition. Make sure you don't have an air leak somewhere. You shouldn't be lean with those settings.


If you can't find anything try this; Drop to the 175 main, open the air screw to 2.5 turns open and see what that does.

That is actually leaner.

Did you see my PM?

Did it rev okay until you hit full throttle? When I 1st installed my PWK (36mm) on my WR250 I had a 178 MJ and the bike would pull until I hit the MJ and then is was flat. I started stepping down a main jet size at a time and it went from flat to blubbery to good to go. Apparently the MJ was very rich when I started....

I am pretty sure everything is properly screwed in. I had my dad help me with the carb but I will double check right now. And yes, I just checked my PMs (Sorry, I never check them before on this website). I figure I'll try one or two more times before calling because I wouldn't want to impose for you helping me out so much with this jetting stuff. So for right now, I will try putting in the 175 main and 2.5 turns after double checking for any air leaks.

Actually, I'm banking on that you are mistaking a bog for it being fat on the main, as kzoo suggested.

I purposely suggested a little fatter main, just to play it safe.

It's not a problem if you call.

Just tried putting back in the 175 main jet and it had the same problem.. then it stalled after it began blubbering really bad. Also re-checked all of the screws and everything seems secure. It is doing exactly what Kzoo mentioned (sorry didn't see your post earlier). I have the 170 main jet.. do you think I should try that out? I have the 170, 178, and 180 main jet.. I currently have the 175 main jet in there.