Keep us up to date on your opinions and overall performance. Looking to do a new air filter and exhaust change come Spring 2014 and like to weigh all my options before pulling the trigger. My guess is better air flow like the K&N style filters with it being foam.
I see that its pre oiled which is good as it ill take a while to track down some cleaning and re oiling kit
I have had very bad experience with uni air filters. I have had 2 that after a year or so the foam begins to disintergrate and the foam falls off the base. The worst one completely crumbled into crumbs. I used proper filter oil and don't was in petrol. It may be to do with the fact that I lived in the Tropics where no flexible ureathanes survive more than a few years but cannot confirm this is the cause. It had bad experience with things such as ureathane hard flexible foam used in MTB forks as well. They would go hard then crumble. I would need to see flow diagrams to be convinced that foam filters flow better than DNA or K&N type filters, especially once they have some use. They do have better water blocking properties though , so for offroad with water crossings they would be first choice.
I bought two direct from Uni-Filter at link provided in this thread.....$27.23 each + $12.72 freight to Oklahoma. Arrived in just 5 days from Australia (amazing). Fits good, works great (so far). I did still use silicone adhesive to seal it to the plastic cage. No foam filter is going to flow as good as a pleated paper filter. But my bike is running very good with this one. Feels stronger than with my combo Uni pre-filter and pleated paper filter together. I think it's breathing better than when using that combination....though it served me well, without lacking performance during my recent 4,500 mile trip. HF
I took my bike out for it's first ride with the foam filter on the weekend. A 500km round trip. I have to say, I completely forgot about having changed the paper filter to foam, and I didn't notice any difference to the bike's performance, or to the fuel economy. I did feel that the rubber section didn't quite sit in the plastic holder as snugly as the original filter, and wanted to slip out, so I added a couple of strips of masking tape just to hold it nicely in place. I'm sure some silicone sealer would have done a better job, but I couldn't be bothered waiting 24hours for it to cure.
I don't wait 24 hours. Only give it 1 to 2 hours, it cures plenty good enough by then to hold it in place. At least the stuff I use does (RTV Clear Silcone Adhesive or Clear Gasket Maker). Color doesn't matter, you could use any Silcone gasket material from a squeeze tube, I imagine. HF
Anybody know if I can safely use my NoToil oil or cleaner for a UNI filter? I read somewhere about differences between manufacturers causing glue to delaminate or foam to disintegrate. Thanks in advance!
I did a google search and found some info from the NoToil manufacturer who suggests that their oil will affect the glue in Uni Filters. However, this advice is a bit confusing, because there is a UNI Filter in the USA and a UNI Filter in Australia, and the TR650 UniFilter comes from UniFilter Australia (completely different company). Might be worth contacting the people at NoTOil and asking, but I think it was only an issue with the USA made Uni filters.
Can anyone say wether the Unifilter solves the air box design issue ? I've just checked mine and done the silicone fix as there was some dust getting by the stock set up…. I don't quite see how the silicone will solve the issue of the missing top section of the air box flange though. Can anyone enlighten me ? Thanks in advance.
I don't quite see how the silicone will solve the issue of the missing top section of the air box flange... You're right, it won't. I made a comment in the other thread (K&N Filter, I think) 'bout a possible fix but it's low priority for me b/c practically no off-road use.
This seems very sensible. I was wondering the same thing in regards to the sealing as I checked the fit as I was sliding the filter back in last night and it seems to compress the edges of the filter firmly against the flanges. I still don't get why the top flange would be missing though as surely here the compression effect won't work and we will have a gap. I thought that maybe it seals better than we think but then I can clearly see where dust has been getting past mine and into the air box so it obviously doesn't work. I have read on the ADV site that some guys have done exactly as you suggested and made up aluminium sections to act as the fourth flange although apparently it is very hard to do due to the access. I was wondering wether you know of anyone who has contacted Husqvarna in regards to this issue as it seems like a massive warrantee claim just waiting to happen.
It has been pretty dusty lately & I've just pulled the Uni Filter. I used silicone to secure the filter to the bracket & red grease all over the place to trap the dust. A little bit of dust came over the top however so it's time to investigate options. I've played around with some ali angle but it appears to be a difficult task to add another flange in a way that I can be sure won't interfere with the air filter or its housing. I think I might spend tomorrow playing around with a couple of ideas.
My DNA filter with oil kit ($117) is on the way. What I was looking at yesterday is instead of mounting in the original holder, turn the filter around and mate it to the other side of the airbox. This will take some airbox modification, but looks to be enough room, and then make a clamping seal for the filter. I will take pictures when the filter arrives. I will still most likely use a prefiter element if I can make this work.
