AGAIN!!?? 630 radiator any one know a Area Rep

Evan's sells several different coolants and I'm unsure how far each one is good down to. Our coolant is good to -40°F and -40°C.
http://www.ziptyracing.com/xf-waterless-race-coolant/

If your Alexon radiators are anything like the ones I had on my 07 TE 450, you could pump ice water through them and it wouldn't make any difference. Both of mine sprung leaks from what appears to be vibration over time. Both had long cracks near mounting bolt holes. Other failures appear to have been similar.

I've got it back on the road runing the glycol pre-mix for now, I may switch to Engine Ice or the above mentioned ZIPTYRACING during summer. I have a long Beta test time though ot see how the DIP works out. The prior cracks took 1+ year to happen. Like I said I'll keep everyone posted.

Just bought a couple radiators off of Motorhead here that he picked up for a 2010 TC250. They were built thicker and a lot beefier than the Alexons, but now that I've got them in hand to compare, they are a direct replacement for the 630.

So it looks like if you can find some aftermarket TC250 radiators, they will fit.

NICE I'll keep that in mind and start looking. Somehting tells me that it's not an IF they break again its WHEN they break again.

Awesome if what RDTCU stated above holds these would work and they're the same price as the OEM rad's

I'll try to post some pictures up later next to the 630 radiators. I'm going by what Motorhead said as far as what they were originally for.

Here's a pic of the new ones, all the nipples, mounts and flange holes line up.

Interesting....I have water wetter in my bike but it still boils over....I might try this XF stuff....

Those Myers look nice, 1.5" thick too, nice and strong. They are backwards for me too, but I don't think having the cap on the other side of my bike hurts anything?

Water wetter works great for tarmac track bikes that cannot have glycol in their radiators.
I think one of the worst products I ever used was Engine Ice. Engine ice contains 7-10% water and because of this they have to put anti-corrosion additives and anti-foaming agents that thicken the formula. So what happens is that you end up boiling off the water and you are left with a thick syrup of about 140w gear oil which was quite interesting for me to try to drain out. XF is 100% pure propylene glycol, so it comes out in the same consistency as it goes in and no corrosion.

Good clarification point........entrance and exit points of the radiator.

The radiator inlet hose coolant temp from the engine is hotter than the radiator exit hose coolant temp back into the engine........which is the essence of the radiator........the coolant cools as it circulates past all the cooling fins and I think we will get diffferent readings at different points on the radiator whereas the engine reading points will run much closer to each other. No matter. Just so we don't boil.

Well, the left side sprang a leak again, I had it repaired only a couple months ago. This leak is in a different place. (on the front side opposite where the other leak was.)

Think I'm going to see if I can get it fixed and order these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-A...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6689bb5b&vxp=mtr from EBAY, any thoughts? They're made in China so I'm a little concerned.

RDTCU How are these holding up for you and did they bolt straight on?

Has anyone confirmed or denied if these fit on a te630? They look right but I havent found anything that says they will fit.

Still haven't had to resort to them. I had my last leak welded up.