Well it rained all day today so I didn't ride .... I did instal and compare new and old ... Stock reads 48f new reads 10f seems like a big difference to me being 38 degree drop ... When 20 is what it's supose to be ... What do y'all think?
I just checked again after leaving the stock one out of the air box and setting it beside the new one so the would be exposed to same air for a while ... Stock reads 44 now new one still 10 ... The temp does rise on both when exposed to hot air ... Can I just cut one of the new thermistor heads off to get a smaller drop in the temp reading?
You could end up with a dead short or open circuit which will bring the CEL on and a default temp reading for fueling.
Ok so I measured resistance and compared to the chart on previous post... 20c 68f .... Stock 6ohm modded one 15.44ohm 5c or real close 43f stock 10.95ohm modded 30.25ohm So it looks close to the chart .... When we are talkin 20 degree drop is that Celsius or Ferinheight?
44degF = 7degC 10degF = -12degC deltaT = 34degF or 19degC. Looks like thermistors will drop AIT around 20degC.
Well I'm pleased to report that after a 208 mile ride today the mod worked flawlessly ... Deff better midrange power/throttle response ....it's a must do mod so far for me ... I will keep you all posted ...
I have done this mod and it works great. I had the unstable idle and it easily stalled during off-idle acceleration. Both problems FIXED! Thank you for posting this!
First up a HUGE THANKS!! to all and any who keep coming up with all those wonderful fixes and ideas. Awesome! Been involved in the same thing, developing+ making parts for other owners etc with Aprilia Pegasos and V-Stroms over the last 15 years. Now...anyone else in AUS who's interested in this? Can buy the Thermistors as a 25 pack http://tinyurl.com/mubfvof and make 3 sets out of it. I just bought a spare IAT off German Ebay and can use that to start off with, making one up for myself. Then I'd mod my original and mail it to someone in Oz who'll mail me back theirs ....etc. Cost would most probably come to between A$40-45 incl. all postage....haven't worked it out properly, just going by the product pricing off that website. Save postage if you live in Melbourne's East and I can flip the ready-product across the fence. :-) Details can be done via email, no charges, just a straight 3-way split of the cost plus local postage within Oz... NZ maybe? This way everyone will keep riding and it's a 5min plug+play when the ERUPTION clogs your letterbox :-) Sorry for ramrodding the front door here and coming along with something like this as a noob...but some here know me well from other forums. Shoot me a pm or glitch_oz at yahoo dot com Cheers Pete
Maaaaaaate! When did you get your bike? I'd pay you the $30 (plus a beer for the original postage to you for the pack of 25 and not losing them across Bass Strait) for 8 thermistors which you could hand over to me in March, save postage. I did buy the Wuka King plug but still haven't installed it yet. Had bugger all time to ride the bike let alone tinker with it
From what I've seen, you can't/ shouldn't run the Wuka + this thermistor fix at the same time. You want to sell the Wuka then? Stood there with 500 bux in my pocket on the morning of the 31st Dec and thought to myself....well...if there's a cracker-deal to be had, it's NOW. Those guys wanna make their annual figures look good by flogging another bike to add to the tally (and keep their next years discount rates with the wholesalers/ importers etc), they'll sell at rock-bottom. They did! Paperwork's gone in to have it de-restricted (but I'll get the old parts) and it won't get rego'ed. I'll take my sweet time to set it all up and farkle it to death, organize a 21" front wheel and high guard, do all the fixes etc...then put it on the road late winter. Lose a few months of warranty, but not worried about it...not at that price. I'll be on the "Dishrack" for the 2 weeks in Tassie Lemme know about this exploda-thing here...
Yeah, may sell it, dunno. Having the thermistors gives me options I'll take 8 off you, if you get another taker for the other set and go ahead with the buy
Hi all, I'm new to the forum and the Terra, but I've been reading this and other TR improvement topics with great interest. I noticed that many people that do the eruption mod buy an additional AIT to do the mod on. I planned to do the same. But then I got thinking, what if I bought the additional AIT and instead of gutting it and soldering in the replacement thermistors, I would just put the 2 AIT's in series. It is less work, does not require soldering skills and results in a -15C temperature reading for a normal riding temperature range. It's not the -20C of the eruption mod, but should be sufficient for a significant improvement over stock. Add in an A/B switch and wire it so one circuit includes the second AIT and the other does not and you can flip between stock and -15C like on the Wuka. With the additional AIT, the switch and a couple of Bosch connectors you'd be able to put it together for about $20. I'm inclined trying that route, but all my electrickery knowledge dates back from high school 20 years ago and is probably a bit rusty so maybe I overlooked something. What do you guys think?
Electrickery wise, just take the resistance of the AIT and multiply by 2 for series. Graphing it out it does look like you'll get an approximately 15 deg C offset between 15 - 45C temps. While this will richen the mixture, I don't know by how much and how effective it will be. I don't know enough about the fuel mixtures to tell you. 6% richer seems to be the goal of the plugs and the eruption, whether somewhere in the zone of 3%-6% is still beneficial, perhaps it is?
Yes - What Tazzierob said. You won't follow the OEM R/T curve for a consistent 20C offset. You can plot it out & see for yourself. I didn't buy a second IAT - just modded the original, it's not a big deal. Soldering is easy & cheap, you can teach yourself in no time.
I have to chime in about the Eruption Mod. My modded IAT is working brilliantly. I get a bit of fuel suet (from running richer) on my exhaust outlets as others have noted. But, other than that the bike idles correctly, doesn't stall, no hiccups what so ever and I am still getting somewhere around 56/57 mpg (5 litres per 100kms).
If you want to play with a second temperature offset circuit, I'd recommend to do the Eruption mod THEN plug in another circuit that looks like this...
Thanks for that idea. That would work as well. You'd get the -20C of the eruption and depending on the choice of the 2nd (set of) NTC you could design it to the temperature drop you wanted. But other than getting the -20C drop of the eruption mod in stead of only -15C for 2 stock AITs in series, what is the benefit of putting them in parrallel? With both you can achieve a pretty consistent temperature drop over the normal operating range. (just curious, I like to understand stuff before I make a decision on which way to go)
I didn't follow your post completely so excuse me if I sound repetitive... the nice thing about this design is you can do the Eruption mod now, & work on the second circuit later, if you feel it's worth the bother. The other nice thing is everything can be returned to OEM using the plug connectors. The value of the second IAT/AIT has yet to be determined & it may turn out it only will maintain a specific offset for a limited temperature range, unlike the the 20C offset which maintains 20C over a very wide temperature range. I hope that makes sense. I think you may be missing this important detail, the original 5k NTC (or any other) has a non-linear temperature / resistance curve. This means you can't just add anything in series or parallel & get a consistent temperature offset (no matter what the real outside temperature is). This is the trick. You will see what I mean if you look at the T/R tables & do the math. You're right to want to understand this before you do it, & I'd say don't do it unless you build a table so you know you've selected an appropriate value(s) for the second IAT & know what the offsets are at any given temperature. Look at the tables I built in the orig post as an example. The second IAT may be one thermistor or it may be more or it may be both thermistors & a resistor, whatever it takes to get a consistent offset through the widest ambient temperature range. If you can wait I'll help you find something, it's sorta low on the priority list right now, also there are some smart electrical / electronic guys here that unlike me could come up with something without breaking a sweat.
