I read the thread on ADV. This raises the issue of whether the MM ECU will end up compensating for the change at part throttle. It's all stuff I remember from my dyno tuning days (used to run a dyno at a Ford tuning shop). When I had my Yamaha Stryker the mod to do was add a resistor to the ground wire of the O2 sensor. I guess that would help in closed loop idle area but not in open since the ECU isn't looking at it anyway. They were using a 1/4 watt 820k ohm resistor (or 825k ohm if you can get 1% tolerance resistors). I got 140 miles on my bike. Still waiting for that "omg it's so new" feeling to wear off. Any one of you gents want to try both?
You're talking 'bout the xied devices? Haven't looked into them, I think Quirky has some on his beemers with Bosch ECU's & is happy with them. Do they work on the MM? I have no idea but if I was gonna spend any more than maybe $80 USD I'd be look'in towards a PC. My feeling is if they're gonna market the stuff the least they can do is show dyno results. New feeling? Yeah I know, I think I'll wait another year before I think about offroad.
run-it, I've had an odd occurrence today. After several months of running the Eruption my bike is suddenly stalling and lean stumbling again. I decided to reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery overnight and I will try it again in the morning. My thought on this goes back to the original conversation I had with you regarding offsetting the AIT values with a second set of thermistors. I am not sure I want to do that but wanted to hear your thoughts on why you think this may have happened?
Ah...went back and re-read some posts. I somehow misinterpreted what an "xied" device was. So yeah that's what I was talking about haha All I need is someone to reverse-engineer the code (easy, right?!?!). The bike would benefit tremendously from more deltaTPS(accel pump) and set the O2 target window to a higher mV. You could probably leave the open-loop fuel table alone if you just gave it more deltaTPS fuel...
That sounds 'bout right to me but how to get inside it? Guzzidiag *may* work for limited functions, it works with various MM ECUs, the Aprillia RV4 boys are using it, something else on my list to look at...
Dunno, mine had a consistent case of the stalls & it hasn't returned. Cat & canister modded in the meantime but nothing else. You could check your IAT with an ohmmeter ( use the a resistance value to a corresponding temperature) to see that your build is intact. Does the MM negate open loop spoofers with time? I'd say it almost surely does not though it's possible to mitigate their effect. That would mean everyone with a 20C offset spoofer would have this happen to them, so at least there is a pool of people to poll. Hope that helps a little.
Mine's gotten more difficult to start, and I've had a lean stall or two recently with the eruption on mine. I didn't have a lot of the lean stalls before, but the starts were about the same as they are now. I'm thinking about resetting mine as well, swapping a stock AIT back in, and doing a few hundred miles on Saturday morning. I haven't done anything else to mine yet, intake and exhaust are still factory. Charlie, you have the pod-mod correct? I figure that could be possibly causing the added lean condition with the extra air flow (original air filter area is open, right? or is there a pre-filter there?) Overall, it is a worthwhile mod, but I'm really curious if it's like others have started to postulate that the ecu will adapt to the offset over time. Oh, and I'm still on the MOSS version I bought the bike with last February.
I have the pre-filter in place as well as the pod pre-filter sleeve. I also have the cats cleaned out and the cannister has been removed. Run-it I did check the values and they haven't changed since I built the AIT. This didn't happen overnight, I first noticed it when the temps warmed above 50* but it has gotten increasingly worse. I reset the ECU as described above haven't ridden yet. I will report back when I do.
I have the wukka and I have noticed it has been getting leaner as the weather is warming. I rode last weekend and it was a little over 100 degrees. I had a hard time starting the bike during the ride. Way too much cranking. I had the dreaded lean backfire while decelerating. I am headed to the mountains this weekend camping out at Silverwood lake. I will see what happens. I am thinking it might be time to get the pcv with auto tune. Let the pcv do its thing while the stocker does the grunt work.
Just did the eruption mod. It started, wooohooo . I'll take it for a ride in the morning. The temp gauge says about 4.5 degrees when it would normally say 24.5 so seems about right. (bike was warm in a garage so would be quite warm in the airbox) Just want to say thanks to Run-It.. really cool work you've done on that first post. It cost be a bit over $40.. Things are always more expensive in Australia. ============================== Took it for a ride today. not a sign of stalling. goes a little better, especially when cold, and is a little more responsive.
So, I did this mod last August. It worked wonders on the stalling at first. However, in the last week, I've had it happen a dozen times. So, tonight I pulled out the eruption and put a stock AIT I had bought when I did the mod in. Did the ecu reset and I'll see how it does tomorrow back in stock configuration. Something seems odd, nothing is wrong with the eruption, but the bike hasn't been running right for weeks now and kept getting worse. No changes have been made. Had probably 2-3k miles on the eruption
run-it. Can you give us your reason why the Eruption can or wont be "adapted out" when the O2 sensor is still in circuit? Logically thinking it will report a rich mixture and the ECU will adapt accordingly and lean off...or is that not how it all works.....? What about O2 emulators in the place of the O2 sensor.........?
The thinking of open loop spoofers is that the O2 will report rich upon transitioning into closed loop & adjust accordingly but during open loop the O2 doesn’t report at all so our spoofers go into full effect. I'm vaguely aware of the guy on ADV who looked into how his BMW RT (I think) interacted with his Bosch ECU, & may have concluded something to the effect that open loop spoofers would be rendered less effective over time if used solely by themselves but would otherwise be helpful if used in conjunction with an O2 spoofer. I looked into this a bit more tonight & find that the trait may be applicable to some degree or another with the MM ECUs as well. The Lambda works to correct the richness in closed loop but there’s a long term accumulating function within the ECU that works to modify the entire map to some extent. So yes, it turns out it very well may be applicable to some degree or another with our bikes too. Though I can't say with certainty that is the case, the effectiveness of any open loop spoofer used, Booster, Wuka, Juice, Eruption may be reduced. Yet I still have no more stalls, some darkness around the muffler & apprx 3,500 miles since my mod. I'll try to learn a bit more as time permits.
Well, I've run 2 tanks through since going back to stock. I need to fill up after work, so I don't quite know what I pulled with mileage on this tank. Anyway, Saturday morning I ran 350 miles with the Eruption and was averaging around 50 mpg, I had numerous stalls, seemed to get worse as the day went on. Going back to stock after the reset, I filled up again at the same pump as Saturday morning (since I lost the trip meter when resetting the ECU I didn't track tank 2 from Saturday to Monday night). I rode to work then road another 130 miles after work, and got 60 mpg. So, a 10 mpg increase, definitely running leaner. When I left for work Tuesday morning, the first ride of the back to stock mode, the stalls were horrendous. Like really bad, 6 or so in the first few minutes. It got better the more I road it and I have been riding it everyday. It's still stumbles, but not so bad as right after the reset. What I'm thinking is that with regular resets, the eruption should stay in good working order, pretty much nullifying any learning that would be done. However, I have only had my cables off my battery twice in the time I've owned it. Once adding battery tender cables at about 5 miles. Once Monday night. I didn't do a reset when I did the eruption initially. Leaving for a 5500 mile trip in 2 months has me really interested in finding a solution. If I have to reset a time or two on the trek, it's not the end of the world, although yes it is inconvenient.
I was wondering just now, has anybody spoofed to a higher temp and noted the results? Just curious as to what the bike would settle into after time.
This is not a solution. The solution is installing Pulstar spark plugs and installing a Dynaboost commander: http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-DYNO-BOO...0-R-/151025357417?hash=item2329d01269&vxp=mtr With these two modes my bike runs smooth, from take-off all the way up to redline. The bike has more bottom-end power and runs smoother.
I'm with you there Shawn, I started with 12 turns & am now slowly turn by turn reducing the input, to see at what point the performance drops off
