When will the newer XF2 be available? I went to the ZipTy website and it said the XF+ coolant was unavailable.
I have been running Zip Ty XF coolant. I have about 2500 miles on the coolant. So far it has been great. It seems to cool my bike better then the stock coolant. I am basing this statement on the fan does not run as much as before the ZF was installed.
Thanks, I must have had a bubble stuck. Final answer, had to be a bubble stuck. I have to admit, it is totally strange opening a radiator with the engine hot, and no pressure. I may still try this stuff later on down the road, I need to process this whole ordeal. Thanks all for the support and ideas.
I am also running the Dobeck EJK. I have it adjusted to where it is adding a lot of fuel in the lower rpm's. I am sure it has lowered my engine temps. Our bikes run extremely lean at anything except full throttle and high rpm's. I noticed anything above 7000 is rich which is good.
I didn't have time to read the full article, can you remove it permanently? Edit: It does look removable and that's what I would recommend. We remove them from all of our motorcycles, including our larger displacement KTM adventure bikes.
Basically the original poster did a fulllllll drain, likely there was an air pocket at either the thermostat causing it not to open (needs hot fluid to open it) or an air pocket causing a lack of coolant flow. What say ye experts?
It is on the right side of the radiator. It is the round insert on the bottom of the tank. It would be great if we could remove the thermostat.
Are you removing the Thermostats because you are running the ZipTy waterless coolant ? What are the advantages/disadvantages running without a t-stat ?
I'm going to get a bunch of photos here directly to post for discussion. The more I look at this crazy setup, the more I don't like it, yet can appreciate what they were trying to accomplish. My guess is that the engineers wished to create a constant flow of coolant through the engine. The thermostat appears to allow the crossflow of the radiator. When the bike is cold, it diverts the flow right back into the hose. When warm/hot diverts the coolant accross the bottom half then back across the top half to the inlet hose to the pump. The bulk head seems to have a partition to separate the top and bottom halves, but does not. I will have to show you pictures to explain this better. I think I have found the culprit, but not sure. A little rubber piece that may have a function in isolating the path across the radiator.
This first picture is to show that both inlet at outlet dump into same chamber. This next one shows how the thermostat assembly lines up The next photo is the parts separated. The brass operates the thermostat. I put it in a pan of water and boiled it to see it in action. The pin pushes in and out. This is the sealing seat of the thermostat to the upper radiator bulk head. The brass piece is in the seating plastic. That piece has a stout spring, hope it is temp sensitive, but did not check. Now go back to picture one and see how it all aligns with the radiator tank.
There are tradeoffs. Waterless coolants do have a higher viscosity than pure water and are more difficult to flow. Thermal flow characteristics are a mathematical calculation no mater what your coolant type, therefore higher flow rates of any coolant will increase heat transfer from your engine to your heat exchanger. Flow rates from a motorcycle water pump are not the highest either, especially when sitting at low rpm/idle at a stop light. You can sit longer at the stop light with a waterless coolant than with pure water which tends to form a hotspot bubble, but the waterless coolant is tougher to flow. For example, at 50°F the viscosity of pure water is 1.3cP versus 2.0cP of Ethylene Glycol. This viscosity decreases at higher temperatures. Depending on your climate, it may take a few more minutes to bring your Terra up to operating temperature without the thermostat. From what I have seen across the threads though is that these 650s generally run pretty hot, so I don't believe there would ever be an issue of running them at less than ideal temperatures.
Not likely without a plug of some sort. More pics coming, just trying to get some sort of accurate narrative.
