Head gasket unavailable at the dealer? That's weird! I'm pretty sure it is on stock at the KTM plant or even in our shop. If you still need one, you can always send me a PM. I can see into the KTM stock with my magic glass ball.
So your device removes the thermostat and replaces it with an aluminum "block" that serves to keep the water flow directions correct? Have you had any thoughts about making an aluminum replacement for the plastic housing that would still hold the stock thermostat? Or would the plan to be use your internal "dummy" block and an external thermostat housing (ThermoBob or similar) if you want to retain a thermostat? I'm kinda interested in an aluminum replacement for the plastic cage that holds the stock thermostat. My only concern with the stock setup is the fragile looking plastic cage holding the thermostat.
The oem thermostat prevents flow. You can run an external thermostat if you live in a colder climate or if you feel that you need to. I seriously doubt this is needed and I am sure there will be many who will test this theory soon enough.
After examining the thermostat housing again, I can see there is a real issue with flow, even when the thermostat is fully open and working properly. There just isn't enough room for the coolant to get by, not even a partial bypass. Will post images of block off when I get them back.
I can really use this fix. It doesn't take much slow speed work for the fan to come on and the temp. to get high, even in the high country.
The thermostat allows cold coolant to bye-pass the radiator, the unit is designed to allow maximum flow of coolant thru' the motor
This is exactly what l'm maching, only a few minutes on the lathe & $5 worth of marine grade aluminium, l have the dimensions for others if you have a local machine shop close by
The thermostat does not, the support frame does. That is why there is no o-ring at the top of the support frame.
I see what the discrepancy is now. There is supposed to be a large opening in the bottom of the thermostat like these on the 1200 models. But my thermostats are blocked off by molding not allowing water to travel past the spring. I wonder if this is why some bikes are having more issues than others. They are supposed to look like this on the bottom:
Ok my thermostat fitting is exactly as the picture of the pair above - ie the coolant can freely flow in through the spring housing and straight back out of the return when the thermostat is in the cold position - there is no way it can 'shut off' the coolant flow in any position. Have you got pictures of the 'blocked off' units that misled you into thinking the thermostat is designed to work in some other way, so as to show others here that may or may not have the same issues?
Yes, I tried posting it, but kept coming up as a blank square. I will repost when I get home from holiday.
I have successfully made my own Thermostat Fix..... http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/thermostat-delete.79712/page-5#post-560427 Happy camper again !!
I'll resurrect this for you Mark. The out and about topic has officially been hijacked by you after I commented on my ride. My comment about needing an extra fan did not require discussion, it was only an observation, like the sun is shining, we don't need to discuss the earth orbit and such. In your picture you have alot of grunge. Where is that coming from? If it is on the plastic in the radiator, it must be on the inside of your engine too. I see why you may be having thermostat issues in this photo. You still need the thermostat to keep your engine as healthy as possible. And yes, over cooling is less damaging than over heating. Shouldn't have to say it. Same as I shouldn't have to talk about pressure and the effect of containing the steam. WATER BOILS AT 100º C (212º F). Adding glycol or any other solution to water does not change the boiling point, ever hear of distillation? Yes, that is how we extract water out of a solution of water and something else. Pressure will contain the steam and/or vapor from expanding out into the atmosphere. But make no mistake, it is still at boiling temperature,which is a bit warm for the engine. The fan needs to come on BEFORE boiling temperature (100º C) so when the t-stat is open, it is taking cooler liquid into the engine. If the coolant flows too fast through the material being cooled, there may not be an efficient transfer of heat, depending on the coefficient of the coolant. Water is just about the best, but water does not have any anti corrosive or anti freezing properties. Yes, water freezes at 0º C (32º F) Now I surely did not think I had to explain this to the guys here, I figured you were smart enough to know that creating a closed system and pressurizing it will allow you to take water past boiling temperature and not loose it (water) to atmosphere. Do you really think anybody here is that un educated about engines and cooling? Maybe so, because you don't seem to think a thermostat is needed in a liquid cooled motor. Just depends on how nice you want to treat you motor. Let the grunge and sludge build up within all you want. Run it at any temperature you want, it's your bike. For others who wish to take care of their bikes in a professional manner, use a good coolant, use a thermostat, and add the auxiliary fan for slow technical driving in hot conditions. The stock system works if you keep it clean. The design is fine, it is the implementation of some of the parts that lack durability, and the setting the fan is supposed to come on at is too high.
It's a relief to know that there's a professor around to teach the life's basics to all us dumb morons out there. We thank you, father!
