Another WRX saved from the scrap heap!

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Va1ZUZF6jk

Chris, Thanks for finding the video! Not quite how I did it, but similar result.

Question 1:
Anyone know if a speedometer cable from a Harley Dyna Softail works on a WR/WRX (with Nippon Denso speedometer and Veglia drive unit)? Someone quoted me $100 for a "Husky" cable, but it looks like the ones for the Harley are the same thing (and available as recent manufacture, and probably off the shelf in town).
Example: http://amzn.com/B0031BKB22

Question 2:
Reed cages - Anything special people use for cleaning them? The one on the left has some dark gritty build-up, how hard can I go after it, or do I need to worry about marring my sealing surface? The one on the right has light color gritty buildup, that looks pretty much like corrosion of the unit itself, so I'm wondering if that one is toast. Do folks block sand them with high grit sand paper or emery paper to square up the surface, or is that a bad idea?

the reed blocks are magnesium..so they corroded up easy if the bike was neglected. be careful..

Well, the one on the left is from my '86 CR 250 "Parts Bike" my dad came across it as a pile in someone's front yard with a for sale sign posted in the middle of the pile. The one on the right came with the WRX. I've mentioned the lack of care in this thread, so I guess neglect is assured on both parts.

I agree that they both have that magnesium alloy feel to them (lighter than steel and different luster than aluminium). I'll spray them down for the next week with various solvents then start hitting them with a rag and brass bristle brush. The block sanding option will basically be my last ditch effort. At least I've got two chances to get it right. I think the one on the left will clean up fine, the one on the right is less likely. I'm still waiting on my clutch cover and a parts order right now anyway.

Looks good! i've always wanted to ride an older MX bike (pre 1986) just to see what the over all power range and how hard the powerband hits compared to say KTM 150sx or CR125.

Regarding the speedometer cable see if you can return it or it may be cheap enough to absorb the cost. Sometimes that is the only way to cross reference not having specs available. I will check mine and let you know.

Specs from ad :

• 39 inches long with 12 mm I.D. x 1.0 top nut and 1/4 O.D. x 20 tpi lower fitting.

I checked out my cable the other day. I was able to confirm 12mm x 1.00 male thread on the speedometer but did not separate the cable from the drive unit so I can not speculate on that interface

It's been a while since I've posted in this thread. I seem to be on hold over parts right now. I sent my exhaust and clutch cover to Rick from Husqvarna Outlet back in January to be restored/upgraded (fix some JB Weld repairs to the clutch cover, and some prior poor repairs and a hole in the pipe), and though he tells me they are done (since April now), he hasn't gotten them back to me. Just like most of the vintage sources out there, it's not his main gig, and he has stuff going on in his life, and I get that, but he's been sitting on my parts for 3 months now...

Anyway, my 86 is back together (finally just put the pipe I'd picked up for the '85 on it), and Im just waiting on the parts I sent out in January to get the '85 going. It's starting to look like the parts Rick has are a lost cause. I can snag the clutch cover off of my parts/future project bike (1986 CR 250). If I ever get my original cover back, I can swap it back for the price of a gasket at my next oil change. I've got the HP pipe that came on the bike, but it is beyond rough. I've come across a couple of sites that claim to do expansion chamber repair (Pacific crest in Oregon and Fusion One on the East Coast). Has anyone used either of these before?

i used pacific crest about 18 years ago..did an ok job on a pretty badly cracked pipe.
sorry to hear about your experience with husqvarna outlet..no excuse for no communication!

It happens, it's a bit disappointing. I did hear back from Rick and he told me part of my order is coming my way, though I haven't been given a tracking number yet... He also has told me a little about what's going on. Nothing I'd wish on anyone, but at the same time, they haven't exactly put up a message on their website saying they aren't taking more orders or that orders may be delayed, etc. When I've used them in the past they have been VERY responsive and reasonable, so maybe they'll get back to that, they're definitely not there right now though.

Thanks for the note on Pacific Crest. Based on the package reportedly headed my way, maybe I give it a little more time before I go off and spend $$ to fix another pipe.

Allright, I'm back in business (mostly). Rick from HusqvarnaOutlet sent me my clutch cover. As we'd agreed when I sent it, it's definitely serviceable, though not anything you'll see in a museum. Steel inserts for the kicker and shifter shafts, reconstructed the missing bits of the water pump base so it'll seal (also replaced bearing, seal and o-ring), and fixed the hole in the middle with actual weld instead of the PO's JB Weld job.

I wasn't having much luck finding a WR left side panel without picking one up from HVA factory, suffering the exchange rate and paying trans-Atlantic shipping, so I finally broke down and contacted DC plastics .They've got my '86 left side panel now and are working on duplicating it (they said 4 month turn-around time, I guess I should have thought of them sooner). I did decide to go ahead and order the remainder of a full plastic kit from them, which I'm sure some folks have an opinion about. The fenders radiator shrouds and headlight/number plate look good (haven't really checked fit though). The right side panels will take some tinkering to be functional. I'm hopeful that the left side panel comes out looking a little better than those right side panels when they're done duplicating.Still cost less than buying the single left side panel from HVA Factory and getting it shipped (though the NOS panel that HVA factory sells is undoubtedly a better item).

Now if I can just get a break from the 'two jobs one employer' that I've had going on the last 2 months, maybe I can have this thing flinging mud in time for election season!

Luckily that cover is aluminum so it can be welded by most anyone. Try finding someone who know the right grade of mag rod to weld a cover from 1985. That is why I am sealing the JB Weld repair inside and out with epoxy.

I took the '86 to the end of the alley and back today (I'd been using the chainsaw in the flower beds already, and another neighbor has a buzz saw going, I figured why not add to the noise a little). The bike started first kick in tennis shoes using the stuff mentioned in the 'starting big bores' thread (not unheard-of for me when I was riding the bike more regularly, but it hasn't run in a while so...)! While Idling I noticed I've got the incorrect size o-ring in the front of my silencer (exhaust coming out both ends of the silencer). Anyone know what size o-ring that's supposed to be? There is an industrial supply place near my house that has a huge selection, and likely has what I need for pick up on my next day off, I just need to know the size. I know the various husky parts sites have them, but I'm cheap I'd rather pay $0.30 OTD in a day or two then $7 plus shipping and wait a week.

I don't remember the size but I'm with you. "O" rings are cheep & you can have spares on the cheep.

Worst part is I tossed the originals.

The '85 is starting to come together. I put oil in it. It leaks a little. Not enough to stop me from getting it out and riding a couple of times this season (while keeping an eye on it), Enough that I might try splitting the cases this winter though (I was hoping the work on the clutch cover and new gasket would help the leaking oil, didn't want to have to split cases).

Does anyone have a favorite thread repair product (speaking of reasons that splitting cases is likely necessary)? One of the sockets for the clutch cover will need to be redone (threads, but doesn't hold very tight, luckily above the oil line, so I loctited it for now), and both sets of threads for the sub frame are gone. I've been tempted to go for a time sert kit, but as long as I'm acknowledging being cheap, well, coil kits are appealing too.

Found radiator guards on ebay. Should be here in another couple days. I've got a short list of hardware store items, and then I'll be down to plastic/decal/assembly work, and of course fixing whatever comes up once I've had an opportunity or two to take it to the end of the alley, and then sequentially longer rides.

Has anyone tried these?
I've got two pipes and one tank in need of new rubber, that's 8 grommets, less than half the price of available black rubber to have silicone seems like a worthwhile substitution. Just curious if anyone's used those or similar.

for the muffler, just pull it off, clean up the goo and then silicon the join, reassemble and leave for 24hrs.

haha, of course I'd 'like' this solution...O-ring in a tube.

Given the relative inexpense of an O-ring, I will be making a stop at an industrial supply place before I resort to this. Not saying it won't happen, but right now my pipes don't have "goo" to clean up (granted husqvarnaoutlet STILL has one of my pipes...), why start gooing them up now?

having a 2cm long o ring is better than a 2mm one