Hello everyone, I have the workshop manual but for some reason it is still not apparent to me how to do a valve adjustment on 2011 sms 630. I am mechanically inclined, already have the valve cover off, just looking for some possible insight. Any help and advice is appreciated. Thanks!
Use feeler gauges for go/no-go under the follower to check lash/clearance between the rocker and the top of the valve. If they are within spec you're good to go. If they are not then you remove the shim on the top of the valve - pull the black clip off the rocker shaft and the rockers will move out of the way to gain access to the shim on top of the valve. Shims are marked with their thickness and come in .05mm size increments. Sometimes you can mix and match what you need with what you have. In any case, your local bike shop will have a shim assortment and you can buy the next size up or down to set your clearance to spec. My indy will exchange them, most shops just sell you what you need for a few bucks each. They are standard size, all the jap bikes fit, I would have to dig for the actual spec and what all brands are compatible. Let us know if there are specific issues with the process we can help with. I thought there was a comprehensive 'how-to' with pictures and all, but would have to browse up-thread.
husqvarnaoutlet.com has the repair manual you can download, it contains detailed instructions on how to check and adjust your valves. As for your noise. Is it apparent under part throttle low load/rpm, and sort of disappear under heavy throttle or at idle?
Look at Page 1 of this thread, Post #5. Those pics pretty well capture it (and the #3 in the second pic denotes the spring clip which has to be removed to slide the rocker aside.) As mentioned throughout the thread you want to be very careful when removing/swapping shims. Stuff rags into the head cavities and the timing chain tunnel (in case you drop one) and lift them out of their seat on top of the valve using a magnet or a tiny screwdriver with a good dab of grease on the tip.
Hi everyone thanks for the input. I have located the black clip between the rocker arms that has a small hole in it. How do I remove this!? I notice it is holding the rocker arms in place on both sides. The only valve that exceeds maximum recommendation of .20mm is the right exhaust valve. The .20 feeler slides right through but .23mm does not. Either way, it is still out of spec. All other valves do not exceed their maximum limits. Also, I just checked the timing chain and it does have some play in it but very small. Is the chain supposed to be rock solid tight or is it intended to have 1mm of play?
Coffee showed us how to adjust the valves on the 2004-2011 dohc big bores back in 2008. Yes it's the same on the '11 630's. Its been here on CH all along: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/how-to-check-valves-on-a-2006-4stroke-video.1159/
So I took out all the valve shims to check their condition. They are all in good shape (no mushrooming) but it is weird that 3 of the shims are all the same 2,20 thickness and one is 2.15 thickness. Is this normal as it was installed from the factory?
1. There is no wear on shims. Hence some sources will swap them for you. Usually they want to make some money on you so will only sell them. They are a $2 shim but most will charge five or six bucks for them. Or you can get an assortment/kit, but personally I think they're a waste of $$ unless you have a LOT of bikes. 2. It is common for the exhaust side to get loose, the intake to get tight - it's the way things tend to wear over time. That said, normally there is no movement for many thousands of miles - likely half the life the motor. It has been said that once shim-bucket valve train starts needing adjustment it's likely it needs a complete rebuild. Have not seen this so much on the husky with SS valves, but for sure on Ti type valve trains like KTM and some of the racing big-4 brands. 3. To remove the clip just hook it with a piece of stiff wire or a tool with a hook and pull it up - it's a spring clip. 4. It is likely all the shims are the same - whatever it needed is how it was setup when built. Also likely they've only been checked once. 5. The one loose valve will have been the one you hear ticking when hot - likely that will go away. 6. The whole valve train loosens up some when hot - just the way it was designed. Generally you'll get some ticking from everything when hot. It's music to the ears. 7. check that airbox for secure breather tube - if you start getting fine dirt through there you'll toast the motor. 8 8. The oem timing chain tensioner pumps up on oil pressure so it will tighten up when running. There is a detent or spring so it cannot slack off too much when shut down. That's the play you're seeing. I believe there is a manual adjuster available but have not heard of cam chain tensioner problems with this motor. The early RCF KTM motors were notorious for crappy tensioner and plenty of aftermarket ones that worked better including a manual option. 9. Get a pickup magnet tool to remove the shims - super easy to pop them out with said tool. 10. IIRC bent feelers work better for maneuvering in there. And yes, use go/no-go to judge clearance.Better loose than tight. Loose is just noisy - tight will burn seats, valves and can be hard starting or it won't start at all.
Very informative post CJ thanks for the info! I up sized the loose valve to a 2.20 shim just like the others. Clearance is now right on. Going to reassemble bike and see how she runs.
Sure, no problem. It can be confusing 'till you've done one. Then you slap your forehead and go, "Well that was easy!" My next bike was the Tiger XC. Wow, getting at the valves on that one with the triple and 12 valves stuffed up next to the frame was a real trick!
