For me, it would have to be down to a balance between what worked out most cost effective and what had the better chance of success. If the cost of another cylinder head wasnt too much more than a new valve and getting a replacement guide fitted. Also aslong as the valve seat could be lapped back in without losing too much clearance adjustment. Id stick some duct tape over the gasket surface and set about that head with a die grinder. I would get a replacement rocker case because welded cast alu has a horrible tendency to be porous.
If its still available at the end of the week, may just jump on it. Looks like the parts/machine work will be close to $500.
I probably exaggerated on the damage, but the guy doing the welding is a guru in the truest sense. Here's some pics of a GS paralever he repaired after the driveshaft failed, then proceeded to punch a hole in the side of it. If I can find a spare though, then I will proably jump on it.
So here are some more pics. Jug came off no problem. Used a magnet & heavy duty shop vac to remove all the slag before taking it off so nothing gets into the bottom end. Piston looks a little chewed up so I'll probably go for a Wossner while I'm in there. Rear timing chain guide rail was also broken off from the bolt that holds it in place. The timing chain was also very loose when removing and it has an APE manual timing chain tensioner on it as well. Thinking the chain streched too much, tensioner not adjusted properly, and when run the chain slapped against rail causing it to break. Just a possible scenario. 1 bent intake valve, although I think the other one is trashed too. Seat look pretty trashed as well. Local machine shop said it could be fixed, but might not be cost prohibitive compared to a good used head. The crack on the valve cover in question. Spans from the valve adjustment port to the cylinder head mating surface. I have some ideas re-facing it once it gets welded. Workshop is a bit messy, but she's in good company.
That looks as if some rough so and so levered between the machined surfaces to remove the rocker cover and broke it.
Yup, yup. Screwdriver between the mating surfaces is my best guess as well. Also just got the title in the mail from the PO, so now I can start throwing money at it haha. Don't feel too bad since I paid $600 for it.
Well I just splurged on a head/valve cover on that auction site. Figured I can fix the damaged ones and keep as spares if need be. Started putting the plastics,subframe, dirtbagz rack and other items back on. Actually looks like a real bike now. Not too bad for 4510 miles.
Made a little progress yesterday. Replacement wossner piston came in, along with Cam chain, exhaust side cam chain rail, o-ring set and gasket set. Unfortunately, the 2006 TE610 parts fiche is reversed for the cam chain rails, since I actually needed intake side cam chain rail. Got the flywheel off with the motion pro YFM M35x1.5 puller and took a look inside. Quite a bit of garbage/metal shavings/debris. I'll be pulling the stator from the cover and cleaning all the metal shavings off as well. Well that's a pretty good indicator that the cam chain is worn. And that the reed valve, screws & backing plate need replacement. Perfect time to order them along with the intake side rail.
Only 4500 miles and that worn? The 610 has a cam chain stretch issue but nothing like that! My 610 had 5k miles on it and the cam chain was just barely touching the reed valve when I changed it. The old bikes did not have a reed valve there so the chain could stretch a bit before that happened. The new bikes have very little room for stretch. Maybe some bikes had bad chains. The replacement chains seem to last much longer.
You're right, its pretty crazy for it to be worn @ 4500. Technically the bike is TMU since when I got the gauge working it had reset itself to 00002, but it was not ridden much, if at all since then. I did notice some sharpie/permanent markings inside the head & valve cover that are obviously not stock, so I'm pretty sure someone was in the motor at some point as well. Going to compare the new (used) cylinder head and one from the bike to see if someone took too much material off. I have yet to check the current APE manual timing chain tensioner, but another possibility is that someone tensioned it a bit too much.I compared chains (albeit briefly) and they looked very similar, with the old one maybe "slightly" longer.
This is my CCT @ 11000 miles, still on the original timing chain. I wonder how further out it can go before it starts wearing the reed valve.
Yours looks pretty good. I think 10 or 11 clicks out is the max before it starts to wear the reed valve. From reading another post when searching, with the ACCT out @ 10 clicks, the tip of the adjuster to the inside of the flange (w/ no gasket) distance is 28mm.
if it helps, when I changed my camchain it was NOTICEABLY shorter than stock. Maybe that head was decked too much!?
Thought that too, but just checked the old vs new head and they measure within .1mm of each other. Also strange that the old cam chain did not seem that worn. And the manual TCT measured 22mm from the tip to the face, so that part seems good too. Kinda stumped on what the problem actually is.
Well I guess when you put it back together, you will see how far the chain is from the reed valve and how many clicks the tensioner is. I think mine was 4-5 clocks with a new chain. If you put it together and there are 9 clicks you will know there is a problem.
