I started putting it back together last night, but had to run up to my buddys place to help him pull the cylinder head on his race car. Side note, turns out what we thought was just a bent valve turned out to be a snapped rod @ Cylinder #3. We suspect oil starvation issues for 10yrs of drivers schools and 9hrs of endurance racing put it out of its misery 2 weekends ago. Since I'm running an APE manual timing chain tensioner, I don't have the clicks to go by. Since someone else mentioned the ACT @ 10 clicks out measured 28mm, I'm thinking every click is worth approx. 3mm.
So a few updates, some good, some bad. Still waiting on the Lectron which should be here Thursday or Friday. Stupidly cracked the cam gear trying to fit the wrong way. Guess that happens when you try and work on 5 things at once. Good news was Bill's MC had 2 used ones in stock which came in on Saturday, so I was able to mostly finish up the top end install. Set the manual tensioner @ around 18mm (might be too tight) and get everything timed properly. Fitted the starter, stator cover, and gears, then tried to turn it over. Wouldn't turn clockwise, only in reverse. Pulled the stator cover off and was able to turn by hand. Turns out the starter drive gear that rides on 2 steel bushings in each case, was missing one. So effectively, the gear was moving in the bore and binding up the gearing. Made a brass one that measures 10mm ID, 12mm OD & 10mm Long. Should do the trick for now and I can make a steel one to replace this if it wears. 2006 TE610 by Benjamin M, on Flickr Next piece I started making is for the coolant temp sensor. Since I am using an '08 TE610 cylinder head, I have the threaded coolant port in the head for the FI connector. Not going to be using it for FI, but I am planning on swapping the dash for a Trailtech Vapor unit. Unfortunately, Trailtech doesn't make a probe the correct size for this port (M10x1.25), but they do make a M6x1 threaded temp sensor probe. Took some brass stock and turned the outside down before threading M10x1.25 Male threads. Then put it on the bridgeport with rotary table, and cut it to fit a 14mm wrench. Works perfectly. I'll be drilling and then tapping to M6x1 tomorrow or the next day. 2006 TE610 by Benjamin M, on Flickr
Ok, ok. Fixed my water logged WR177 this weekend and also spent some time on 610. Everything is back together, lectron carb is fitted, and I still can't get the damn thing to start. I did accidentally bolt the timing chain sprocket on backwards a month ago & put a small crack in it. Picked one up on fleabay for cheap and it went in no problem. Was just test fitting everything so there was no valve/piston collision and the cam isn't bent/cracked, but for some reason I can only get 90psi when I compression test it. This is with 2 different gauges and a brand new piston, and the manual specs it @ 113psi. Possibly the "spring" for the auto decompression portion got messed up when I screwed up the timing chain sprocket, & possibly the auto decompression unit itself. I am going to pull the valve cover & recheck everything, including timing this week or next. Also, after chasing my tail on a "no spark" issue, I ran the ground wire from the ignition coil to the starter motor and that seemed to help. Stator tested fine on the exciter coil & pulser coil. Ended up buying a new igntion coil & wire, but I suspect my old ones were fine. I have a used CDI on order as well. Also, when I go to crank it, it just cranks and cranks, sometimes it pops if I hold the throttle open. One weird thing though, is the exhaust seems to "suck" and not blow. I am thinking it may be mistimed 180degrees out. Just need to find the time to work on the damn thing!
Mmh. Seems strange that a brand new piston is giving low pressure. About the timing, unless you assembled the camshaft with the piston on the lowest end, you should be alright...
Ok, so after a long hiatus I finally tore back into it last night. Took my 950 ADV out on some rough trails, single track and sand, and that bike is in serious need of a fork rebuild/revalve, carb re-jet, clean and TPS adjustment. So time to try and get the 610 running. Pulled the cam off and then pressed off the bearing this morning. Looks like the spring for the Auto Decomp valve is not doing its job (partially broken) which may be the cause for my low compression. What I think is happening is the spring is not putting enough tension on the decomp valve which holding it open too long, hence why it won't build enough compression. Any thoughts on this? I ordered a spring and some other misc. parts from hall's, should be here Monday. Also, anyone know if there should be oil flow to the head when you just crank the motor or does it need to be running? Mine doesn't appear to have oil flow when cranking, may need to check the bag filter and oil pump timing/shaft... 06 TE610 Auto Decomp Spring by Benjamin M, on Flickr 06 TE610 Auto Decomp Spring by Benjamin M, on Flickr
