I have the ND iridium Ducati plugs for the Terra 650s in stock now. They are about 9 dollars after your discount. fyi http://www.ziptyracing.com/nippo-denso-iu27-iridium-spark-plug/
Surprising is more like it. But no, I changed to a 15 tooth sprocket at the same time. I don't see how dropping the gear ratio would make much difference really, but I went from average 60 mpg with the 16t and stock plugs, to probably a one time high of 69.1 mpg. That's 9 mpg. The 14t gave me 55 mpg, so how could the 15 tooth give a 14mpg increase? Dropping from 16t to the 14t went from 60 mpg to 55 mpg. Maybe the 15 t in conjunction with the Brisk and my riding style keeps the bike in perfect sync??? But isn't that what we are all after? The guys hard on the throttle looking to keep their lips and eyeballs peeled back won't like my setup. Although it is not too bad, and worlds better than stock. I also only weigh 140 lbs But following the adv fueling thread enlightens as to how the Brisk plug could pull it off. Everybody is chasing more fuel to get the bike running well at the expense of economy and efficiency. This seems to be the only topic to address other components of the combustion cycle. And it started with a simple thing like indexing a plug for more ponies, an old school racing trick. I do have the pod mod and a single can upgrades. And the fan did not kick on yesterday. The engine temp was right at half. Gotta love technology when it works right.
Mag00 I am curious about the brisk plugs but to change them at short intervals is counter productive for me. The concept makes since though. Interesting what other find out. Tinken- The plugs you have in stock you said NG Iridium. Are these denso spark plugs? EDit: Looked at website they are denso. Do you know what the factory gap is on this plug? Went on Denso website only list IU-24 plugs for multistrada and they are .024 gap. They do not have a search on their website to put in the different model number. Looked on amazon and they say .034 gap.
They are Nippon Denso, we are actually discontinuing the NGK iridium plugs we used to carry because the ND plugs are higher quality at the same price point. I will check the factory gap, but personally I would not change it. These fire so much more efficiently that gap is not critical and you pose to damage the electrode before making any subtle change in performance.
I did the follow the video from that one and ran across Pulstar by Enerpulse. I think these are capacitive plugs, anybody use them? They are closed for the day, so I could not call and see if they made the capacitive in the 10mm thread. The capacitive is what I was really hunting for. I heard that works about the best. One of the few technological leaps in spark plug technology.
https://www.pulstar.com/buy-now/product/JE2RT8 Mathew is going to add some details, they are working on the site. The issue with this plug is that it is 1/2 inch longer than the stock ones. Our coils will not seat properly with this plug. You would have to modify the coil or shorten the coil boot somehow, and the claim is 3-5% better economy. they are 17.50 each sold in two packs. 2 year warranty on powersports plugs. Lifetime on automotive plugs. The only place you can buy them currently is from them directly, they do not let the distributers sell these because the plug is longer and they want the customer informed. This is the only 10mm capacitive plug made. Pulstar has the patents, and only makes one config of the 10mm. I'm not going to buy them as I am tickled with the performance of the Brisk. Personally I like the concept of the capacitive plug. I am having a hard time with their promo material and the mis use of the electrical ratings. 5 million watt, LOL, I have no idea where they come up with such malarchy. You would need a much bigger alternator to run this LOL. They may mean well, but to a tech guy it is laughable. They must have some special way to measure that is not industry standard, Amps times volts equals watts. https://www.pulstar.com/technology/the-pulse/3169-The-Pulstar-Pulse.html There is an adv topic where they did similar, rating power as watts. Just wrong. Totally different formula to calculate. Regardless, I would try them if they fit and was not happy with the Brisk.
FYI, this place sells the brisk plugs for cheaper. But, only when in stock, http://www.arsenalracing.com/product-p/ar10zs.htm
Actually ( and this is going back a REALLY long way) an amp is the measure of the number electrons ( yes I know we know now that electrons don't actually flow as such, but bear with me) that flow in a second. Ergo if you reduce the time with the same number of electrons, the WATTS will be higher for the transfer of electrons for that duration. eg 20000v 1amp for one second is 20000watts, but a spark for 1000th of a second would produce effectively 20000 x 1000 watts or calculated 20000KW if continued for 1 second. Really a calculation anomoly and misleading to some extent, but not actually incorrect. A figure that gives the total power for the actual spark would be more use. Even then if the spark is too short for the same amount of energy it could be too short to hit enough fuel molecules in the path... Really to be useful you would need an index for the spark power relative to the optimal duration for optimal amount of fuel molecule activation. On that note, these semi-surface discharge may increase the duration of the spark, but seem to reduce the plasma volume so would seem to intersect less fuel molecules. This is the same problem that multi electrode plugs can suffer from. A dual electrode plug will have more plasma volume but half the power between each electrode ( you can't get extra power from nowhere). I could be wrong cause it has been a long time since I did my basic physics.
"Electricity is measured in terms of amperage, voltage, and wattage. Amperage (amps for short) is a measure of the AMOUNT of electricity used.Voltage (volts) measures the pressure, or FORCE, of electricity. The amps multiplied by the volts gives you the wattage (watts), a measure of the WORK that electricity does per second." A politician will spin this, us regular folks understand this. This is where I take umbrage with the "fuzzy math". This is the standard unit of measure, if someone needs to take it out of proper use, they need to clarify. We call it spin, there is some truth and the misconception relies on the premise you believe the spin. Don't sell me the spaces please, I'm buying the watts or kilawatts thank you very much.
I would love to see the alternator on your motorcycle firing off 10 million watts of electricity. (2 plugs) It's not correct, and it is irresponsible to tout it as such. It is a sales dupe. Omission of the pertinent facts to make a reasonable calculation. The spark could be measured in Joules. 10 million watts would fry you the first pop. It would be a big explosion. 10 million volts could be alot or nothing. And that is why I bring it up in the first place. It is not responsible or accurate promotion of the product. I still think that the capacitive idea is a great idea, wish I could put it to the test. My arse will be no where near 10 million watts. Thank goodness our bikes can't produce that kind of power.
This was the part of Greg's post that caught my eye. Gap, indexing and flame propagation are very important factors during ignition which are limited on surface discharge type plugs.
Good work on finding an alternative spark plug. I have been in touch with the Australian distributor and he agrees that the AR10ZS are an excellent plug. He did also suggest the Brisk Premium LGS plug, part number AOR10LGS as an alternative, this plug will work over a wide spectrum of fuel qualities, good for me as fuel quality can vary a fair bit around here. In Australia the AOR10LGS work out around $24 a plug, hope to pick some up this weekend.
Geeza that's about the same price as I have seen the MAR's. I am currently trying CR9EIX's and they don't have projected centres so may not run quite as well as the MAR's. Let us know how the Brisk plugs go and where you go them from. When I came back from the Phillip Island trip the bike had become almost impossible to start. The change of plags seems to have almost completely fixed it ( still a little hesitancy starting) . I am a bit worried at their reliability as I have had quite a few snap the centre insulators in the motor in my racing bikes. I have just installed a Power Commander5 and will take it to get dynoed this week. The Australia dynajet distributor won't sell direct to retail customers ( Serco) any more despite the fact I have bought 4 units off them previously so next bike I will get something other than a power commander. Hopefully this will cure my starting problems though I fear a reduction in fuelk economy.
Fitted the Brisk premium LGS plugs to the bike today. Money very well spent. The engine idle has improved and it pulls stronger and smoother through the whole rev range. This bike still needs the fuel map sorting but the Brisk spark plugs make a difference and more rider friendly. As posted earlier the Brisk part number I used is: AOR10LGS the AR10ZS will also fit (thanks mag00)
I ordered the AR10zs plugs and noticed they are a hotter plug. For me they caused spark knock in the bottom end under 3k rpm. I do not have a fuel controller either. So if you do you should be fine. If it is stock then I would not use these plugs.
Very interesting indeed. When I called and spoke with them, I asked about the heat range. He said that NGK get hotter the smaller the number and their (brisk) designation get colder, or vs versa. But, the end discussion is that they were the same heat range, and they had one more range available. But, the pinging is not good. I have pod mod and single exhaust, no wuka or other spoof. I'm bone stock except for breathing. Did it ping on initial start or after warmed up? Always or under load? What octane and brand of fuel? Did you do the idle till warm recalibration? Are you calling them up and sending them back? Do you have video? Sorry about all the questions. I don't doubt you are experiencing some issues, and this further demonstrates the finnickyness of these bikes. I just wonder what the difference is. Is it altitude? Fuel? or just how the bike was set up from the factory. I bought mine in Cali, and transplanted it to AZ. If the bike was and is set up to CALI emission standards for delivery to Cali. Based on geographical and topographical info, did they create different tuning for different bikes? I know some say that the new moss update is the same for all bikes. But is it the same, and varies in accordance with delivery destination as well? Euro bikes are different from ours. From what I'm learning the moss will not even work without being live to husky. Meaning the tuning software may reside on their end, and the moss is merely a terminal to access it. And all the purchase info is in their Mothership.
First I did reset the ecu as been described in this forum. I noticed the slight pinging at start up through 3k rpm. After that not so much. I am trying to chase out a heavy vibration that is plaguing my bike still. It started around 7k miles and when I changed the spark plugs reset the ecu went away for 2k miles and has come back with no way of getting it out again. I took it to the KTM dealer in Jacksonville and they believe the ecu has advanced the timing? So maybe this has some thing to do with the plugs being too hot for me. But the ngk's did not have the problem below 3k miles. I only use 93 octane from shell, bp, hess, or sunaco. There is no elevation here in florida. I just bought new one step colder ngk's to test against the vibrations. Seems like when the other guys here in florida were having the same problem they changed the spark plugs and did reset it worked and stayed working. Mine worked then went back to the problem. You are right these bikes are very finicky to the point that it makes no sense to keep dumping money into it. LOL
First comment. My opinion is Shell gas is the worst gas on the planet. Followed by diamond shamrock. (probably same refinery) Top shelf gas is Chevron. It's pretty much all I run, with a very occasion out of necessity circle k gas. Sometimes I add octane boost. It's almost sounding like your o2 is failing. If you have a way to easily swap it, I would try that. On mine, it will get vibey sometimes when I roll up to highway speed, but it smooths out after 20-30 seconds. I do not know what sensors or parameters would trigger ignition timing settings. Seems like this plug exasperated your troubles. This could be considered a good thing or a bad thing. Bad in that your bike is worse off, good in that it is pointing you into the direction of the trouble to be fixed. Have you done the valve adjust yet? I'd like to say the plug cannot make a difference, but they do. The question is why your bike went the other way. My bike is pretty amazing now. I don't ride hard often, but the other day, leaving the dealer I pegged it in the lot. From a rolling start it just launched. I do not see how a PC5 or any other fueler could make it better, but if it did, yowsa! My mpg's have settled down to around 62-63 now. Weather change may be playing a part.
