Hey Jawjo, not familiar with your parts sourcing out there, but noticed you are in the same town as Hexcode, you been there?
If there is no local distributor then try ebay. With delivery they were still cheaper than the OEM NGKs from my local guys.. WTF
I have the Brisks installed but was never too impressed with performance improvements. I ordered a set of Pulstars. So, a question, is the gap on the Pulstars to set the same as OEM? I am assuming it should be.
Charlie I installed the Pulstars last week after a valve clearance adjustment. WayneC's opinion was that the gap is not that relevant as long as it's not smaller than the factory spec. I also gave the IACV a thorough clean. The stockers measured at around 7-7.5mm. The new Pulstars were set at about 8-8.5mm. We did a decent trip on the weekend which served as a good shake-down after major servicing. I can report that the bike runs amazingly well, better than it was prior to the service (and I had no complaints about it then!). The 4 things I noticed immediately were: 1/ the ease of cold starting - 1 hit on the starter button and it fires right up. 2/ cold running is much better. It still acts like a grumpy cold thumper but not nearly as grumpy. 3/ the thottle response, especially at low revs (2-3k) is amazing now 3/ idle is rock solid at around 1,300-1,500, no hunting I can't say it was the Pulstars but they don't seem to have harmed things. I've got a sneaking suspicion the valve adjustment did the magic. My inlets were tight and exhausts loose, 1 past the range limit. I got them bang on slightly looser than the mid-point. I was considering the injector swap but don't think I'll touch it for a while. It ran noticeably better than the other Terra on the trip but that bike had low k's. My bike just seems to improve with the greater mileage.
There was some reference to modifications required to install the longer Pulstar plugs. Anyone care to describe exactly what must be done?
the rubber boots sit too high when left in the original location. Some people put o-rings on the coils to lock them in place. I just slid the rubber boots down a few mm and put zip-ties on top of them to secure them in place. Works just fine since many km.
I used self-amalgamating tape wrapped around the plug where it fits thru' the head, I understand physical support - I had tried O-rings, but they move
I think I will use Engineers cure. I happen to have some in my tool kit. I should get mine in the post tomorrow.
My pulstars showed up last week. Still have not had a chance to get them on the bike. I plan on pushing the boot off the bottom and using orings(or something to fill the gap) on top of the boot to support the top of the coil while the existing boot will be mated to the head as normal. Ive been seeing two different gap measurements. Can anyone shed some light on the proper gap?
I got lucky rummaging through my rubber bits & pieces & found 2 toilet seat grommets/bushes that just happenned to be the perfect fit! They are slightly wedge-shaped but have the perfect ID to fit over the coil & OD to tightly fit inside the red cam cover well holes. Their depth was also spot on to take up the extra length of the Pulstars. The fit is rock solid and proved itself last weekend on the Bridle Track. Lucky dunny rummaging!
I've now installed the Plustars. I set the gap at .32 and buttoned it up, turned the key and it started instantly. I took it out around our block and holy crap, what a difference. I haven't been on the highway yet but based on 0-45mph it's gonna be good. I have a 200 mile ride planned tomorrow so I will know more then, so far, thumbs up. So, for those of you that wanted to know how to do this. 1. First make sure you have a 5/8" Long socket (thin wall or normal, if normal you will need to grind it thin) 2. You will need to grind the outside diameter to match that of the TR supplied plug socket (easier than it sounds) 3. Remove the upper front right side plastics. 4. Pry the grey (outside right) condenser boot up from the outside plug and fish the condenser and boot up and out of the way 5. Blow the debris from around that plug and use the 5/8" socket to remove it 6. Place a clean, lint free rag into the plug hole to keep further debris out of it 7. Pry the inside (all black) condenser and boot up and clear of the second plug and blow out any debris 8. Test your socket to insure that it will fit within the hole in the head where the plug resides and re-grind if necessary 9 . Remove the plug 10. Gap your new Plustar. I used .32 as my start point and it doesn't require changing 11. Install new spark plug (black condenser and wire) and torque to specifications 12. Re-install the condenser (black condenser and wire) and add your O ring or however you intend to keep the boot tight 13. Install the new (grey condenser and wire ) side spark plug and torque to specifications 14. Re-install the condenser (grey condenser and wire) and add your O ring or however you intend to keep the boot tight. 15. Start, smile, ride, smile more. With the new plug in place I want to place self amalgamating tape here but found mine was hardened. Instead I wire tied until I can get more tape. The slop at the condenser head that everyone has been describing The entire operation took less than an hour but I will have to repeat some steps when I get the self amalgamating tape. ______________________________________________________________________ For the record I now have 29,800 miles on my bike. I am going to post photos of my old OEM plugs for Magoo. I've had these for months and forgot to post them. The debate was whether the LC2 I installed would carbon up the plugs and jug. This is what they looked like with I pulled them at 22,400 miles. I am pretty sure that by now I would have experienced problems with carbon build up from adding fuel but so far, so good. Knock wood. This is the inboard plug And the outboard plug
some pics from when i installed mine. I slid the rubber boots down a few mm and simply put a zip-tie above them to lock the coils in place. Zip-tie probably isn't even required as the boots are still quite tight on the coil. As for the gap: Pulstar recommends the original gap (0.6+-0.1) but i found it to run better with 0.8mm. I am using them since almost 10k km now and no issues. I didn't get much improvement out of them over the fairly new stock plugs but my Terra was running fine before already. I think the improvement many get is because they are new and maybe because they have Iridium tips...
Hmmm, I didn't see that they would slip down like that. I am headed out for a ride and when I get back I will address those boots. Thanks Carsten How does the plug on the coil release?
The connector has a small tab on top. Lift the tab a tiny, tiny bit while pulling the connector out. I use the smallest flat head screwdriver I have to lift the tab. ! Keep track of which wires go to which coil !
