So the last few times I've gone riding the bike would shut off somewhere along the ride, always while riding, never at a stop light, very strange. today it did it again and didn't really want to start back up however it did eventually. Got home parked it, few hours went by and now it won't start at all. I've drained the tank, pulled it to check connections under it and they all look ok. Seemed like there is a lot of oil around the plug, when I pulled it to check it, the plug had oil on the electrode. Is this a very bad sign? I'm not really sure where to go from here, any help is appreciated.
How many miles or kilometres has the engine done and were any of those with low gear oil? If the bike turns over and doesn't fire i suspect piston rings is where the oils coming from, unless an oil breather hose is blocked then could of set oil up through the airbox.
Once someone offered to fill my tank but neglected to mention it was 2-stroke fuel premixed with oil. My plug gummed up and the bike randomly stalled on me. Symptom was a very black plug. I changed the plug and fuel, everthing ok afterwards.
Ok, forgot to mention this is an 09 fuel injected 610. The fuel pump primes when the key is turned on, I haven't fueled it from a can, only gas stations, so it can't be two stroke pre mix. The bike has about 9100 miles on it now, I've owned it for the last 1500 of them. I did an oil change about 1000 miles ago and it seemed like the level was right. I was going to change the oil again this week, but according to the filler glass on the side of the motor it still has the correct level in it. Will the bike run without the temp sensor? Could i unplug it and try to fire it up or does it require the sensor?
I've run premix in lots of 4 strokes, it shouldn't cause a problem. It works fine in 2 strokes, right? Engines need three things to run: fuel, spark, compression. Check that you're getting fuel, check for spark, and measure the compression. Then go from there.
Ok, so I tore through the whole bike, I had spares of many of the electrical parts and tried them all separately to no avail. The fuel pump primes so I believe I have fuel, I don't think I have spark. I took the plug out and tried starting it with the plug in the coil against the motor and got no spark at all. Tried a different coil and a lawn mower spark plug again all just against the motor to see if I got spark and nada. All fuses are intact so what's left? Stator? I have a spare ecu, Cdi, coil and many other pieces from a parts lot I got in eBay, so I can't guarantee they are working. So where do I go from here?
If you're sure that you did the spark test right, next thing I would do is check the coil. Check the primary and secondary resistance, and check the power feed. I don't have the wiring diagram for that bike in front of me, but make sure that there is power from the stator or the reg/rec, check the signal wires for continuity.
Voltage regulator? Probably not from what I read but I would try jumping the battery to see if that might get a start. Even if the battery seems ok.
I'll have to get a multi meter out and inspect a little further, do staters go out in these usually? Is there a better way to do the spark test? I can't imagine it's the battery, it will crank forever and ever, but never starts.
Probably not the stator or regulator - bike wouldn't be charging and you'd have a dead battery. Bad temp sensor would make it hard to start but not impossible. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/cold-start-issues-sm630.18411/ As mentioned, check the coil primary/secondary and the crank position sensor. Here's a good thread on the CPS. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/630-no-spark.36749/page-2 Might be something here to help (your 610 is pretty similar to a 630) http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/documented-630-part-failures-known-weak-areas.30149/ Good luck! .
Further to what Bob mentioned make sure that the coil lead is indeed correctly inserted into the spark plug cap. I've seen this issue firsthand on a 630 where the tech pulled the plug lead partially from the plug cap and "no more spark".
thank you for the suggestions. I'm getting a new spark plug tonight as well as bringing a multimeter home to check the stator and other various items. I hope to have this resolved ASAP as I'm dying to ride.
So I tested the spark plug and nothing changed, got the multi meter out and tested the cps and stator. I got a reading of 0.1 for the stator, and 3.5-4.5 for the cps. So bad cps?
0.1 and 3.5-4.5 what? Ohms? Megaohms? Volts? Bananas? Also, measure this other stuff I suggested: Some info on coil resistance: http://www.ngk.de/en/technology-in-detail/ignition-coils/maintenance/diagnosis/
Sorry, It was late when I was tired as heck when I typed that out. I tested the coil, voltage regulator, and battery they all came back in spec. The CPS came back at 0.1 ohm. The CPS at 3.5, i didn't notice a symbol next to it, I will get a more accurate reading tonight, I should have known better than to do this so late. Any suggestions on where to source these parts if they are indeed bad? My nearest dealer is over 100 miles away.
The two guys with bad CPS reported no continuity thru their sensors. If you're showing a resistance value it may not be the CPS. .
Yea, I'm thinking it is stator as that was supposed to have 100 ohms and mine is showing 0.1 which is pretty low. I'm going to remeasure tonight to double check, but will most likely order the part after that. l
First image is the cps This is the stator in test procedure 2, there was no continuity in test 3 as described. Thoughts?
