Does it have a kill switch on the handlebars, with a multi switch set up. If so have you opened up the switch housing and checked the kill switch itself wiring inside the switch housing. Or the harness containing these wires down the length of the handlebars to the steering head area where most of the stress takes place on this group of wires?
Just check the kill switch wire at the coil/CDI and see if it is grounded. If it is, you have a short in your kill switch wire.
Stator resistance is irrelevant on starting, the crank sensor is the one giving signal. Unless you have the required resistance it means the internal windings are shorted to each other and will not give a strong enough signal for ignition. My coil was open but you will not fire without the minimum resistance. If you have fuel pump prime you are wasting time looking at the kill switch.
I do have fuel pump prime, so I wouldn't think the switch would be the issue. I'm thinking of trying the generic CPs first as they are inexpensive, I don't really want to spend 320 dollars on a guess and fail. I went back and triple measured the cps, I got readings anywhere from 1 to 55 ohms so I'm thinking maybe that is my issue as it is supposed to read 100 ohms. Does anyone know definitively what the stator should read? The manual says 0,21 so is that 0 - 21 ohms or?
Like I was saying the stator is your charging system, I wouldn't be concerned with it unless your battery is going dead. I used the cheap pick-up. The only problem is that they are adjustable so measure carefully before installing.
Well, in this other post you say you measured the CPS and it looks like you're measuring 1.25x10^6 ohms... Then again you also said: So it looks like you've measured the CPS at 0.1 ohm, 1 ohm, 3.5 ohms, 55 ohms, and 1,250,000 ohms? I'm confused... Is it supposed to be 100 ohms, or 0.21 ohms? You're all over the place with your tests and your numbers. You need to me more methodical when you're trying to diagnose something like this. Post up a screenshot of the wiring diagram for your bike and we can tell you exactly what to test and what to look for, or take it to a shop.
Kyle, Sorry, I need to proofread these posts better and I also need to stop posting them from the garage floor with an ipad and instead put them together when I get back inside with my PC. The photo is correct, that is one of my readings from the CPS. I've measured the CPS at 1 - 55 ohms, the reading seems to jump around while the tester is connected, I'm not sure if it is poor connection or the CPS itself. The 0.1 reading was the stator, not the CPS, that was my mistake. Again, I meant to say CPS no Stator and 1-55 not 0.1. The CPS is supposed to read 100 Ohm according to the test procedure. The stator test states 0,21 ohms, so is that between 0-21 ohms? I'm attaching the two pages I'm referencing. Hopefully that clarifies my statements and makes the problem more clear. Thanks for bearing with me.
I'd like to see the wiring diagram to cross check the wire colors from the picture. However, it looks like you want 100 ohms across the CPS terminals, 0.21 ohms between any two of the stator outputs, and no continuity between the ground and any of the stator wires. That is three separate tests, and the last two have multiple options (because there are 3 stator wires, right?). It doesn't seem like the stator should be the problem. The bike might run fine without the stator even connected, it has a battery. I'd check the CPS again more carefully, and I'd check the coil, and check all the stuff that powers the coil/CDI. Without a wiring diagram I don't know what exactly to check, but you need to check for power and continuity on the signal wires. I wouldn't spend a dime until I measured all of these things.
For test three the result was 0. Test two was 0.1. I'm thinking cp which I've ordered from a local vendor that has generic cps. The coil tested in spec. According to the procedures the CDI test involves the bike running which is obviously not possible right now. Battery voltage tested fine as well. I've attached the schematic and the key for it.
I'm having a similar problem (06 sm610). My starts and runs fine until it warms up, then it will not run. Someone mentioned to me that it could be an ignition module. Is there such a thing on the 610.
Check the connectors on your fuel line. I had similar issues and it eventually stopped working all together. Turned out to be the fuel line connector had snapped inside the line. I was lucky and had another bike the same to test it. Drove me nuts trying to figure it out.
Ok, so it lives once again! Pulsar coil/cops replaced and fired right up. I used this http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=351022802385 and it was almost identical to ours, but the wires were coming out of the side, however it fit like a charm and was a lot cheaper than the stator assembly from husky. I'll ride it tomorrow, but as of this moment it runs so it should be all set. Thanks for everyone's help.
Enjoy your ride, it is always good to know we don't need to rely on KTM for our parts. We can install Chinese parts made for Japanese quads into our Italian bikes.
Hope it helps someone out, love the bike and was puss edit was down all week. Guess I need to get a backup bike. Haha
