There is only one option that I know of at this time other than the moss. That is the Rexxer. It is not configured for the TR yet, they need a bike on the east coast. They can and will do it, when a bike gets to them.
I suspect that it might be an antivirus plugin on MadDogTRs browser which is causing the issue. I think some anti-virus packages will disallow URLs with a ? in them on the most secure settings. He should try using a different browser to see if that makes a difference. If not then briefly disable the anti-virus and try the reply link again. If it's being blocked on a computer or network supplied by your employer, find a new job
Outside of Richmond VA. Every time I have talked to them, they have been great. 7331 George Washington Memorial Highway Yorktown VA, 23692 757.989.5000 David is the programmer, but they are all great people. Their stuff works on the Beemers already, it is mainly to configure for the Terra, not sure what it would take. Bet you would have the sweetest running Terra if you did run it by, and you wouldn't have to add anything to the bike to spoof, etc.
Installed the wukka king to my Terra today. Easy install and after a quick 5 minute blast can defo say that it's more responsive. Fitted a 15t front sprocket last week and ran a few drill holes through the cats in the exhausts so the Husky is only gonna get better.
Never ever heard of it being a issue. I and many others left it in for r1200 GS service. It just makes the bike think its colder outside ...but as always...YMMV
Well, I must be the only one who didn't get the results fron the Wuka. My bike still stumbles/stalls off the line, in fact it seems to be getting worse. Especially after starting. The ambient temp is about 33C here ATM, so it shouldn't take long to get to running temp. Everything else about the bike I love, even better now that I've got the 15T CS on. But the stumbling problem is driving me crazy! (Not to mention making me look like a dickhead in front of my workmates when I leave work). I really don't know what else to do.
Only had my Tr for a month and only 400 km on it but have stalled it a couple of times. Have done the same with my ZX10 but maybe the big single pot needs a bit more finesse when pulling away. Will find out this weekend with the plug fitted. As for the 1000km service, it's easy enough to un install so will take mine off.
The pc5 does not alter the ecu map. It is an added layer of spoofing to trick our wonderful ecu's. The PCV is a very good add on, but still only a spoofer. The DynoBoost is yet another spoofer falling in between the booster plug and PCV/autotune add ons. The dynoboost ties into the o2 sensor to fake out the ecu on richer condition that the IAT spoofer creates and ecu may try and compensate for.
PCV + autotune is more than just a "spoofer" The removal of the stock O2 sensor puts the stock ecu into open loop mode, and the PCV + Autotune read the exhaust gasses and alter the fuel injection pulses to make sure that the target air/fuel ratios are met.
PC5 does not adjust the ECU, but rather spoofs it with its own set of variables. My Wolf 3D engine management system is not a spoofer, it is a programmable ECU/ecm. Sorry, PCV falls into spoofer category, in my book.
PVC intercepts the signal to the injector and alters it. The ecu doesn't even know that anything is different. Ecu is not getting spoofed. When it is being tricked into thinking the temp is different *that* is a spoof. The PCV + autotune us a closed loop system, downstream of the ecu. Not a spoofer in my book
Nope, just read all the instructions again, you have to put it inline. You have to tap the harness. It is the mother of all spoofers, and well thought out. I just read about a product called the MegaSquirt by Bowling & Grippo, that according to the one source where I found it, is a stand alone system, to replace the stock ECU, completely, like my Wolf 3D for my truck project that may happen this winter.
It shouldn't unless the warranty issue is directly attributable to the temperature, or the EFI, or something else which could be detrimentally affected by modifying a fuel map to make it more rich. These plugs are very easy to install and remove. If you were worried that it might cause a warranty issue, you could always remove it before you took it to the shop each time.
Can anyone comment on when a booster plug install is appropriate? I mean should you wait till 1000kms on the bike or would it be fine to do it right away?
