Brake Arcing tool

Steve, The Maico brake shoes I am starting with are oversize and need fitting, thats where the need for tool was for me. I do understand what Fran means. I could also turn the linings with this tool. I would probaly try a stone wheel instead of the carbide cutter.I have never checked a lining to see how bad they runout. Thank you all for the imput.
Bill

I bougt my first husky a 1983 model in 1992 however I know quite a few folks who had them new and raced enduro and hare scrambles with them. Talk of shimming the cam is common. I couldn't really figure a way I liked to and tig welded another layer on the metal cap to the aluminum shoe which essentially did the same thing. I never had need to tamper with the dual leading shoe front ones. It is quite common for the cam to have quite a bit of movement before contact even with new shoes. What I was suggesting was that there seems more of a need to build the drum itself back to dimention. I can't say I recall seeing wear on any shoes only in the half toward the cam. Somewhere in the 1985 area they decided to add a lip to the backing plate and drum and make the shoes thinner I am not sure if that made the things last better or not. Perpaps ten yeas ago a new hub with drum was $400 and a husqvarna new 51cc chain saw was $250 which I used as part of the logic of buying a new left over bike at cheap price.

Fran

Save the dust and do it in a lath. You just need a sharp tool so it does not dig in and break the friction material. And go slow of course. I chuck up the backing plate on the axle with the shoes mounted and use a lath dog tightened up on the axle to drive the backing plate. Cut them about .015 under the drum. After break in you will have just about 100% contact.