All 2st Brake pedal height to foot peg

rik smits ...
the dunking dutchman

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...a=X&ei=OYvFTZXtIYrL0QG71aGBCA&ved=0CEEQ9QEwBQ

A tall seat and 1/2" lower pegs isn't going to be enough for him.

Rik is huge and he is pretty fast. I've raced against him many times.

Good lord. He looks like he's sitting on a kid's bike.

Does he use an extra tall seat?

It would think it would be easy to be quick on a full size bike when you're 7'4" tall; - it's like me(5'8") getting on an 80cc or 100cc kids bike. It's easy to ride a kids bike quick, cause they're so easy to manhandle......

I will also say, just for the hec of it, make sure your boots are comfortable and you may even need different ones. I like a compact style boots. Last year I bought a new pair of boots broke em in and hated them!! I WAS SLOWER with those boots and NOTHING felt right. (sold em to a buddy at a slight loss) grabbed a new pair and BINGO- Rock and ROLL!!

drill the rivet, remove the pedal, serrate it, flip it over (if yers is offset) or fab one up w/ a drop tab and rivet it back on there. that'll buy ya a lot of mm's.

I was considering drilling it and dropping it down with a tab but I just moved to a different state and don't know anyone who can do a nice fab/weld on a brake pedal. I used to own an auto shop and had just about every tool and machine known to man but when I sold the business all I kept was hand tools.

DIY- possibilities are endless. i cant weld, doubt i'd weld that arm if i didnt have too. but i can rivet. just roll the tab over the top of the lever so the rivet(s) capture both sides of tab sadnwiching the arm so the tab cant rock. cold roled 'll serve ya well there..tap it and form it to the arm contours as much as possible, vice, rolled rods for dolly's etc all help here....also, support the littel "pedal" some with an "L" bend at that end then rivet the pedal to it or notch a small tab and fold that into the pedal so it cant rock . cant see yer arm so im guessing here...but use stainless or Ti rivets, not allum ones and dont make the holes too big and the heads should go to the case-side so the shanks dont gouge the covers etc. and i think youll be suprisd how strong tiny little SS or Ti rivets are used in concert. might take ya some trial and error and its a rare day when my fab's come out right the first time (my fraken-plate did thank god) but you'll get it. spend a couple few hours, get creative and double it up in places if nec... get it all mock'd up, filed smooth and pretty then prime and paint it so it dont rust, rivet it on, puff out yer chest at a job well done cuz there's only one control more important than the brake pedal and thats the loud handle....then, go roost braaaap!

rivets rock. here's the infamous franken-plate i built for my 125...was for an '08, didnt fit, i made it fit. and cover a LOT more than it did when i got it. suckers bomb proof, outta scrap i had laying around behind my bench...now get out there and start fabbin' mister.

mreeeep!

I'm 6'6" and ride a 2010 WR250 set up much like the others discussed here. Tall seat from Guts. I run the hard foam because when it's that thick, the standard foam is softer than I prefer. As for the pegs, I use IMS Yamaha low pegs. With a minor amount of filing, they fit great and are easy to get. To relieve the brake pedal issue I grind the underside of the arch to provide additonal clearance. I also grind the frame just a bit. Sometimes the weld forces the peg spring to sit higher than it should. Smoothing out the weld so the spring sits as low as possible helps.

I'm glad you mentioned grinding the pedal. I have already ground the pedal a little but I'm going to get ugly with it and gain some more clearance. Also you mentioned the spring and as it would happen my spring is seated in the perfect spot the give me the least clearance possible, I will take care of that while replacing the pegs and hopefully that will get me enough. As my Gearne G10s get broken it it's not as bad as it used to be but oddly when I bring my foot around to get on top of the brake pedal the heel will sometimes catch and lock in to the frame and give me an "Oh Crap!" moment. I'll be glad when it's all sorted out.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/rear-brake-pedal-want-it-lower.11594/#post-111576

I think George had a modded brake pedal.

I was the one that had contacted George a year ago and mentioned it in that thread. He said he'd work on it and let me know what he came up with. I never heard from him again.

Well, he may well have forgotten, he is getting up there.

I'll check on it next time I'm in the shop (if I remember...

Appreciate it! I'm still in the market, if he drums something up. I'd prefer buying a second brake lever, vs cutting mine up.