I total agree here the bike need to be ridden, 4k is the sweet spot on my bike. It has no torque at the low rpms, but spin it up and she will respond. I must be lucky after reading about the rough running bikes, mine is completely stock and runs pretty smooth. 50/50 tires are my next upgrade.
WRT to breaking the engine in , I take it the original oil is fully synthetic. I am now after 3 days of owner ship ( ..) about to do the obsessive early change. I generally believed that fully synthetic would reduce the bedding in of piston,rings /cylinder . BMW strongly suggested that dino oil be used until at least 10,000 km for the 1200 boxer. I didnt used synthetic until 30,000 km for the R1200R (yep took that long for oil use to resolve to nil.) I s the Rotax engine different . I am just about to get some castrol Racing 1 Synthetic. Thoughts would be really appreciated...I am on the bottom of the learning curve..and loving it. BTW soon to decide om which ... bash plate/bars/rad guard/centrestand/ maybe Safari tank/ Luggage rack, soft bags/ soft bag pannier frame / power accessory plug/ ?bark busters/ ... figure about $2100 to $2300 Analyzing thru every bit of anecdotal info I can get. Thanks for all those who post their experiences.
Although the owners manual lists Castrol Power1 Racing SAE10W-50 as the recommenced oil, this does not mean it was its factory fill. I agree with your point about not using a fully synthetic oil to bed in. I left my original oil in the engine until the 1,000km service as specified and then changed over to Mobil 1 4T.
Thanks aus.. I guess the original fill is important.. Very hard to go back to dino oil from Synthetic . I wonder what went in first up. Maybe I should ask my helpful shop?! %^#(*(%$@ see if they vaguely remember. Probably put olive oil to save a few bucks.
That doesn't make any sense...at least where water spins a certain way on our continent. Olive oil is $0.22 an ounce where Mobil One Synthetic is $0.16 an ounce. If they wanted to save money they'd put in a decent quality dino at $0.10 an ounce....less than half the cost of olive.
I had my Strada re MOSSed after break in and first service. It felt stronger and smoother, even the shifting action felt better with the fresh oil. This thing has a top end rush, I had a chance to rev it out through the gears last week. It has satisfactory grunt down low, but my last bike was a Suzuki DRZ 400 SM, so that is my point of reference.
Is there any torque values regarding oil filter cover or just a firm tweek. Looked all over but none that I can see. Real time oil change occurring. Assistance totally appreciated. BTW this bike really is a hoot. Getting Sam farckles soon!
Page F4.13 in the shop manual, 10Nm, though I used the 'firm tweek' method: Wow thats service. Thanks . Lota people here going to end up with a friend in Oz if they're no careful..
Same here with the Eruption fitted, the bike will pull cleanly from 2500 rpm in top verrrrryyyyy nicely
This what it was like before modding the bike, no response unless you rung the throttle, but now no longer a issue, pulls cleaner than ever before!
Breaking in an engine, do you have to do that nowadays? I thought if fully synth oil was present then you just rode it with a little care but once hot I ragged mine and she now goes like a gooden and no oil from the exhaust either. I know if you take these modern engines with that type of oil in and labour the engine the bore doesn't like it and they glase the rings!
I thought someone had posted some torque values in another older thread. If in doubt, I would use blue thread lock or Yamabond with a firm twist.
