I wasn't paying attention and connected my battery terminals on the opposite posts. Smoke began coming up from the engine area and when I saw it, I realized what I had done. There were melted wires visible. The wires leading to the 4 wire round plug by the oil filter cover and the red wires coming from the battery to the oil filter area. I removed the seat and plastics and cut the tape off the wires to get a better look. I ended up bringing the bike to a car stereo shop, where they cut out and replaced the melted wires and the four wire plug. The bike will turn over but not start. It will run if there is fuel in the throttle body but when that is gone, it shuts off. The injectors aren't working. Any ideas? Could it be wiring? ECU? There is no dealer in my area. I have no idea what to do. Is there a dealer in eastern Canada that I can send my ECU to? Does the ignition have to be with the ECU? Thanks for any help/feedback!
I have never worked on your bike, but may I suggest that you are not getting power to the fuel pump. Paw Paw
So sorry to hear this. Electrical troubleshooting can be very tedious--sorry friend. I can only recommend approaching it methodically if you plan to do it yourself, or rent a trailer and get it an expert. PawPaw is right, if it runs with fuel in the throttle body, then it is likely not being fed fuel. So, you might work back from the injector and look for damaged wiring. The fuel pump is in the tank (not easy to get to), but you should able to check the wiring. If you're lucky, any damaged wiring will be evident and a repair will get you back on the road. If I remember correctly, when you first put your key in and turn the bike on, the fuel pump is what makes that sort of buzzing sound after the clocks cycle. Can anyone here confirm that's true? If you don't hear the buzz it might be an easy indicator that the fuel pump isn't getting power. This place, and advrider, is full of TR owners who will do their best to assist--good luck and please keep us posted.
yes, fuel pump makes a faint buzzing sound when the ignition is turned on. Just cycle ignition on and off and listen. The pump is in the tank and accessible under the seat. But first listen closely if it works at all. Do you see EWS in the lower left corner of the LCD display? If not that's at least something positive. Still may be a damaged ECU but it's really difficult to diagnose remotely and without GS911. Did you check all fuses? Fuel pump and ignition share the same fuse so probably not a fuse issue but still worth checking. Do you have the workshop manual?
Thanks for the replies! I will check these things tomorrow and let you know. Wiring and electrical are really NOT my strong point. I'm thinking my next step will be to send the ecu to a dealer that can check it and go from there.
Couldn't wait... Fuel pump definitely cycles up. Fuses are all good. No EWS showing on display. Everything lights up. Check engine light is on. The bike turns over but just won't start
Sorry to hear of your troubles. Im in Newfoundland too. If i can help in any way let me know. Im no wiring expert either. Duane Moss is an excellent bike mechanic. Im not sure if he does wiring. I have his number if you want it PM me.
Could be a bad injector. You fried wires, well, the injector is just wires (coil) that moves a metering needle.
Best things to do is a diag. Buy a K+DCAN cable like this http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Interface-Di...123901?hash=item1eb8b896fd:g:MyAAAOSwHQ9WaACV Download and install Rheingold 3.39 which still contains VIN of our husky bikes. if it is the same diag connector as the one on the nuda you can connect the obd reader directly like that. (sorry for the french) I used an old Molex to do the wiring http://img11.hostingpics.net/pics/120397LP4POWEXT12main.jpg
I checked with a couple dealers who are listed as having the moss system. They don't know anything about it and haven't used it. Not very confidence inspiring. Can anyone tell me if there are any Canadian dealers that have the system and know what they are doing? Thanks!
how do you know that there's fuel in the throttle body? Just wonder if you have the air box off. Then you should be able to see if the injector works at all. Any damaged wires leading to the injector? Measure if the injector gets any power. Since it fires up i am somewhat optimistic that it's not the ECU. Maybe ping WayneC to get his input.
I was told by the guy who did the wiring that the bike would run until the throttle body emptied. The bike was back together when I picked it up. Toy Box is BMW and they can't do any diagnostics. I went there right after I picked it up to check.
If all fuses are okay, I would back probe the ECU plug to ground a light bulb on wire 10 (terminal K1) which is a low side driver for the injector, a yellow-violet wire. Put the other side of the globe to batt +ve, crank the engine and if the ECU is fine the globe will flash. An easy way to check if you're getting live data from the ECU would be to check air temp reading on the dash and see if it is a plausible reading eg. close to ambient.
Ambient air temp is dead on. There are several yellow/violet wires and I can't tell which goes to terminal K1. I'd rather not take the plug apart myself. Is it reasonable to think that the injector should be ok, since the bike wasn't running when this happened? I'm thinking the wire leading to the injector was damaged by the wires melting right next to it and that was missed when the repair was done. If I bring it to a bike mech, can he test the correct wire close to the ecu and then at the injector to see if power is getting lost along the way?
yes, that would be an easy thing to do. Just make sure to unplug the ECU before doing anything. It's just too fragile. Wiring diagrams and the extended workshop manual can be downloaded here. Take those to the bike mech. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/wo...manual-wiring-diagram-all-in-one-place.84827/
If the ecu is unplugged, how can you test to see if there is power being sent from it to the injector?
you can't but you can check if the cable is ok between ECU and injector which i thought you had asked. To do that you would have to apply a current to the wire which i wouldn't want to go into the ECU (slightly paranoid). If you don't get a signal at the injector you'd still need to check if it's a broken cable.
Testing while cranking the engine, as previously suggested, would determine whether or not the ecu is sending to the injector. Maybe a good idea to test just the wire first and if it's not working, that is the issue. If it is working, then check it while the ecu is plugged in. That should determine if there's a fault in the wire or in the ecu. I'll get it checked and update. Thanks!
