Cam chain tentioner 10 clicks out 2300 miles

Anybody have a picture of your MCCT installed? I installed one last weekend, but have been a bit hesitant to ride it because I've been second guessing myself. Or, if not a picture, maybe a measurement of the amount of thread showing between the locknut and the end nut?

Also, what is a good process for removing the MCCT if necessary? Should the tension be backed off a bit first, or can it just be pulled out?

Sorry I don't any pics.
Setting it is more about feel and noise than measurments.

For removal I would unlock it and back it out a couple turns, then remove.

The amount of thread exposed is relative to the chain condition, so a picture of another bike would not be of much value.
If you question your adjustment, reinstall your auto adjuster, turn the engine over or start it briefly, then pull it out and measure the total exposed length and compare it to the length of your adjusted manual adjuster.

It seems like the MCCT can get you a longer cam chain life if set properly, but people worry about setting it wrong. Appropriate force on the tensioner and chain noise are different, depending on who is listening and setting it.

So how about using the ACCT to get a measurement of extension? Set the MCCT to the same extension and you know that it won't move until you decide to move it, say at the next oil change.

I think I will get a MCCT unless there is a problem with this method I overlooked.

I ended up doing as Xcuvator and Barterer said and reinstalling the ACCT and measuring. I then reinstalled the MCCT and adjusted it in to the same extension. Then, I tried turning it in just a tad, but it didn't change the noise level any, so I returned it to the ACCT length. Its definitely hard to be confident since the engine is already pretty noisy. My ACCT was five clicks out (this is the second cam chain) at probably about 4000 miles.

4500 miles and my CCT is at 10 clicks.

I just ordered a new one.

Can someone link me the the instructions for changing it.

I ordered a rotor puller. Anything else I might need?

Gaskets?

Thanks

You might need a breaker bar on that puller to get the flywheel loose.. mine was on very tight. Also, a torque wrench that goes to at least 94 ft*lbs. Two pennies to jam the transmission gears while you are putting all that force on the flywheel puller (one penny may pass right through the gears) I am too cheap to buy the MotionPro gear jammer, but that is probably the best option. New coolant and oil, obviously, and might as well change the oil filter at the same time.

Gaskets.. a water pump gasket and two valve cap gaskets, and some loctite 510 or similar flange sealant for the valve cover. I'm sure the service manual, if I could read it, would say to replace both side cover gaskets.. not necessary.

While you have the right side cover off, check that right crankshaft nut, rumoured to be loose on some bikes, which shears the woodruff key(?)

Since the oil pump is in the right side cover, be sure its little drive shaft does not fall out, and carefully thread it back onto the crankshaft when the cover goes back on.

There are some good instructions at http://supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?t=60551

Here is how the MCCT looks against the ACCT at the exact same extension. (damn good idea, Xcuvator )



The MCCT went in perfect.. just a smidge of resistance against the tensioner shoe as I tightened the 8mm bolts.

And to eliminate any confusion about tensioner clicks, grooves or ridges, here is Barterer's Definitive Guide to Husky 610 Cam Chain Tensioner Clicks (BDGH610CCTC):

Number of audible clicks Vs. Distance from seated (mm)
0... 0.00
1... 0.90
2... 1.91
3... 2.91
4... 3.91
5... 4.92
6... 5.91
7... 6.91
8... 7.93
9... 8.94
10... 9.93
11... 10.98
12... 11.94
13... 12.98
14... 13.97
15... 14.94

..so for practical purposes, 1 click = 1mm extension. Hope that helps.

Decided to check my cam chain tension today. Last time I checked it it was 4 clicks at 3000 miles. Today it has what looks like 5 clicks at 7572 miles.

So here is what happens to the reed valve if you have a loose chain. Halls Cycle to the rescue! My chain wore right thru the screw head, I had to use needle nose vise grips to pull the stud out of the hole. At least it came out. The plastic valve flap has a KTM p/n on it 161534801. Halls is the best!

Every one has a different idea on these things. I asked my local dealer in the UK husky sport who's mechanic is an old boy who's has been working on husky's for ever about it. He said the clicks don't mean a thing the only way to tell if it's worn is buy measuring it. The only other thing you can do is change it according to the hours of use / mileage husky recommend