CANNOT Get My Crankcase To Split - Newbie In Trouble Again

You need to use all four screws to hold the plate down.

plate has to be bolted down flat against the cases.Thread holes in the plate that your puller can bolt to. use the largest bolt that will fit through your puller. When everything is solid and no flex it will split.

Need a puller big enough to utilise four bolt holes and a tube welded in the centre with the nut welded on the end to allow the plate to bolt upto the face of the case.internally looks good but filter needs a clean.

All of the above. What he needs to do is cough up the $70 and buy the Tusk case splitter I linked and be done with it. He is lucky he didnt destroy the cases and the crank snout with that homemade tool.

Holy crap man, you need to really know when to stop cranking. All the force is stretching the unsupported mild steel you have there.

Here are some pics of my puller that I made ,
maybe you could modify yours or just start over and make a new one.

Just spend the $70 and get it over with. It is not worth the risk of ruining magnesium cases. They are not the somewhat forgiving aluminum.

And, the advantage of the Tusk tool is it will work on any year or make of bike you own for the rest of your life, where the homemade tools (I had nothing against homemade tools, just sayin) is it is much less adaptable to other engines.

I wish one of you guys was my neighbor. I could stop by your garage for advice BEFORE I get into trouble. (And to borrow your tools.) At least you know now that I'm not exaggerating when I describe myself as a newbie.

Will look more closely at Auto's and 84Scrambler's splitters. I only have oxyacetylene capability. No arc, mig, tig, etc. so don't know if I'll be able to recreate those pullers.

Would have popped for the Tusk initially but am trying to save every $$ possible. Looking more and more like the Tusk will be an unavoidable expense.

Looking like the weekend will be warm enough for me to get back out to the barn. Thanks again, guys.

Binx

I agree that a better case splitter is in order but based on all the Husky cases I've split your cases should have moved apart at least a little even with your limited case splitter setup.

Are there any signs of rust on the crank? Does the crank even turn? If you look between the crank discs can you see signs of water in the bottom of the crankcase?

If your bike got water in the crankcase, even a small amount, you may have to soak it in order to loosen the rust. I've seen guys on this site talk about soaking their motors in WD40, transmission fluid, diesel, and other rust cutting liquids. Soaking can take weeks but its better that breaking the motor.

He had the bike running before he tried to split it, a better puller and some heat will do it, if it doesn't" move leave the puller under pressure overnight, apply some more heat and that should separate them. An oven would be the best way to warm up the cases.

I decided to follow the group's advice, and popped for a Tusk splitter.

Hoping my next post will be an update on the successful split and details on what I find inside. Thanks again. Binx

You will not regret it.

Hi,

With a single cylinder engine I split just recently, I made 3 tools, one to push on the crank and

one to push on the sprocket output shaft, wind them both down evenly.

And the last tool to push the crank out of the other side case.

As others have said the tools need to bolt flat onto the case.

Have a good look and make sure you haven't missed a bolt some where.

Here are some pics,

I made these with a hand drill, angle grinder and arc welder.

It took quite a while to cut the shapes out with a 4" angle grinder.

Ignore the spark plugs, I use the case half as a magneto tester,

I spin a old crank without a rod with a 1/2 inch reversing drill.

Cheers, Dave.

Ahoy, Lads - took delivery on my Tusk splitter and put it to immediate use.



Cranked that baby down and got the cases to separate a little. Wasn't comfortable putting any additional force on the splitter so sprayed a little PB Blaster on the crankshaft and let that sit overnight. Next morning a couple more turns and the cases blew apart. I mean BLEW apart. I nearly soiled my trousers. I thought the whole thing had exploded.



I needed to get inside the motor 'cause I knew there was a problem with 3rd gear. Sure enough, its missing a cog. All other tranny parts look to be in good shape.



Inside, the cases look to be in nice shape. There's about a half-inch of thick slurry in the bottom of each case, which I'm guessing is a mix of oil and pulverized cog.



Should I replace the entire tranny? Or is it okay to replace just the defective 3rd gear? (I got a replacement tranny on ebay.)

It's been an adventure so far, lads. Counting on your continued guidance. Binx

If you have a spare tranny replace the whole thing and clean and inspect all thr other components,i would imagine the slurry is a mixture of oil and clutch wear the tooth was probably fished out with the oil shortly after the break.take note of how the tranny goes back together use a camera, there are manuals showing the how the components sit.

I agree with jo360, the sludge is oil and clutch fiber material and is not unusual. I would just replace that one gear unless you have or can easily get a complete one. I know there is at least one '75-'76 175 transmission on eBay right now.

probably be best to use the best of what you have in your possession..whatever that involves..inspect the shift dogs closely..they can wear faster than the gear teeth.