Carb Conversion

Yeah, why can't they offer us the iBeat software at a reasonable price? It isn't like they're Honda and there's a dealer every 20 mile or so. I feel better if they'd just offer the iBeat to TE owners at their cost.

KTM makes several injected DS bikes.

I'm sorry but I can't not comment on this - the first paragraph is wholly inaccurate. The Mikuni Ibeat system was first installed on the SM & TE610s for 2007 and I met the Japanese Mikuni engineers who were at the factory working with Husqvarna developing the system. The system was then installed on TE and SMRs for 08 and on. The installation was co developed with Mikuni, it's certainly not a Suzuki cast off.

The comment about drilling out the throttle bodies is partially correct. This is a recognised mod on early 08 bikes which helps the low speed running, not specifically for stalling. 09s / 10s don't need this as the throttle bodies are different.


There are a lot of TE & SMRs out there that run very well and don't suffer from stalling. Si Wakely won the British E2 Enduro Champsionship on a standard TE450 08 last year so you don't need carbs to win but I do understand if you are one of the minority who is suffering an issue how frustrating it can be. Idle speed is crucial, as is TPS set up but also mechanical and electrical items such as valve clearances, air leaks, ignition coil etc can all cause similar issues which automatically get blamed now on the EFI.

The fact that the Husqvarna WEC team is using carbs shouldn't be used to condemn the Ibeat system. Ibeat has been designed to work on production engine within certain parameters, not to be a fully configurable engine management system that a highly tuned factory race bike would require.

I would be interested to know how many people who are suffering from stalling have actually had their bike set up on a dyno rather than 'seat of the pants' tuned. Every engine is different and therefore there can't be one optimum setting that suits everyone.

Dave

My 08 TE has been excellent. Had the dealer check the tps with his i-beat before I took it home. A year later a tuner put it on his dyno and got a little improvement. I have been running the snot out of my bike and it never flames out, stalls out or difficult to start.

Stalling, flaming out, popping on decel

When I first got my 08 TE510 I used to have all kinds of stalling, popping on decel and flame out. When I removed the tank to install my IMS fuel tank, I found the spade connectors on the ignition coil to be very loose. I crimped them tighter, (it was actually a little tough to get them back on) and cured all my problems. This was a very simple fix for a problem that should not be there to begin with. I think coil connections should be studs with nuts and lock washers, especially with the vibrations of a 4 stroke single.

excellent post david, but your last paragraph nails it in my mind, EFI is too sensitive for a home tinkerer to get anywhere near right, especially where precise fuelling at many different rpm/throttle position combinations are required. add to that the myriad of symptoms falsely blamed on injection and the home mechanic can easily end up chasing their tail with nowhere to find or reference a starting point.


paul.

Better tell that to this guy, I see a laptop, but where's the dyno?

so by that you're saying he tunes his bike using JUST the laptop?
how do you know it hasn't been set up previously on a dyno and he's making adjustments from there?
the point is that you can tinker and adjust all you like but if you don't have a known base line that works to begin with you're just chasing your tail often times.
I'm relatively inexperienced with carbs and for that matter dirt bikes, the last time i rode one before buying my TE was as a kid, but i've had injected road bikes for 20 years and drawing from that experience i know that getting your base settings (TPS Position, idle speed) right BEFORE modifying fueling is the only way to do it right.
incidentally, your chap with his lap top may have replaced a tps and needed the laptop to set it, mV or degrees, you can do either with the right program, or he's raising his idle.
you don't need a dyno for every adjustment you make, but you do need one to get the fueling for the one engine the FI system is feeding correct.

paul.

I heard from a guy from a guy from a guy bla bla bla ...

This is what I know. I know MY TE510 - 09 runs best on low to 0% alcohol fuel. It runs best on fuel with a lower vs higher vapor point - and it runs best with 3 1/4 turns on the idle - and 3 turns if I'm REALLY slogging and clutching in first with the fan on.

I know the fuel injection system will take an offset based on running with the 02 sensor in - and this offset is applied to the race map once you pull it back out again. It takes my bike 50+kms of mixed riding to achieve this, and 3 or more ignition cycles. (start/ up to temp / off). I did mine at 300, 600 and 1000kms. The last one I did not make a noticeable change in spark plug color, exhaust plug color, or throttle response. I have never read about anyone else doing this - but it made a difference when I did it.

I know the best way to pinpoint the fuel to run is to operate my bike O2 in and the rest of the power up kit (no spark arrestor out). Only one fuel (Esso Premium) would run the bike without stumbling / FAIL errors - and this also was the fuel that ran best with no sensor in. Only 3 brand fuels would run without stumbling with the spark arrestor in/o2 in. Those are on my backup list.

I know when I roll my 510 off the carrier and fire it up DEAD COLD - and walk away from it to get my stuff on - that other riders come over and say "Does that ever run sweet" - and when I'm wrapped up in the bush clutching and huffing my way along that I don't miss a carb one bit. If it doesn't start (in gear clutch in) with one dab of the button (full out rippin hot) - then I go to 3 turns out on the idle. If I kill it with the back brake on crawl downhill - I bump it with clutch or tap the button and it's running. It will not die if I have the clutch in or let out the clutch with some throttle.

My bike will stall if I ask it to pull from idle with no throttle. No throttle opening - no go. POP - stop. Turn the throttle a bit and it will lug down. Turn the idle screw in another half turn and it will mask this but it is there. Idle is idle and it does not make any power at the zero throttle point.


I'd throw this thing in the trashcan if it bucked and surged like it did with no spark arrestor, O2 sensor, and Sunoco fuel 94oct fuel. Change the fuel / put in the spark arrestor and problem gone. Pull the 02 sensor and the exhaust bung – hang on! I had to learn what works for my bike.

I really wish I could help you guys with the flameout bikes. The Pop-stop mine did was cured with careful choice of fuel, and couple of runs with the 02 sensor in, tweaking the idle screw, and changing my off-idle throttle habits.

My EFI is excellent.

MAT

2 stroke fuel injection and oil injection like the outboards have would be the epotimy of motorcycle engines. I beilive if they bring out ones like that we would have great power curves great emmisions great ecconomy and hardly any weight, it will be the rivival of the 2 stroke!!!, probly wont hapen though might have to make it happen with a megasquirt system.? oh and cheap

cheers sid