I think if you put the filter in prior to putting the drain plug it could slide in too far and the tightening the drain plug will break the end off. This would be problematic if you just changed the oil and didn't clean the filter, it might be a good idea to check and make sure it wasn't blocking the oil drain. I say this because when I was trying to figure out which way it went in it the filter would slide way in with nothing to stop it.
can we narrow the search for the cause of the break to 3 causes? 1) abnormal vibrations 2) Filter end welding does not do well 3) Incorrect filter replacement procedure that causes a forcing. I do not know if I explained it well. add other "possible" causes of breaks if you want
I wish you were right but I'm afraid you're not I measured how much the screw enter throw the hole and is 11mm. When I put a gauge through the hole I see its tip from which I put it 12mm...
motranqui- no pardon necessary as you've never said anything off base...all good! I'm just glad you caught yours before that little end cap took off someplace in the engine and caused major damage, as happened in my case. So, in a way, you've had good luck in finding it before things got worse. Here's my opinion on the scenarios: 1.) Abnormal vibrations: My opinion is that this is the most likely cause, in combination with the possibility of there having been different batches of different quality screens. Most all seem to break in the same spot, which is on the actual surface/mesh and not quite at the join to the end cap. Which leads us to... 2.) Filter end welding does not do well: It could be that the join (weld) causes weakening of the too-thin mesh. Overall, though, I think it's extreme vibration causing the failure- the screen fits loosely in the cavity and must be vibrating around in there terrifically. As you've noticed the left hand screens fit snugly. 3.) Incorrect filter replacement procedure causes forcing: Two things here. 1.) I feel pretty strongly that this is unlikely as the bike is most often leaning or laying left position when replacing anything in the right hand side. This screen fits very loosely in it's cavity, and deep. I think it would be hard to have it hung up too far out and above the mating surface. But (and this is point 2) it may be that in the auto-assembly process (if this step is automated, at the factory) that it's experiencing mild damage/weakening owing to the manufacturing/assembly process of the engine...and then expressing itself in failure later. May be, but I doubt this is the case. On the oil drain plug hole interference issue: In post #26 of this thread I debunked that possibility. I originally thought it was very possible but, upon examining in how it all goes together by looking at my old case half, I was able to tell that while it's close there is no contact. Personally, as time goes by, I lean more and more towards running without the screen. In all of the times I have inspected mine I have never had debris on it. Hope this helps!
OK, I must confess that the last time I rode the bike (one week ago) I accelerate from low rpm in fourth gear and the bike vibrated like hell Although I enjoyed it because it shows how powerfull the bike is from 2.000 rpm Never again, I promise
I think you're fine- if I am understanding what you are describing you did what we would call "lugging the engine." That, I think, poses no real concern as far as the filter goes- I think it's the high frequency "buzziness" that creates issues (again because that thing fits in there quite loosely, free to really vibrate about.)
Yes, this way, from "low rpm" but accelerating harder and longer.. It's a blast View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=787Sw2WDOZM BTW, the "breakable" filter costs ... "only" 36€
Happened yesterday. Looking for someone to weld it. Was in there to tighten the crankshaft nut for the woodruff key
What about opening a new thread about it? I'd personally like to share a couple of opinions and I am sure that there are other people who'd like to do that as well... .
Went to change my oil yesterday and the end cap of the broken screen filter fell out of the front drain hole. It’s been 3000 miles since my last oil change and I have no clue how long it was in there. No marring and very little shavings on the magnet. I think I need a lottery ticket.
Joby- another thought.... If I were you I'd lay the old/broken one alongside the new replacement. That way you'll gain some feel for how much of the mesh material is missing (and may still be in the engine.) If there's a lot of "gap" (indicating missing mesh) it may be worth flushing some cheap oil through your engine to flush out what may be left. It may also be that there's not much in there, or that most of it came out w/ the oil change you did. Hard to tell. I always drain my oil into the catch pan with a piece of screen over the collection hole (of the pan) so that I can see whatever debris may come out w/ the drained oil.
GeekVenture here. I sold the 630 a while ago, but I'm still interested in this thread. HISTORY: I bought my bike off a senior gentleman who only put 74 miles on it before I took possession. I never romped on it and always take great care of my machines. I did, however, use the bike daily to commute to work at highway speeds and that's where 98% of the 11K miles came from on my ODO. OPINION: my 2 cents. I feel it's the engines vibrations that are cracking the brittle stainless mesh! POSSIBLE SOLUTION/FIX...maybe you guys can put a mesh filter condom around the little dickhead, that way if/when it does fail, at least you wont loose any pieces in your engine! Good luck gentlemen
Well... I checked it. The screen isn't there! I looked at the previous owner's post history and he didn't mention anything about this. The left side oil screens were very clean and the drain magnet fuzz was also minimal. I can tell you the bike doesn't turn into a pumpkin if you remove this oil screen, but I can't say about the long term as my bike has only got about 6.5k miles, and only around 1k in my possession.
I did mine a few weeks ago. The LH screen had a couple of small orange bits in it, as had been found by another member. The RH screen was completely clean. Just fuzz on the drain plug, no larger particles I could feel. Checked with the PO and he had never looked at the screens, just done frequent oil / filter changes. 6,000 miles on the bike.
I just obtained my first TE630 after looking for a while... PO didn't ever check the RH screen, and the ones before that only used it for commuting so I'm doubtful they did, either. It came out in pieces, but it looks like all of it is there.... I'm going to run it without until I can source some clutch washers and tear it apart again. Bike has 9200mi, but of course the screen could have been this way for a while.
May not feel like it but you're fortunate! Glad you caught it. My new one has been in the bike now for about 10-11K miles. I pulled it out the other week and it looked fine. I have a new one sitting on a shelf- and I thought of putting that one in- but, in the end, I thought "hmmm, the brand new/unused one is something of an unknown, while the one I've been running looks perfect and appears to be able to withstand the vibes." Hope that was the right choice, and also hope I'm not jinxing it now.
I found this subject very interesting. I am in the middle of rebuilding my 610e, so given the topic of this thread I carefully looked at the mesh filters. I found on that on my engine, the drain plug did hit the end of the pencil filter mesh. It may have to do with thickness of the copper sealing washer, but I could feel that the filter was hitting the end drain plug when screwed home. Not by much but it would have stopped the filter end sitting cleanly on shoulder in the case. I thought about a thicker washer but decided to just machine a bit of a taper on the drain plug end. It’s foolproof so future owners won’t have the same issue. May not be the real reason the screen ends are breaking off but at least the drain plug won’t be the cause. DM
