Daftmate- page 2 post 22 covers this. Now not doubting your experience- maybe your drain plug is longer or there is a difference in cases. Good job w/ the plug. Can’t go wrong w/ that.
Thanks Eric, yep saw the posts so I was a bit suprised that mine hit. Think my drain plug is (was !) standard , but my copper washer is just one from my own selection. Proper husky one maybe aluminium and possibly thicker ? Also as you say may be slight diffence in the cases, mine is a 2001 610e. As already said on previous posts it’s quite tight in there. I tried to show the interference in the first two pics. Pic#1 is the bare case showing the machined thread. pic #2 show the drain plug inserted, not easy to photograph but you can just about see the top of plug. Whilst they touch, the interference is not great, so you could still assemble. But it would cock the end of the screen over a bit and place additional stresses on what looks to be a fairly fragile item judging by some of the failures. Think overall the overalll view that vibration is the more likely cause seems correct, so I’ll just keep checking mine every oil change.
Recently I've bought a Yamaha YZ250F. Please, look the filter. Is 100% plastic made. Why SWM don't follow this way?. This way, in case that the filter would break, it wouldnt damage the engine… Easy change and it would improve the reliability of the bike...
The trough holes face outwards. 2 more cents...daftmate got me think'n Maybe the stock drain bolt actually is pinching the end of the filter screen-end right near it when we re-installed our drain plugs...or install a thinner washer as daftmate previously mentioned? If so, then it wouldn't be allowed to float around in its chamber with it's surrounding oil bath. This pinching would enable all of the engines vibrations to transfer directly into the stainless filter as it extends cantilevered from that drain-plug-pinched-end...flailing away until the screen cracks!? Maybe you guys should install the drain bolt prior to the screen insertion to make sure it still floating?
Thanks for the reply I know the holes are outwards .I was concerned about weather they were left to right or up and down ...?Or does the filter move around. I don’t want to run bike yet.. thanks Dan
I set it at 6/12 O'clock when I did it. Below is a link over to the original thread for some more discussion about this orientation. BUMP TO ADV TE630 THREAD ON FILTER HOLE ORIENTATION
Thanks 6/12 it is .mine has 4500 miles on it and no screen issues But reading the post I might take right out
Hi gang- sorry I’m late to the party. I don’t check the forum as often as I used to. Still have my 630 though- currently at 22K miles on it, and still that same replacement screen I put in back when the original cracked my case. As you’ve likely seen in re-reading this thread (and the one on Adv) the theory of the drain plug was largely debunked, although Dafts 610 seemed to have some collusion. Again for me on my bike looking at the inside of the old casing it sure looked to be the cause (as the threads reach up to the screen) but, alas, my plug was too short to reach the screen end. Now that’s not to say another bike wouldn’t have a longer drain plug, as seems the case with Daft ( and again good idea to have tapered it.) Also- it doesn’t matter if the little holes are 6/12, 7/1, 8/2 or anything else as, well, it’s going to be all of them within about one minute of firing the bike up (as it’s loose in the cavity and free floating.) Been a long time since I’ve checked mine...better do that.
Maybe it's user error on re-installation of the stainless filter by getting it hung up on the threads of the drain bolt upon re-insertion...making it not be seated at the bottom and standing proud? This could explain the stress cracked stainless mesh screens if they where under compression forces caused by it being pinched laterally. I did notice that I had marring from the end of the stainless filter on the inside of my case cover! I don't own the bike anymore, but I'm still curious and want to help future inmates. I wonder if the inside of anyone elses cover looks like mine did in the picture below? POSSIBLE TAKE-AWAY: Maybe you guys should install the feared stainless filter and case cover before re-installing the drain bolt if you do this process like the manual suggests you do on every oil change?
Hi. Let me tell it in in my native language: Joder, con lo fácil que sería que SWM hiciera ese filtro de plástico, como el de la Yamaha YZ250F (ver #83) y con ello se acabarían todos los problemas, ya que en el improbable caso de que rompiera, no dañaría el motor Damn, how easy it would be if SMW would made this filter of plastic material, as the one in suited in Yamaha YZ250F (see #83) ... that would be the end of all these concerns cause in case it would break, wouldn't damage the engine
I think I'm following you, GeekVenture, but I still can't help but think that the safest way to reinstall is to first put the drain plug back (and tighten) and then reinstall the screen/side cover. I say that because it seems there may be variation on drain bolt length (based on Daft's 610) and I'd hate for that screen end to be settled as deep as possible into the cavity and then interfere with the drain plug rising up and into it (if one were to have a longer drain bolt- again mine seemed to not enter into that space at all.) I, too, wish it was plastic. I'm not due to change my oil for a while, but the next time I do I'll be taking the side cover off to check it as it's been a long time. All of this talking about it has me nervous. Next time it's out I think I'll leave it out. BTW- I've had that side cover off countless times and have never put on a new gasket- still re-using the original w/out leaks (man I hope I'm not jinxing it now!)
We can only assume the 630's all have the same shorter bolt unless they use a thinner washer as mention previously. I wonder how viable the thinner washer theory is? ie. I wonder if the 630's bolt will actually come in contact with the filter if you leave the washer out completely? I'll be curious to see your inside cover when you get to that oil change. As for that gasket...it's seemed like it was well designed to be reused many times.
You bet. I’ll post pics when I change the oil again. I’ll also take my drain bolt and screw it all of the way into my old/empty engine casing, and post pics of that also so that we can all see...from the inside...how far the 630 stock drain plug really goes.
Put me down as another catastrophic failure becaue of this issue. I have the exact same problem as the OP. After pulling the right side cover and inspecting the mesh filter, low and behold the end is missing. I replaced my clutch hub spring doo-dads some time ago. it's definitly the end of the filter that gone through the engine. I haven't fully decided what I am going to do yet. IF I can source another TE630 engine I will replace the blown engine. I am also looking at the possibility of fitting another engine entirely (I wouldn't even consier this option if I didn't have a good friend locally who has done this kind of swap several times to various bikes, and will be able to offer guidance, advice and help......if I do this I will create a build thread....probably over on ADVrider). Last option will be to part it out, if so I will let you know here, I have a lot of nice parts (original and aftermarket). This was my 'no expense spared' bike, don't ping me yet though I'll advertize the parts if it comes to that..
I hope it works out for you and I'm sorry for your troubles I'd be curious what you could get a new engine for if you were to contact SWM in Italy? I'm not sure if this still holds true, but they bought the IP on all the Husky/BMW designs and are still producing them under SWM motorcycles.
