1. 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

Check your rear suspension

Discussion in '4 Stroke' started by Allan Briscoe, Feb 27, 2012.

  1. Allan Briscoe Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Adelaide South Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE310R 2013 FE250 2019
    Other Motorcycles:
    DT250D Yz125K IT 250 J
    Yes I thought about doing as the 449 has the grease nipple so I will look into that next time I pull it down. Would be good to see if someone knows thread they could add a link to it.
  2. kiwitxc Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    New Zealand
    I've seen grease nipples done, but I've also seen them torn off as well.

    I had one bolt that was starting to rust after 30 hours with very recently sized bearings, new bearings & seals & it's been sweet, though up to 60 hours now, so time for a checkout :).

    I'm a pretty big fan of Bel Ray grease, that stuff is magic.
  3. AndrewS Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2015 FE350s 2013 TE310R
    Other Motorcycles:
    2009 TE250 (sold)
  4. Slowpoke Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Southern Ontario
    Keep in mind, that procedure was done on an older frame/chasssis bike(07 TE250) The new frames use a completely different setup. It's something I've thought about doing, but just haven't got around to it yet. The best approach would likely be to drill the rocker & dogbone pivot bolts and install zerks in the end of the bolts. As for the shock pivot, it would likely need to be done similar to the method I did before.
    The swingarm pivots could be done the same way as well.
  5. HUSKYnXJnWI Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Central Wisconsin, USA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    09TE450
    And the 08-10 models the linkage and swing arm are VERY easy to disassemble (if well maintained) it does not take too long to have the everything out, regrease, and put back in place. Ultimately, for me I feel confident seeing the condition of things and knowing its greased properly. Zerks could assist in that for sure- but I'd still want to disassemble at some point- and you'd still want to grease the swingarm bearings.... not worth the trouble of installing zerks for me. I think they did a great job in the thread for anyone who wants to go that route though...
  6. Allan Briscoe Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Adelaide South Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE310R 2013 FE250 2019
    Other Motorcycles:
    DT250D Yz125K IT 250 J
    Got the rear shock back today the niose was coming from the soft damping ball valve and spring they are held in place by a small nut and this had come undone and allowed the ball and spring to float up and down inside the body. All fixed and a shock service at the same time so I will see how the back feels on the weekend when I go for a ride. The guys at Hoey Racing in Adelaide do a good job. That is if i get the swing arm back from getting the broken bolt out for the chain adjuster. I also agree the grease nipple will work but its not that big a job to pull the back down and that way you get a good look at all the seals and bearing as well. Thats what sheds nights are for working on your bike.
    duggoey likes this.
  7. MorganD Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Sweden
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    FE501 17&19&24,TE310R 13&14,TE250 10
    Is there a secret message in this :D
    K5PL5, Indorider and duggoey like this.
  8. Indorider Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Bojonegoro, East Java Indonesia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2010 TE 250
    Other Motorcycles:
    Yamaha TZM, Suzuki RGR (2 smokers)
    Great posting. Been thinking about tearing mine down for a full check and you just convinced me that the time is now!
  9. MattS Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Atascadero, CA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2005 TC510
    Other Motorcycles:
    2016 KTM 350 XCFW
    I disassembled the linkage when my bike was new and noticed the greasing seemed light from the factory. Also did the steering head bearings as the same time. Not much trouble and much easier to maintain well-greased bearings than dry ones. +1 on the Bel Ray waterproof grease - been using it for years with excellent results.
  10. Picklito Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Washington
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    430, 430, 430, ,400, 175
    Other Motorcycles:
    KTM250xc, KTM500mx, KTM440exc
    I put grease fittings in my 09 TE450 and it's been holding up well.
  11. JasonfromMN Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    MN
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    None right now :(
    Other Motorcycles:
    2013 Yamaha FZ6R
    Theirs a good change the sucking sound is coming from your shock from old foamed up oil. The shock breaks in like a motor and forks and Oil should be replaced every so often.

    I do the wd-40 trick with wd-40 or silicone spray as well and think it contributes to healthier linkage and bearings at my regrease intervals.

    I regrease the linkage and swing arm once a year(swingarm less depending on how much it go ridden), drop the dog bone and and do the shock one an extra time about mid season. I do the steering every 2 years. Really it depends on what it all looks like when you take it apart- for how long you should go between intervals.

    Once you do it twice it becomes so easy that as long as you have a clean bike to start with dropping the linkage and doing all the pivots(with the exception of the swing arm) is easily under one hour job.
  12. Slowpoke Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Southern Ontario
    Did you install them in the body of the rocker, or in the bolts? Or both? pics?
  13. Slowpoke Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Southern Ontario
    I packed my steering head bearings at new & thought I could go every 2 years on my TXC. But, the top bearing seized up right after the end of last season from water getting in there- right at the end of 2 full seasons. It needed to be addressed in the summer(about 1.5 years). There was still lots of grease around the bearing, but it allowed the water to sit in & around the rollers, rusting them and the races. Bottom one was fine. There's now a grease fitting on the steering head and a piece of foam pipe insulation inside to take up airspace.
  14. Pedec Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Sask.Canada
    Just did my steering head bearings last month on my 2008 cr144 and I never greased them since new. Bike has around 200 hours with lots of wet riding and has been washed 40-50 times, guess I got lucky. Funny thing is the bearings seemed fine when I put bike away in Nov for winter but when I went to move it in Feb they had seized just sitting. There was lots of grease in bearings but races where rusty and rough and bearings were just wore out.
  15. cjard Husqvarna
    C Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2009 TE310
    The dealer I bought my 09 TE off fitted some grease nipples to mine before he sold it me. i'll take a picture when it gets light and post it up.. he said the one on the bottom of the shocker cannot be nippled this way and still requires disassembly
  16. buttstock Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    NorthWet Oregun
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2013 Husky Strada
    Other Motorcycles:
    2014 GasGas 300XC, 2002 Rokon
    I know everybody has their favorite grease, but you might to try this. It's always worked very well for me. Take a tub of Honda grease and a tube of Honda assembly lube and mix it together. You'll end up with this putrid looking stuff. But it will work in suspension bearings and suspension joints. And for those of us who do not grease are suspension enough, I've seen it last over a year. I know, it's always sunny and 75 degrees here in NorthWet Oregon. Gramps
  17. duggoey Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    NSW, Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2010 TE 310
    Other Motorcycles:
    KTM 690, Yamaha WR200, FGS650(800cc)
    Pulled mine apart today. Bike Has ~4700km 90% trail/10% light road use only - no racing. After what I've heard it isnt suprising that 3/4 bearings are shagged, the other one will be replaced anyway. The images show the parts before thorough cleaning but just after a petrol bath.

    An overall view of the bits. The rusty dirty looking pieces in the middle are/were rollers..
    04042012953.jpg

    This image is an example of what we technically term "buggered". It fell apart when the linkage was removed
    04042012955.jpg

    04042012957.jpg
    This one didn't fall apart, but I will replace it anyway.

    How much does each one cost from a dealer?
  18. robertk61 Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Melbourne, Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    09 WR250
    Just take the cages and seals to a big bearing place, MUCH cheaper, but they probably won't have the centres/bushes, just order them from Halls in the US, about half price of what you will get here, OR get an all balls kit? I replaced the shock bearing on mine for about $8 ( and got the bush from Halls for about $10)
  19. duggoey Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    NSW, Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2010 TE 310
    Other Motorcycles:
    KTM 690, Yamaha WR200, FGS650(800cc)
    I should have read your post before going to the dealer. They wanted over $15/ bearing, and even more for the sealing ring! I already put an all balls kit on order $200!! Very expensive considering the only broken part was the bearings. All of the spacers/bushings were OK, but I suppose it will be good to start with a fresh kit and keep it maintained.

    If I didnt pull it apart to check all would have been well and I would have been riding for 4 days straight over the easter break!
  20. Indorider Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Bojonegoro, East Java Indonesia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2010 TE 250
    Other Motorcycles:
    Yamaha TZM, Suzuki RGR (2 smokers)
    I would post a picture but yours pretty much describes what mine looked like! I found all of the bearings locally except for the only one that is a different size (and most likely to go bad first) which is the one for the shock. The wider bearing fits but the seals won't go in flush so I wrapped the entire end of the shock and link tightly with an old tube until i receive the proper bearing.